V019

The Wheeler Dairy Killings

Legend of the Capra Monster

Words by Chris Nelson | Illustrations by Dylan Fowler


Directed by Ben Giese & Chris Nelson | Cinematography by David Chang & Daniel Fickle | Edit by Daniel Fickle

 

The boy searched his father’s eyes for a familiar anything but found nothing, and he strained to remember the eyes he had seen and known that same morning, but he remembered nothing. The man sat in an unblinking daze as his eyes followed the cold bottle of beer spinning on the lazy Susan, set just off-center and sweating in the summer midnight, and as the dad reached for the bottle, the boy studied the scars on his father’s hands. The boy remembered the stories that his dad had told about how he had gotten them, and he realized those were probably lies, too. 

The next morning the police would pull the bodies of his three friends from the mangled wreckage of Pete Norman’s Mustang, and they’d say it was a drunk-driving crash, and no one would question it as the truth. The town would weep at candlelit vigils, and the local newspapers would publish tragic stories about the teenage lives lost too young, but the boy would know the truth: His best friend and the girl he loved were torn to pieces by a campfire ghost story, and he lied because he was told to do so.

The boy caught his reflection in the kitchen window but didn’t recognize himself, with two black eyes, a broken nose, and a blood-soaked bandage wrapped around his neck. The sight turned his stomach to knots, and when he closed his eyes, he saw her and the flayed skin on her bloody face, and he saw the eerily human eyes of the godless creature that had killed her.

 
 
 

The boy started to cry, and his father slammed his beer bottle against the table and stood up, and then he stumbled into the living room, clicked on the television, and spun the top from a crystal whiskey bottle. The boy trembled as he asked, “What are you going to tell Mom?” and his father sighed, turned off the television, and walked back into the kitchen. The man took a long, slow pull of whiskey before he crouched down next to his boy, who cowered as his father tried to caress his face. The man spoke in softly slurred whispers:

“Don’t worry about your mom, because she knows nothing about it, and she never will. All these years I lied to her because it was my duty to my country, and you’ll lie to her because it’s your duty, too. I was a kid like you when this all started, and I was naïve and didn’t know what I was getting myself into, and I regret so much, and I committed evils that cannot be forgiven, but I never had a choice, and now neither do you. What you saw can’t be unseen, and you shouldn’t be alive, but you are because I love you, and I would give anything for you. 

“If you don’t trust me, I understand that, but listen to what I’m saying and know it’s the truth. My son, I so badly wish none of this had happened, and that you had gone with your mother and sister and me to the lake, and we had watched the fireworks like we always do. Your mother and your sister will be home soon, and we’ll tell them the stories we have to, and they’ll tell you how much they love you. I promise that they’d thank you for doing what you’re doing, but you can never say anything to them or anyone else, Billy. Everything will be OK, I swear it to you, but you can never say anything about what happened tonight. Do you understand me, son?”

It was July 4, 1992, but the morning hadn’t started like every other Fourth of July morning before it, because 18-year-old Billy Wick stayed home from the annual family trip to Lake Pueblo so he could ride dirt bikes with his best friend Kyle Morgan, who was moving away from their small mountain town in Colorado to start summer school classes at Brown University. When Billy asked his dad for permission to stay back, the old man smiled and said, “Your mother will shit a brick, but if you promise that you won’t have a party at the house or go looking for trouble, we’re good.”

Billy’s friends always said how lucky he was to have a dad like his, and Billy knew it. Every morning Billy’s dad rode to the military base on a Panhead chopper that he built when he was about Billy’s age and had returned home from Vietnam, and every night when he came home he danced with Billy’s mom in the kitchen as she finished cooking dinner. His dad had dozens of tattoos, all faded beyond recognition, and he wore his long, brown hair in a tight bun on the back of his head and refused to cut it, no matter what his superior officers said.

Billy loved and admired his dad more than anyone, because his dad was the smartest, funniest, most caring human he had ever met, and he was nothing like the other military dads that Billy knew. He taught Billy how to ride motorcycles, do yoga, and shoot guns, and once a week he read to Billy and his little sister from any book they chose, from speeches by Malcolm X to step-by-step instructions from a Clymer manual.

Billy stood in the driveway and waved goodbye to his family as the Wicks’ Buick Roadmaster backed into the street, and Billy’s dad rolled down his window and hollered, “Be good!” When the wagon disappeared from view, Billy ran back inside, pulled on his riding boots, and stole four bottles of beer from the fridge, and he wrapped them in a T-shirt and shoved them into his backpack along with a water bottle full of fuel, some fireworks, and a small bag of crab weed that he’d found on the floor at Pete Norman’s graduation party.  

Billy opened the garage door and threw a leg over his Yamaha DT-1, and then a brand-new, 5.0-liter Mustang convertible—white over cream with a white top, exactly like the one from Vanilla Ice’s music video—stopped at the foot of his driveway. Pete Norman revved the piss out of the V-8 and turned his bleached-blond head toward Billy and said, “Don’t you know motorcycles are for douchebags?” The car was a graduation gift from Pete Norman’s dad, who owned a local Ford dealership, and there were still flecks of paint on the windshield where his parents had written, “Congratulations, Class of ’92!” 

Billy hated Pete, and the car didn’t much impress him, either, but it bothered Billy greatly that both Pete and the car seemed to impress Caitlin Newman, the perfect girl next door who had moved in six years ago and spent every day with Billy and Kyle until high school started; she snared the attention of the senior boys, and it changed everything. Billy always wanted Caitlin, but the only interest she ever showed in Billy was when she kissed him at Pete’s graduation party, but the morning after she woke up next to Pete, and the two had been inseparable since. “Why aren’t you on your way to the lake?” Caitlin asked as she opened the passenger door. Billy dropped his weight onto the Yamaha’s kickstarter and said, “I’m going to be late to see Kyle,” and tore off across the Newmans’ front lawn.

When Billy arrived at the trailhead, Kyle was sitting next to his bike, smoking a cigarette and writing in his pocket notebook, blissfully unaware of how long he’d been waiting. He was overjoyed to see his friend, and even more so when Billy proudly showed off the beers that he had stolen, and Kyle suggested that they toast to their ride, so they did and chugged two beers.

In a haze of blue smoke, the boys rode wild and free along the only trails that either of them had ever known. They raced at full throttle through the trees and skinny-dipped in the creek, and they battled with bottle rockets and roman candles, and in the shadow of the other they rode deeper into the prairielands.

They stopped when they reached the rusty, overgrown school buses parked at the far edge of the old Wheeler Dairy, because their fuel tanks were dry, and a few miles down the road there was a gas station. They stripped off their sweat-heavy gear and sat in the grass, and they cracked their warm beers and watched the colors of evening burn orange. Kyle looked across the pasture at the dairy and said, “How the hell can anyone believe a killer military monster lives in that shithole?” and Billy laughed.

He remembered when his dad first told him about the Capra Man, an eight-foot-tall, half-man, half-goat hybrid that lived beneath the dairy. Billy was nine years old when he woke up in bed and saw his old man standing over him, swaying like a buoy in the swell. His dad pulled back the sheets and said to get up and join him in the garage, and the boy sat on his father’s workbench while his father paced from wall to wall and told his son about Adam Ryans, who in 1923 bought the dairy and spent millions of dollars in renovations, but only three years later he went belly up after his prize bull was found dead with a knot of barbed wire in its stomach.

A few years later, Ryans had mysteriously died during a trip overseas, and rumors spread that he was a secret agent for the Office of Strategic Services, which became the Central Intelligence Agency, and that beneath the Wheeler Dairy he had built a secret laboratory where he was creating super soldiers by splicing animal genomes into human DNA. He said the experiment went awry, and Ryans destroyed three of the four super soldiers that he had created, but the last humanoid escaped.

