Foreign Rider

RALPH DUNNING ON PURPOSE

Words by Seth Richards | Photography by John Hebert


Video by Kasen Schamaun | Directed by Ben Giese

 

On a motorcycle, we’re all foreigners. We don’t belong. We don’t know where we’re going. We’re in over our heads. 

The mountain pass is buried in snow. The trail’s descent is ice and mud, and it’s getting colder as daylight fades in the Mojave. There’s no way out but back. As you try to turn around on the hill, you stall the engine and drop the bike. It’s the fifth time in the last hour you’ve dropped it, and it takes all your strength to pick it up. Still, nothing’s dire, you tell yourself. Your body calls your bluff. Your sympathetic nervous system kicks in without your blessing: That relentless pounding in your ears is the beat of your heart, and it feels like it’s trying to punch its way out through your earplugs. 

Your heart betrays you and turns your head. You’re not a good enough rider. You’re too old. You’re not supposed to be here. This isn’t what you signed up for. 

 

But it’s exactly what Ralph Dunning signed up for. 

The 58-year-old Toronto native was riding a rented BMW R 1250 GS as part of RawHyde’s Mojave Magic Adventure, a seven-day guided tour through the California desert, when it became apparent that there are a lot of ways to feel out of place on a motorcycle.  

“The whole reason I wanted to go on that trip was to address what fear means to people,” Dunning says