After that night, Billy always knew when his father had had too much to drink, because he spouted off other sci-fi theories about the dairy, like that there were teleportation devices hidden under the milking machines, or there were state-of-the-art workshops building highly classified, covert spy planes, or that there were snipers in the hills who shot rock salt at trespassers. Billy indulged his father’s occasional binge drinking and his vibrant paranoia, but Billy knew the Capra Man wasn’t real, because the summer before high school he had snuck into the dairy’s two-story milk house with Caitlin and Kyle, and they saw no military men or mad scientists or monsters.

A twig snapped in the trees behind Billy and Kyle, and then the bushes rustled and something growled deep and low and fierce. The boys jumped to their feet, and Kyle held his bottle by the neck and shattered the bottom half against one of the buses just as Caitlin poked her head out from the brush and said, “Boo!” She laughed hysterically until Pete walked up behind her and kissed her on the neck and ran his fingers up her skirt. She stopped laughing and pushed his hand away, and asked if the boys had more beers, because Pete only had vodka.

The boys said they didn’t, but she told them to stay anyway, despite Pete’s protests, and when they finished their beers and the half-empty bottle of vodka, Caitlin pouted and whined for more booze. Billy reached into his backpack to grab his baggie of weed, but before he could Pete took out a blunt, lit it, and passed it to Caitlin. She closed her eyes as she filled her lungs with smoke, and Billy stared at her milky legs and her plump red lips, and as she exhaled and slowly opened her eyes, she looked at Billy, and then past him to the dairy, and she said, “Let’s go visit that monster.” 

Kyle groaned and protested and suggested that they go back to Billy’s to drink more of his dad’s beer, but before he finished Caitlin had hopped up and pranced across the emerald field toward the milk house, the studs on her leather jacket reflecting golden in the last minutes of daylight. A few seconds later, Pete sprinted across the grass like a bull in heat, and he grabbed Caitlin just as she reached the door, and she squealed in delight as the two of them disappeared inside. Billy stood up and took a step, but Kyle grabbed his hand and said, “I’m not sure who Caitlin is when she’s with Pete, but the fact is she’s with Pete, so let it go, and let’s go home.”

Billy wanted to listen to his friend, but he was terrified what Caitlin might think of him if he didn’t follow, so he shook off Kyle and hugged the tree line toward the dairy, and Kyle sighed and followed. As Billy pulled open the big metal door, Kyle joked, “If this really is a secret military base, they shouldn’t leave the back door unlocked.”

The failing light cast long, dark shadows across the white tile floors and the water-stained walls of the two-story milk house. It was a big building, five rooms deep with a huge tile staircase that connected the main room to the upstairs. It was unkempt and decaying, with crushed beer cans scattered about the rooms and poorly spray-painted pentagrams and sulfur crosses scrawled across the windows and plaster. In a few of the upstairs rooms the floors had rotted away completely, and in the far corner of the back room there was a gaping hole in the floor, where other kids swore they had seen the monster, but there was nothing.

Caitlin and Pete were laughing in an upstairs room. Kyle sat himself on a ledge, lit a cigarette, and took out his notebook, and Billy started up the staircase, and when he reached the landing, he pretended not to hear her moans. He tiptoed through the hallway and peeked inside rooms until he saw Pete’s pale white ass, and Caitlin bent over with her hands pressed against the wall.

Billy felt sick. He wanted to turn and leave, but his feet wouldn’t move. He wanted to scream, to stop them, but instead he leaned against the wall and said nothing, adrift in his imagination as he listened to her hurried breaths and the slaps of skin. A minute later Pete let out a long, slow groan, and Caitlin laughed, “Oh, it’s OK, premature Petey.”

Pete turned bright red and punched the wall behind Caitlin, and he fumbled to pull up his pants as he raged out of the room. Billy quickly ducked into the adjacent room as Pete stormed by and stamped down the staircase, muttering obscenities and kicking empty beer cans as he disappeared into the back of the milk house. Kyle yelled up, “Can we please leave now?”

Billy peeked out of his room as Caitlin walked out of hers, and as she adjusted her skirt, she smirked and said, “Maybe you should’ve joined us and finished what you started when you kissed me at Pete’s party.” Billy stammered to apologize, ashamed of himself and embarrassed, but when he opened his mouth, he said, “You’re the one who came on to me, Caitlin.”

She giggled and cocked her head to the side, and said, “Is that how it happened?” She slowly started toward Billy, and she put one hand against the boy’s chest and ran her other hand through his hair, and she said, “I saw into your heart, Billy, and for so long I hoped you’d grow a pair and tell me what you felt, or make a move, but you didn’t, so I did, and guess what? You were still too scared to do anything about it, because you’re a scared little boy, lusting after me like all of the other scared little boys, and none of you know how you feel, and none of you actually care about me.”

Billy felt broken. He wanted to show Caitlin that he really cared for her and prove to her that he wasn’t a scared little boy, so he gripped her by the shoulders and kissed her on the lips, and Caitlin kissed him back and pulled him in tighter. Billy turned savage for her love and kissed wildly, and he tasted the salt of her sweat and felt her breasts pressed against his fast-beating heart, and he didn’t hear the footsteps rushing up the staircase.

Pete cinched Billy around the throat and pulled him off Caitlin, and then he punched Billy between the eyes, and when Billy dropped to the floor, Pete kicked him in the ribs, over and over again. Caitlin screamed for Pete to stop, and when she dug her long nails into his thick neck, he swung around and backhanded her, and she collapsed on the floor. Pete raised a foot to stomp down on Billy’s throat, but before he could, Kyle ran down the hallway and shoved Pete, who stumbled backwards and tripped over a door jam and fell into a room where the floor had rotted away. Pete dropped almost 20 feet and hit the white tile floor with a sharp, wet smack, and his blood quickly spread through the grout.

An uncomfortable dark settled inside the milk house as Kyle sprinted toward the staircase and yelled, “Get the fuck up, Billy, we need to help him!” Billy sat up slowly, and when he looked over at Caitlin, she was sobbing uncontrollably with her legs tucked against her chest, and her head hid between her knees. Billy crawled over to her and put his hand on hers, and when she looked at him, he saw the huge red handprint painted across her perfect, blotchy face.

Then Kyle screamed, and when Caitlin and Billy looked over the edge of the rotted floor they saw him standing at the foot of the staircase, and they saw a long, bloody drag mark that trailed across the tile to a corner of the room, and there sat a giant, spindly creature with coarse black hair, and in its yellow claws it cradled Pete’s lifeless body. In that moment Billy realized that the stories his dad told were true, and the Capra Monster was real.

It sat hunched forward with its shoulders slouched low and held Pete like a doll. It had long bone horns that curled and twisted up like ivy, and a head the size of a horse’s, with a long, thin, wrinkled snout covered in scars. Its hooved legs were as long and as bony as its arms, and it had the barrel chest of an ape and the eyes of a tortured man.

“We need help!” Kyle yelled as he sprinted toward the front door. The Capra Man let out a horrible howl and stood tall and terrifying, and it reached out and grabbed Kyle. The creature whipped the boy against the metal door, and then slammed his limp body against the floor, and then the monster fell quiet and stood above the body, frozen until Caitlin screamed. When the monster saw Billy and Caitlin, it thrashed and wailed, and then it picked up the boys’ bodies, put one under each arm, and ran toward the back of the milk house and disappeared into the hole in the floor.

Caitlin covered her mouth with her hands, and tears ran over her white knuckles, and Billy was drowning in fear, too, but he knew he needed to get help if he wanted to save his best friend.

Billy tugged on Caitlin’s arm and tried to stand her up, but she yelped and pulled away from him. Billy bent over and looked her dead in the eye and said, “I can get us out of this,” and he laced his fingers with her, and he pulled her to her feet.

They tiptoed through the hallway and stopped after each step down the staircase, listening for the Capra Man, but they heard nothing. They moved deliberately and quickly, and as they set foot on the first floor Billy felt a twinge of hope, but then Caitlin ran for the door. As she grabbed the handle and pulled it open, a deafening wail boomed through the walls, and the monster came bursting out from the black, and pounced through the rooms of the milk house and grabbed the girl. For a moment it held her softly and studied her sweetly, but then it shrieked and dropped Caitlin to the ground and began clawing at her body like a dog digging a hole in dirt.

Her fingernails scraped against the tiles as she tried to escape, and she screamed for Billy to help, but the boy didn’t move, because the sight of her terrified him: the gashes across her chest, the skin hanging from her arms, the eye ripped from its socket. She screamed at him again, and he cried out, “I’m sorry,” and he ran through the front door.

He ran across the overgrown field, and he ran past the buses and jumped on his motorcycle, and as he did, he felt a sharp pain in his neck. He fell into the grass, and he heard heavy footsteps running toward him, and voices, and then everything went dark. 

When the boy opened his eyes he thought he glimpsed her, alive and unmarred, but then the small concrete room he was in started spinning, and he retched and nearly fell off the side of his cot, but his father was there to catch him. The old man took deep, fast breaths and shook his son to attention, and he told the boy they only had a few minutes to themselves, and that his son needed to listen well if he wanted to leave that place alive.

He told Billy that he had been shot with a tranquilizer dart, and the creature he saw was the Capra Man, and the Wheeler Dairy was a top-secret underground military base, and the Capra Man was an experimental super soldier who had escaped after World War II but was recaptured in the late ’80s, and the military had held him in a cell beneath the milk house until tonight, when it broke free and was subsequently shot dead by soldiers.

The father didn’t look at Billy as he told the boy that Caitlin, Pete, and Kyle were gone, and that the people he worked for had intentions of killing Billy because of what he knew. He told Billy that he had worked out a deal for the boy’s life, but it meant Billy had to keep tonight a secret and lie about how his friends had died, and he begged his son to do what they asked.

Billy felt nauseated again, and he squeezed his dad’s hand and said, “I don’t know who you are.” His father looked at him with tear-filled eyes, and then the door to the room opened. A pot-bellied man in dark sunglasses, khaki shorts, and a Hawaiian shirt walked into the room, and when he did, Billy’s father stood up and saluted. “Sir,” he said, and then he dropped his hand and whimpered, “Please, Steve, it’s my boy...”

The man hushed the boy’s father and told him he needed a few minutes alone with Billy. The boy pleaded for his father to stay, but the old man assured him everything would be OK if he listened and answered any questions asked as honestly as he could. The father kissed his son on the forehead and walked out of the room, and a guard shut the door.

The man used his tongue to move a heavily chewed cigar from one corner of his mouth to the other, and then he grabbed a small metal chair from the corner of the room and slowly dragged it across the concrete floor. He grunted as he sat down, and he unbuttoned his shorts and pushed out his gut, and he said, “Son, you are one lucky boy.” 

The man spoke of “national pride” and “civic duty” and “America’s unflinching might and moral fortitude,” and he made clear the lengths to which he would go to protect the country he served. He said Billy and his entire family were dead if he didn’t do exactly as told, and the man told him to listen and listen well, but the boy couldn’t listen, because the boy wanted death, because he knew it was all his fault.

He should have gone to the lake, or gone home when Kyle wanted to, or ignored the shameful curiosity that lured him upstairs, or done anything to save any one of them from horrible deaths, but he didn’t. He ran away, and he was captured by the corrupt bastards who gave birth to an abomination—a living, breathing weapon, the devil stolen from hell —and those men had the power and influence to keep safe their sinister secrets, and one of those men was his father.

The man grabbed Billy by his hair and pulled his head backward and spit tobacco in the boy’s face as he yelled, “You listening, boy?!” and the boy nodded. He wanted to shout in the man’s pig face, because doing so would undoubtedly bring an end to his suffering, but he didn’t, because of his mom and his sister and what these men would do to them.

The man said, “I want you to understand exactly why you’re leaving this place alive tonight, and I want you to know exactly who your father is, because he is risking everything to save your life...he doesn’t know how to not be a hero, I guess. Without him I’m not sure we would’ve won the war in Vietnam.

“I met him as a snot-nosed grunt younger than you are now, hungry to kill for his country, and I turned him into a war god. I thought he was doping when he proposed the Wandering Soul operation, but I watched from the helicopter as whole villages fled from their homes, terrified by the voices speaking in their native tongue, telling the Viet Cong to desert the army to ‘save their souls’...the man is a poet. He knew how to get under that yellow skin, and the psychological combat tactics he developed are still being used by the military today.

“If your dad wasn’t your dad, you’d be dead, but he is your dad, and he’s a dear friend of mine whom I trust, and he is endangering his own life and the lives of your mother and your sister for you, and it will all be for naught if you can’t keep your fucking mouth shut about what happened here tonight. He says you can because you’re a good boy, and you love your country, but I’m not so sure. Is he right about that, Billy?”

The boy didn’t move, so the man slapped him and told him to speak up, and the boy said, “Yes, sir.” The man reached into his pocket and pulled out a crumpled handkerchief to wipe the sweat from his brow, and he said, “Son, tonight you really are the luckiest boy in America.

“This country is the greatest in the world because of our solidarity in moments like this, when we choose to move forward together and keep one another safe. It’s really too bad about your friends, but I promise we’ll take care of them best we can, and it’s a tragedy that the asset broke free from its confinement, but, son, sometimes shit like this happens. Old Capra is usually a big softie, too, but maybe the fireworks spooked him, like they do dogs, and he got upset, broke loose, and raised hell, and now he has himself hid somewhere in the mountains.”

Billy asked, “I thought you shot and killed it?” and the man smiled and said, “You can’t shoot something that doesn’t exist, can you?” and then he knocked on the door and called for a guard. As the man walked out of the room, he turned back to the boy and said, “We’ll keep an eye on you, so make your country proud, son.”

Cartel Land

Near Death in Mexico

Words & photography by Justin Chatwin


I act for a living and ride motorcycles in my spare time. And I have a lot of spare time. About five years ago, I had a dip in my feature film career that I blamed on the failure of a not-so-great movie that I did, called Dragonball Evolution. It was basically a live-action adaptation of an anime ninja cartoon series. I was cast to play the world’s greatest ninja, with massive dippity-do hair spikes, and an orange kimono dress. Originally, I thought the character was supposed to be for a small Asian boy, however, 20th Century Studios thought I fit the role perfectly – and so I jumped on a plane to shoot it in Durango, Mexico. That was back in 2005.

In 2015 I decided to take a motorcycle trip down to South America with my adventure buddy Nik. Nik started a delinquent clothing company out of Vancouver called Lords of Gastown. So, Nik and a few of his motley crew showed up at my home in Venice, California, and we took off down the Baja Peninsula.  When we boarded the ferry in La Paz, we had a lot of the Sinaloa locals turning their heads to look at us. The Lords of Gastown looked like the spawn of Nikki Sixx, Dennis Rodman and Rob Zombie, and their lives were just as complicated as their attire. One guy’s girlfriend was days away from giving birth; another guy was sleeping with that guy’s girlfriend; and the first guy was oblivious to what was going on. The third guy hated both of those two guys.  Needless to say, a lovely bunch. Riding with these guys all came back to bite me in the ass when one of them became imprisoned in Honduras.

That night they went through two cases of Tecate on the top deck of the ferry, along with all the pan-American semitruck drivers.  When the boat docked in Mazatlan, the circus entered into new territory: Sinaloa, Mexico, home to a lot of terrifying stories that you may see on Netflix cartel documentaries. 

We noticed a mechanical failure with one of the newer Harley-Davidsons, ironically, and so we rode into town to look for help.  A local bike gang noticed our custom Sportster dirtsters and came over to see what we were about.  Let’s call the leader Big Bobby. Big Bobby was Mexican but spoke perfect English. “Why you guys look like satanic lumberjacks?”  No one knew how to respond.  “Forget it, man. Come have a beer with us.”  Like I said, we were wary of the locals. But I’m sure they were wary of us, as well. 

 

We decided to throw caution to the wind, and grabbed a case of Pacifico and some carnitas. After all, we needed a local motorcycle mechanic.  No one else in Big Bobby’s gang spoke English, so we decided to communicate in gestures.  Everyone was thumbs-upping each others’ motorcycles, and as smiles began to form, I relaxed. But I’m always a skeptic.  

The next morning, the bike was magically fixed.  We tried to offer money, but Big Bobby wouldn’t accept. On top of that, they offered to ride us out of town a few hours. 

I read on the news that morning that the cartel had murdered some tourists in the same direction we were heading. So we decided to skip the coast and head inland toward Durango on the Devil’s Backbone.  

Within an hour, Satan popped my tire, but luckily Big Bobby knew someone in a village 200 feet away. Bobby knew everyone. Again, I tried to offer money for the tire repair, and again they declined. I’ve never been able to successfully pay for a tire repair in Baja. Isn’t that incredible? Free every time. 

The afternoon was getting late, and Big Bobby turned back to Mazatlan and wished us well. We were now on our own, heading up into the mountains. Since we were running out of daylight, we hopped onto the newly constructed Highway 40D. It has 135 bridges (one of them being the highest suspension bridge in the Americas) and 62 tunnels. This project must have cost a small fortune, and I was curious – where did that money came from?

It got dark. And cold.  December at 6,000 feet made us stop every 45 minutes to warm our hands roadside by fires lit in old oil barrels. Eventually I got spun around and realized I was lost with no cellular service.  I could see that my buddies were looking tired, but I didn’t want them to know that I didn’t quite know the road.  So, I kept pushing forward as the pavement turned to dirt, and I really didn’t see anything that resembled a city nearby.

It felt like the start of a horror flick. Right when I was thinking that, a vehicle flicked on its high beams behind us.  We were riding pretty fast, which meant he was driving pretty fast, as well.  Naturally, I slowed down a bit to see if he wanted to pass, but it seemed like he just wanted to continue to high-beam us.  A few minutes felt like a few hours when he finally came roaring past us, kicking dust all over us. A black Suburban in poor Mexico.  He didn’t keep going, but actually slowed down. He was toying with us. My heart rate was up and we were in the middle of nowhere.  At least I had four guys behind me. 

 

The black SUV slammed on his brakes, and so did we.  Everyone just stood still.  We really didn’t know what to do, or what they wanted.  

After what felt like an eternity, a tinted window rolled down, and a hand beckoned me to walk to the SUV. I looked back at my friends, whose faces were mirroring the same emotions I had. 

The worst thing here would be to flee and get in some high-speed chase down a dirt road on Harley Sportsters at night. So, I got off my bike and walked very slowly over to the SUV. I was sweating now. No longer cold. Maybe this Simpson helmet would protect me from the gunshot if I were to take a bullet to the head.  Maybe I’d only be partially brain damaged, or I could buy them out.  I had $400 in my motorcycle boot. 

When I arrived at the vehicle, the window was rolled down a couple of inches. I could see five men inside. Bearded men. Mexican men.  Wearing all black. Then I saw it. Written on the patch of his leather vest was the group name that I had seen in one of the cartel documentaries that I had recently watched. Why I had ever watched that movie before this trip, I will never know.  

They stared at me. I stared at them. 

“What’s your name, man?” he said in English. 

“Uhhh…Justin,” I replied, hoping my Canadian naiveté would charm them. 

Then he looked closer at me. “Chatwin. Justin Chatwin?” I had my helmet and goggles on. How the hell did he know my name? I nodded. 

He kicked open the door and grabbed me. But in a bear hug.  He was beaming. 

“No shit, man. I haven’t seen you in 10 years, man.  I was the medic on Dragonball.  It’s so good to see you, brother. Bobby told us you were coming, and we’ve been waiting for you guys all day.”

“Oh shit oh shit wow! Wow. Dragonball. Bobby! I mean wow. Fucking great to see you, man!”

 

I shook the other guys’ hands and called my buddies over as the blood began to come back into my head. 

The patch on his vest read “presidente” and the other patch read the word I saw in that documentary.  “Well, it’s cold, no?” he said. “Let’s get you guys some food and housing.”  A couple of the guys from the SUV pulled their Harleys magically out of nearby bushes and led us over the mountain and into the familiar city of Durango.  

My buddies all gave me that look you give when you first take a psychedelic and begin to see faces. I guess we were rolling with it.  I mean, curiosity never really did kill the cat, right?

That night, we got VIP at the local discotheque; we ate some of the best food we’ve ever had; and we were put up in an excellent hotel. One of their prospects even watched our Harleys till the morning, when they also brought us out for breakfast.  They told us stories of their antics and adventures and how they give back to the less fortunate. A real Robin Hood and his Merry Men story.  They have to live like this because the government won’t help anyone. Maybe that’s how the Mexican government was able to build that wicked highway we rode in on?  

Who really knows if these were bad dudes or just really big Dragonball fans. Regardless, if this guy really was the president of this group of Merry Men, he really had worked his way up the line from a set medic to the King of the Outlaws.  And I respect that type of work ethic. A true American!

So, in the end, I don’t think Dragonball ruined my career. I think it may have saved my life.

Last Chance

The Alien Among Us

 

A film by Daniel Fickle

Words by Ben Giese & Daniel Fickle

Photography by Ben Ward

 

Featuring Brittany Wahl | Directed & edited by Daniel Fickle | Cinematography by David Chang | Narration by Dava | Additional photography by Joey Morian | Produced by Voca Films

There’s an alien among us. 

 

An invasion of planet Earth by an enemy that we can’t see or fully understand. Homo sapiens are incredibly intelligent beings, capable of great good – but we also have violent and tribal instincts that often create more damage than resolution. We are creatures of control, fighting an invisible enemy that simply can’t be controlled. It has abducted our thoughts and actions, and it has helped fuel unimaginable fear, division and hatred that seems to be ripping our society apart. And while we are at each other’s throats, that invisible enemy continues to infect and kill hundreds of thousands of us.

 
 
 
 

As our lives continue to thicken with complexity, simplicity has become more and more desirable. Exploring empty roads in the middle of nowhere suddenly feels euphoric and sublime. What used to be a melancholy landscape now feels more like a dream. A refreshing isolation and a relief from the chaos of our world. A place for reflection and self-discovery.

 
 
 
 
 
 

This invasion has forced us to stop and look in the mirror. It has illuminated some of the ugliest aspects of humanity. But the hope is that this can also be an opportunity for us to learn from our current mistakes and move forward in a better way. To rediscover an appreciation for all that is good in the world. The unknown can be scary, but life has always been full of mystery. Beautiful mystery. And our innate curiosity to discover the answers that lie beyond that mystery is what propels humankind forward.

 
 
 
 

This alien doesn’t seem to be leaving anytime soon, and this may be our last chance to evolve as a species and rediscover the lost art of love and understanding. Understanding that we don’t know everything, and we can’t control everything. Understanding that there is great beauty in the unknown and the mysteries of life. It’s either that or we continue down a terrifying path of violence and self-destruction. Because if we can’t figure out how to coexist on this tiny blue oasis, then the only enemy we have to worry about is ourselves. And what a waste that would be.

All or Nothing

Joven y Viejo: The Bruised & Battered Dust or Bust Goodtimes Ride of Dustin Humphrey

Words by Nathan Myers | Primary photography by Monti Smith


A film by State of Ethos | Directed by Dustin Hmphrey & Kelly Hammond

Travel photography by Dustin Humphrey | Additional photography by Woody Gooch, Tom Hawkins, Max Mandell & Harry Mark

 

The tattoos tell the story best. Tattoos and scars. He’s riddled with both. Good memories and bad decisions. A life lived fully. Dustin Humphrey pulls a vintage moto jersey on and pushes a pair of dual sport bikes into the driveway. Helmets. Gloves.

“Most of the moto gear on the market these days looks like it should be worn by a transvestite hooker in Vegas,” he says. “It’s good quality, but no one would ever wear it off the track.”

He is a man of aesthetics. From photography to film to designing motorcycles and surfboards, how it looks is how it performs. Vintage influence. Modern performance.

 

“I find myself immersed in the motocross world,” he says. “And I’ve fallen in love with it. But it’s basically exactly the way it was when I was a kid. Why hasn’t it evolved since then? The other action sports have. Just look at the surf and skate world.”

We’re in Temecula, California. For all his worldly travels, it’s a place Humphrey never imagined settling down. But as we prepare the bikes in his garage full of motorcycles, surfboards and tools, it all seems to fit. As a longtime photographer, filmmaker, and one of the founders of Deus ex Machina, Humphrey is on the cusp of his new adventure. “State of Ethos,” he calls it. So, I’ve come here to ask him about it. 

For Humphrey, this is more than just a brand. It’s his whole life story. Every bruise, break and midnight ink job reassembled into this new house of cards. He leads me to his garage and pushes this bike toward me. He still rides motorcycles, but with the damage he’s done to his body over the years, he picks his battles. These bikes are good middle ground.

“I’ve always been a storyteller,” he tells me. “But I’m not good with words. It’s better if I just show you.”

He throws his leg over the Husky 501, cringing slightly at the act, and twists the throttle. Apparently, we’re going for a ride. 

He was born in Oklahoma to parents who weren’t quite suited to each other. His wild-child mom and his God-fearing father, making a tractor pull of his childhood. His earliest memory is of sitting on an old Honda 50cc Monkey with his dad. Then riding it on his own, going over a small jump, and seeing his dad’s eyes light up with fear and elation. “I don’t know which feeling I loved more,” he recalls. “Riding the bike or seeing how happy it made my dad. Actually, I do know.”

 

Mom split to LA when he was six, dating a film director. And Dad moved, too. Everywhere at once. A traveling salesman. I ask what he sold. “Easier to ask what he didn’t sell,” Humphrey replies.

Some months he lived in Echo Park, the only white kid in his barrio. Others, he was with Dad. Sundays for church. Friday and Saturday for the tracks. Moser Valley. Ascot Raceway. And sometimes it was just construction sites and dirt roads. Fond memories.

One time in Dallas they found him out cold at the base of a big jump. Helmet split. Broken collar bone. Amnesia for days. But Dad didn’t even take him to the hospital, since the month before at another—another crash—they’d thrown him into an ambulance too quickly and it cost him a pretty penny. So, take an aspirin to it, son. Walk it off.

Back and forth he went. State to state. Parent to parent. Lost before he was ever found. But those weekend rides meant everything to him. Still do, it seems.

Dad remarried. Four more kids. Soon their expensive motorbike hobby faded from the equation. One day they sold his old bike to afford a new KX80. And every day he’d run to the garage to see the new bike that never was to arrive. That was the end of his moto days. Eventually, he picked up the basketball.

But hold on, I’ve already fallen behind. Over the years, I’ve followed Dustin down enough trails to keep up. The road here climbs the hill behind his house toward open country. I find him waiting at the ridge. Uncharacteristically reflective...or maybe just checking his phone. He rarely stops moving, caught up in the whirlwinds of his own creation. Projects. Ideas. Missions. But here at the top of the mountain, he seems calm. Below us, a vast canyon wilderness sprawls out, undeveloped as far as we can see. Nothing but trails, dirt and emptiness.

“This is where I realized I could live out here,” he says. There’s a long, winding road leading toward the valley, but instead of taking it—no, that would be too easy—Humphrey wheels the bike sideways and tears straight into an overgrown singletrack. No choice but to follow.

He was living in Texas. His father’s overcrowded, underfunded house was growing intolerable. His mom called him in Texas on a Monday, said she’d made a little money, and he could come live with her in Huntington Beach. He was there by Friday.

 

Surfing consumed his world. It was everything. He found his people hanging around the shaping bays of Robert August (the surfer best known from his travels in The Endless Summer). A community. Good people. And for that he was blessed. His friends ranged from older men to little kids, the only hierarchy being your skill on a wave. This was “Surf City,” and there were always pros around, returning from epic adventures to faraway beaches. Their stories filled his dreams.

For starters, they drove to Baja. Camping. Fishing. Off-roading. Next came a three-month stint in Costa Rica. “I almost didn’t come back from that one,” he says. “Thought I might just become one of those expat fisherman, surf bums. But something told me there was still more I needed to see and do. So, I came home and got back to work.”

He was a ferocious worker. A deckhand on fishing boats. Waiting tables. Whatever he could find. He’d work 70 days in a row just saving for the next surf trip. He forged his mom’s permission to drop out of high school. No more free rent or home-cooked meals, Humphrey was on his own now. He enrolled in Junior College to pursue a degree in marine biology. At least he could stay near the ocean. One of the courses included shooting photos of the marine mammals off the California coast, so his mom gave him her Minolta x700 SLR, and he took a night class to learn how to use it. The following semester, he enrolled exclusively in photography courses, devouring the information. Steve McCurry, Annie Leibovitz, Sebastião Salgado. He’d found his heroes. “I remember calling the school to get my grades at the end of the semester,” he says, “and when the recording said I had a 4.0, I had to hang up and call back again. Thought I had the wrong number.” 

The next big trip was Indonesia with his friends Travis Potter and Timmy and Ryan Turner. Along with two single-fins, he packed his camera, two lenses, a water housing, and all the film he could afford. He had no dreams of becoming a surf photographer. “Surf photographers had a weird rap at the time,” explains Humphrey. “I don’t want to use the word ‘creepy,’  but it just wasn’t a highly regarded position.” No, this was just a surf trip.

The first day in Bali, they paddled out at the infamous Padang Padang reef (thinking they were somewhere else) and scored a rare, overhead swell. Humphrey paddled into a solid set, pulled into the barrel and got closed out on the reef. As the next waves came pounding in, he planted his feet on the razor-sharp reef (rookie mistake) and unwittingly began his career as a surf photographer. The cuts on his feet were deep and painful, but they didn’t prevent him from swimming with his camera. So, he spent the next couple of months shooting surf and traveling with his talented friends (who went on to pro careers).

 
 

Back home, he’d need to work again just to afford to develop the film. But Timmy Turner couldn’t wait that long, so he developed the film himself and then sent the slides to Surfer Magazine. The mag ran a feature, inspired as much by the travel images as the action, and Humphrey saw the opportunity to keep traveling.

They returned to Indo the following season for an even longer trip, plunging deep into the raw adventures that fester and bloom in every corner of the archipelago’s 14,000 islands. Turner was making a film, and Humphrey’s eye for aesthetic and sense of visual narrative was critical. Wild cross-country rides. Crazy locals and crazier travelers. Feral jungle campsites. Indonesia is a steamy tapestry of human insanity, stitched together by ferries, buses and motorbikes. The travel is hard. The waves are worth it. And everything in between was exactly what Humphrey had been looking for. Unseen visions. Looming dooming. Endless stories.

 

“We loved every second of it,” Humphrey says. “Travel was everything to me.” 

He pulls back his sleeve to reveal a tattoo of Indonesia across his forearm. A map, worn and faded from time and sun.

We’ve paused in a deep thicket of brush. No view. No escape in any direction. I’m pulling cactus spines from my arm and wondering if my leg will need stitches. Humphrey seems oblivious to the absurdity of this trail. No pain, no gain.

The next trip, he didn’t even come home. Why would he? For $3,200 a year, he rented a two-story home in a quiet village in Bali, bought a new DT100, and settled down with a girl he had met in Jakarta. An emerging surf magazine called Transworld Surf had wooed him to their team with travel budgets, a new Hasselblad camera, and bags of slide film. “Just do your thing,” they told him. And true to form, Humphrey was all in. Photography was everything. 

For the next few years, he traveled the world, stretching budgets and pushing the limits in places like India, China and the Mediterranean. “I didn’t give a shit about good waves,” he admits. “I had plenty of that in Indo. For me, the surf trips were just an excuse to see the world.”

 

In the pages of Transworld Surf, Humphrey’s imagery set a new standard of surf photography. Most surf photographers of this era carried only a long lens and a fisheye for the water, focusing exclusively on action. Humphrey was instead inspired by big-league travel heroes like McCurry and Salgado. The portraiture, culture and curated artistry of his photography elevated the genre as a whole. Then one day Transworld called Humphrey and skate photographer Atiba Jefferson into the office and thrust new digital cameras upon them. “This is the future,” they said. And so it was. Humphrey has always been one to embrace progression, even when it spelled his ruin. 

Through his Bali friend Rizal Tanjung (“the prince on Indonesian surfing”), Humphrey connected with a well-known surf filmmaker named Taylor Steele, and the two bonded over their near-masochistic love of exotic travel. Over the following year, Steele and Humphrey dragged legendary surfers like Rob Machado, Dan Malloy and Kelly Slater (Steele’s close friends) to outrageous surf destinations like China, Cuba, Italy and Egypt, documenting their extended journeys on various photo stocks and 16mm film, focusing on culture and beauty rather than perfect waves. 

 

It’s one thing to explore the dark corners of the world on your own, but another entirely to lead others there. In Egypt, they snuck past security to photograph the pyramids from an unseen dawn angle. In Iceland, they crossed a glacier in whiteout conditions to score a never-before-surfed bay freshly powdered from the storm. In India, their bus driver fell asleep and drove off a cliff, nearly killing everyone inside. With two fractured vertebrae, Humphrey still made it to the beach to shoot the next day. In each location, they discovered waves no one had ever surfed before. They were pioneers. Explorers. 

The resulting film/book combo, Sipping Jetstreams, went on to win American Photo’s “Book of the Year” (beating submissions from Humphrey’s heroes Steve McCurry and Annie Leibovitz). He’s got the logo from the book tattooed on his arm, committing those years of adventure to his flesh. 


Now we emerge from the brush and thicket on the singletrack. Something I thought I’d wanted. But here I find Humphrey parked amid a series of large boulders at the top of a forbidding cliff. “I’d forgotten this was even here,” he says, staring down the too-steep hill. “You might not want to ride this part.” 

He considers this a moment, then heads down the hill. 

If this were my own story, I’d tell you about that hill. My twisted ankle and bruised knee. But I will say that Humphrey arrived at the base covered in dirt and dust, as well. This is how we met. Chasing pro surfers around the world. As the editor of Surfing Magazine, I’d just moved to Bali myself to collaborate on projects with Humphrey and Steele, who’d also started basing himself in Bali. He put me up in his house (as he did for many) and set me on my path as an expat. 

The photography work was ramping up for him now. Fashion shoots in New York and Paris. Ad campaigns for mainstream brands. He took on an agent and hired assistants. The money was coming in, but there was a price to pay for it.

Steele and Humphrey had just started a followup to Sipping Jetstreams, filming Vietnam, Peru and Iceland. He also started his own film project with surfer Rob Machado called The Drifter. This was a dark, complicated project, with Machado drag-racing the demons of divorce across the Indonesian outskirts. Humphrey built a custom, vintage motorcycle to be Machado’s costar, full of rattle and romance. Budgets were approved. One of the first-ever Red cameras was delivered to Bali. And the whole crew set off to create one of the most ambitious surf films ever. 

But it all went to hell.

 

His son Kelana had just been born. His once-spacious house was now crowded with visiting crew members juggling multiple projects. He barely even touched his cameras. Instead, he’d train up young locals, set them up on the beach, and approve the photos later. With the digital age in full swing now, the skill and mystery of photography was gone. Just Photoshop tricks now. Anyone could do it.

“I was sleepwalking through it,” says Humphrey. “Just saying yes to everything. Digital photography was too easy, and I lost my love for it.”

Deep in the jungles of Java, he contracted typhoid and dengue at the same time and ended up in the hospital. Overworked and overwhelmed. At odds with his own ambitions. It was his sanity that concerned him most.  From the hospital, he checked himself into therapy.

The films moved on without him. The mags grew distant. His home grew quiet. 

After the great and violent storm his life had become, a silence fell upon his house. Darkness. And then, after a time, the phone began to ring again. 

On an overnight flight to Australia, he ended up in first class beside another Bali expat named Dare Jennings. Two generations older, Jennings started the surf brand Mambo in the ’80s, and pioneered the notion of sponsoring artists and musicians alongside surfers and skaters—the idea being that these activities were not necessarily separate. Jennings eventually sold Mambo for a chunk of change and spent the next decade traveling and indulging his love of custom motorcycles. Eventually, his hobby began taking shape as a business in Sydney, called Deus ex Machina—a coffee-shop, moto-building clubhouse in downtown Sydney. Jennings offered to loan Humphrey a few of his custom bikes for an Australian surf trip he’d been working on, and the two stayed in touch. 

 

That project became Lover’s Land, a month-long, vintage surf/moto road trip up the eastern coast of Australia that would prove formative in Humphrey’s future (and inspire another tattoo across his arm). He was shooting on film again. Directing and riding. Feeling alive and inspired again. They camped along the way, then rented a beach house in Byron, communing with artists and curating a festival-like show full of art, photography, music and writing. The entire traveling circus experience was posted daily to a live blog, with photos, video and journals. Long before Instagram and vlog culture, audiences barely knew what they were looking at. But Humphrey knew they were onto something. This immersive, all-in experience. It was everything.

His conversations with Jennings continued until one night, over dinner, they shook hands on the idea of bringing Deus ex Machina to the remote Balinese village they both called home. 

A new chapter had begun.

At the base of the hill, dirty, thrilled, exhausted, we emerge into something new. This wide, green valley filled with trails, jumps, berms and hills. A couple of dirt bikes are ripping gleefully around the track. The smallest among them has his name on his custom jersey: HUMPHREY. 

“It’s kind of like a secret spot down here,” Humphrey says, putting the kickstand down on his bike to watch his son ride. For the moment, he seems to have arrived somewhere. We take off our helmets and mop the sweat with the dust.

“You know,” he says, “there’s a movement in the moto scene of guys who travel places they want to ride, wait for a big rain, then shape the ground into jumps and features to film content around. It reminds me of what we used to do in surfing. There was no such thing as freesurfing until a handful of guys just started doing it. I feel like moto is evolving toward that same idea now, too. People are more open-minded.” 

In Bali, the Deus build was massive. It included a spacious retail space, outdoor cafe/restaurant, motorcycle workshop, surfboard-shaping bays, photo studio, editing suites, and even a barber shop. There was a skate ramp out back, waves just down the street, and nothing but empty rice paddies in every direction. The locals couldn’t believe what these crazy white boys were building way out here in the middle of nowhere. 

As the project neared completion, Humphrey was offered a yearlong campaign for Corona beer—the biggest, most lucrative photo/film directing opportunity of his career. He passed on it to stay focused on this new behemoth. His agent lost his number. The magazines cut his retainers. He got divorced. But the Deus build continued. Constructed from ancient teak sourced from other islands. Hand-carved wood. Lush gardens. Quiet corners and creative spaces. A towering matrix of dreams, ideas and passions. They called it “The Temple of Enthusiasm.”

 

Of all the things the Temple was meant to be, a nightclub was not one of them. Some friends played music for the opening party, and the tradition continued over the weekends to come. For all of its party culture, original live music was rare in Bali, and the expat culture was famished for it. 

One night the boys from the rock band Wolfmother were in town to unwind after their stadium-filling Asian tour and staying at Dare Jennings’ expansive villa. They only wanted to surf, chase girls and disappear, but it was John Lennon’s birthday, so lead singer Andrew Stockdale suggested playing some cover tunes at the cafe. Humphrey rented the gear they needed, asked some musician friends to form an opening band, and then made a little blog post the morning of the show. “John Lennon’s birthday,” it read. The rumor translated across the island that “Wolfmother was playing Deus,” and by sunset, nearly a thousand people had congregated in the courtyard at Deus. The opening band decided this was the gig of their lives and turned it up to 11.

Watching all of this from Humphrey’s office overlooking the courtyard, Stockdale quickly realized an acoustic set of Beatles covers wasn’t going to appease this half-naked mob. But after three months of touring, the band was tighter than ever. They stepped onto the stage and ripped into one of the most blistering, no-holds-barred sets of their streaking comet career, belting out classic rock covers, Wolfmother hits, and psychedelic jams for over three straight hours. 

That night won’t soon be forgotten. And the little moto shop in the village would never live down it’s reputation as one of Bali’s best live music venues. 

It’s no small task to describe how Deus evolved from there. They built custom motorcycles, yes. And custom surfboards. And the restaurant, barber shop, clothing lines, and art shows turned the place into a tourist destination. The film productions, four-day surf/moto art festivals and steamy Sunday night DJ hip-hop parties were a mainstay for locals and travelers alike. They sponsored surfers, shapers, moto-riders, artists, celebrities, sushi chefs, and girls, lots of girls, to infuse their time at the Temple. Then they traveled throughout Indonesia creating lush travel films like South to Sian and I Had Too Much to Dream Last Night. These were the beautiful and uncomplicated travelogues he’d been trying to make from the beginning. Simple. Romantic. Friends sharing adventures.

 

 

Photography was a huge part of everything Deus. But instead of shooting this himself, Humphrey began mentoring a series of young photographers. Hurling them into the churning boot-camp of Deus’ never-ending trips, events, parties, projects and products. These photographers—guys like Tom Hawkins, Woody Gooch, and Harry Mark—surely bear their own scars from Humphrey’s no-filter, tough-love program, but they are each successful professionals today, owing much to his mentorship and creative vision. 

“I’m an average businessman,” says Humphrey, “but I am a good storyteller. And Deus was all about stories. That connected with people. And it showed people that you don’t have to be just one thing. No one’s just a surfer, or just a moto-rider, or just an artist. You can be all those things at the same time.”

As if to prove his point, Humphrey set up thirteen sewing machines in his office and dedicated himself to the creation of boardshorts. Retro styles made modern with four-way stretch materials and modern details. Aesthetics. Just like the bikes at Deus. The food. The Temple itself. All these things, Humphrey never physically worked on any of them, but they all originated in his head. Drawings and designs, sketched by artists, translated to builders, and each of them tongue-lashed when they got it wrong. “Yeah, I can be a hardass,” Humphrey admits. “But it’s just because I care about this stuff so much.”  

Amid all of this, young Kelana Humphrey was growing up fast. Surrounded by surfers, shapers, riders, mechanics and artists. He’d ride his little skateboard around the Temple and sit in for all the inappropriate stories and late-night parties. His dad brought him along on all their travels, and eventually, when he was seven, Kelana asked if he could come riding, too.

They’d been headed to the beach for one of their traditions of sunset flat-tracking the low-tide sandbars. While Dustin had never pushed Kelana to ride, the bike was ready for him. Seven-year-old Kelana twisted the throttle, tore down the beach, and that was it. He hasn’t stopped pinning it since then.

Kelana was raised by the Temple. Growing up, he thought people drag racing in crazy costumes on the beach was normal Thursday-night activity. That lighting a motorcycle on fire and dancing around it was just something people did. His bikes have always been custom. His surfboards hand-shaped. The waves were always epic and when he decided he wanted to race, Dad was all in.

“We were already fans of the sport,” explains Humphrey, “but racing in Indonesia is pretty disorganized. The tracks are hard to reach, and barely worth it when you get there. I’m no stranger to hard travel, but I’m used to reaching the beach at the end of the line. This was just more dirt, more jungle.”

 

His first year competing, Kelana finished runner-up Indonesia national champion (against much older kids). But Dustin remained skeptical of the whole program of Indonesian racing. He joined Kelana at one of his training camps in Java, thinking to advance his own riding in the process. After riding his 250cc for a few days, he borrowed a 450cc and massively overshot a double jump. The crash broke his left foot in 21 places, split his right tib-fib in two, and wrecked his knee permanently. He spent the next eight months in a wheelchair, and a year after that just learning how to walk again. This was a dark time, clouded by pain meds, poor health and business growing pains. Their little Balinese village had grown up, with dozens of rival restaurants and clubs creating a nonstop festival merry-go-round. The rice paddies were gone. The surf breaks were crowded. The spotlight was blinding.

At some point in all of this, he took Kelana to California to train with moto-coach Sean Lipanovich. The quality of the tracks there was night and day compared to Indonesia, and with Sean’s help, Kelana was getting ready for a bigger stage. Around this time, Deus—now an international brand with shops in Japan, Italy, and California—sold part of the company to an Italian conglomerate, headed by the CEOs of LVMH and Ducati. Humphrey sold the Deus Indonesia operation to them and took the role of global media director, cutting his ties with the Temple. 

He moved to California and invested heavily in RVs, bikes and support vehicles for Kelana’s racing career. All in, once again. It was Dustin and Kelana versus the world. Until the day that a unicorn crossed his path. He fell in love with the girl of his dreams, Emily. And with an epic fiesta in Mexico, they became a family. With kids in tow, they honeymooned driving south through Baja, passing nothing but cactus and tombstones before finding perfect waves at the end of a very long, dry, bumpy road. Humphrey happily gained another son, Dylan, with this marriage. It’s hard to say if Dylan loves surfing or watching Kelana race more. The crew couldn’t be better matched.

 

Within the first year of racing in America, Kelana finished 6th at the infamous Loretta Lynn’s and won two AMA Monster Energy Supercross Future titles. Even still, Humphrey questions this career path. “Motocross kids have a 0.1 percent chance of making it as a pro,” he says. “And many of them just completely burn out before they get the chance. It’s the most physically demanding sport in the world. So, personally, if he did make it, I’d love to see him spend half the year racing supercross and the other creating movie sections, the way the pro athletes in the surf and skate industry do. I think that’s better for the fans and the brands, anyway, and doesn’t kill the athletes in the process with the hectic schedules.”

Watching Kelana, it’s not hard to imagine him as the 0.1 percent. He’s got a natural style, a mature attitude, and a showman’s flare (the kid loves a good victory celebration). While his years in Bali were a revolving door of influential mentors, moving to Temecula has taken it to the next level. Here, Jason Anderson has become a friend and role model; he regularly connects with top freeriders like Twitch and Tyler Bereman just to ride on a weekday afternoon, or pop over to Jarred McNeal’s house to jump his ramps. Riding here is fun. Less serious. And that’s definitely the point. 

While it still baffles Dustin that he’s back here, he’s realizing America is full of its own adventures. They’ve just returned from two weeks in Utah, creating the first State of Ethos content with co-conspirators Nick Lapaglia, Todd Cram, Micha Davis and Forrest Minchinton. They shot 16mm film photos and Super 8 film to splice together with action, and behind the scenes shot on Red cameras. “The whole vlog thing isn’t really my cup of tea,” he says, “but I do see the importance of it; it’s not the polished film feel that generally attracts me, but I do see a need for it in this day and age. So, my approach is to say, okay, how can we make this better. You gotta keep up with the algorithms.”

Kelana spots us watching and wheelies up the hill, followed by the other rider, who I quickly realize is Forrest Minchinton.

Forrest’s dad, Mike Minchinton, used to shape his boards when he first started surfing in Huntington. Forrest was Kelana’s age then, just hanging around the Robert August shaping bays. When Dustin flew Mike out to shape boards at The Temple, he brought Forrest, who quickly won every division of the moto event they were hosting. Deus sponsored Forrest, who soon became a mentor to Kelana. And when they started making trips to California, Forrest’s desert compound in the Johnson Valley became an essential training ground for Kelana’s development as a freerider.

The sun’s getting low in the sky, and it’s time to get back to the house anyway. I was dreading the return ride, but we end up following Kelana along an easy dirt road back to the house. (Why didn’t we come this way in the first place, I wonder?) 

 

Back at “The House of Good Times”—as Humphrey has dubbed his new home—the sunset is painting an epic view for about a hundred miles. Layers of mountains, a glimmering lake, the twinkling stars of strip malls spilling into darkness. The cool calm of dusk. Humphrey opens a bottle of white from the local vineyards and Emily throws a tri-tip on the BBQ. While the rest of us settle into the porch, Kelana keeps riding. He’s got a full dirt playground carved into the backyard—complete with full-size FMX ramp, pit bike track, turn tracks—and Humphrey can just sit on his stoop and watch his sons ride.

“I couldn’t dream of anything more than this,” he says. But then his phone buzzes, and I know he told a lie. He’s never been one to sit back and watch. 

“I feel like State of Ethos is the sum of everything I’ve been working on for the last 25 years,” he says. “What I learned from building Deus is that it doesn’t have to be just one thing. People aren’t like that anyway. It’s okay to love lots of different things at once. That’s how life is.” 

On the surface, Ethos is a line of motorcycle gear. Beyond that, it’s a vehicle to continue his narrative. His storytelling. What he’s always done. Building campfires to gather around. All the years of photography and filmmaking, the style and clothing manufacturing he learned at Deus, and a lifetime rambling the world on two wheels. 

“I’m not a professional designer,” he says, “but I’m a design enthusiast. And right now, I don’t love anything that I see being made out there. But rather than complain about it, I’d rather just try to make it better.”

He’s been doing this for years with Kelana and Forrest’s custom Deus gear, with Deus rebuilds, and with his own films and photography. So, this is just scaling up. “The goal is just to bring some of the style and culture that doesn’t really exist in motocross these days,” he says. “And to be able to do that with my friends and with my son, what more could I ask for?”

 

Kelana hits the kicker and sails 70 feet through the sunset backdrop. He’ll be gone before long. A teenager chasing his own dreams and adventures. Yet for a moment, Humphrey seems to be fully here and now. Enjoying the sight of his son soaring across the sky like a streaking comet.

Maybe it’ll become his next tattoo. Or maybe a scar. Either way, there’ll be a story to tell.

Strange Worlds

Volume 019, Fall 2020

Words by Ben Giese | Photo by Dustin Humphrey


Children have wild and beautiful imaginations. Their minds exist on the fringes of reality, transcending into the strange worlds that they’ve created for themselves. Worlds made of pure, unfiltered creativity and wonder that most adults can only find in their dreams. As we get older, the frontal cortex of our brain develops to think more logically, and with time those magical worlds begin to fade into dust. That surrender of imagination is an evolutionary trait that helps us adapt to social norms, relate to other people and fit better into society. It’s where we develop rational thinking and structure that leads to the thing we consider “success” – but at what cost? 

Often what makes us “successful” is also what makes us less creative. As a result, we’ve become prisoners to our own success. Alarm clock, traffic, cubicle, eat, sleep, repeat. Of course, the comforts of money and success are nice, but the creative spark, the thrill of inspiration and the freedom of pursuing that inspiration are all things that money can’t buy. 

Imagination has fueled some of the most innovative minds in history – like Nikola Tesla, Isaac Newton, Leonardo da Vinci, Galileo, Walt Disney and Steve Jobs, to name a few. Even the great Albert Einstein once said, “Imagination is more important than knowledge. For knowledge is limited, whereas imagination encircles the world.” It’s something that lives within all of us, and it just takes a bit of practice to uncover. Like poet Maya Angelou said, “You can’t use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have.” So, let’s use it!

For this issue we imagined a fictional story of some friends discovering a terrifying monster hidden on an old dairy farm. We explored the back roads of a small town called Last Chance and contemplated how this might in fact be humanity’s last chance. We traveled to the Utah desert to look up at the stars and find hope in the limits of human exploration. We imagined new ways to explore the rivers of Washington on two wheels and found some hidden fishing holes along the way. We escaped death in the dark corners of Mexico’s cartel land with Justin Chatwin and his band of outlaws. We stepped behind the lens and into the eyes of photographer John Ryan Hebert, and we dove into the creative mind of Dustin Humphrey, who is living proof that you can indeed find success through the pursuit of your imagination. 

This moment in history feels like we’re living through a zombie apocalypse. Reality seems to be slipping further and further away as we stare into glowing rectangles that hypnotize us into mass hysteria and disillusion. With each passing day, it feels like we are one step closer to George Orwell’s 1984, which is why we need free thinkers now more than ever. We need people who are unafraid to harness the incredible power of imagination and dream up those beautiful strange worlds. These people might not be able to change the chaos that is happening, but they can enrich our lives with a bit of magic and inspire us to keep creating. And for that we’d like to celebrate them in the pages of this issue.

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019 Contents

008 | INTRO Strange Worlds

014 | END OF THE LINE Singletrack & Trout

030 | LAST CHANCE The Alien Among Us

038 | CARTEL LAND Near Death in Mexico

046 | LIFTOFF A Love Letter to the Stars

064 | THE WHEELER DAIRY KILLINGS Legend of the Capra Monster

076 | HERE & NOW Photography by John Ryan Herbert

090 | ALL OR NOTHING Dustin Humphrey

108 | REVERB Music discovery curated by Dustin Humphrey

110 | RESERVE Product discovery curated by Tobacco Motorwear

Liftoff

A Love Letter to the Stars

A film by Wiley Kaupas | Photos by Lear Miller


Athletes: Austin Hackett-Klaube, Harrison Ory | Filmed by: Wiley Kaupas, Lear Miller, Kasen Schauman | Original Score: Nash Howe

 

What lies above our heads goes on forever.

 
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Forever in motion, and endlessly silent.  

 
 
 
 
 
 

But it calls to us.

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Beckons us to journey into the unknown. 

 
 
 

To search for an end to the endless.

 
 
 
 
 
 

To find weight in being weightless.

 
 
 
 
 

For some, that call is irresistible,

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and the only place that it can be answered

 

is up.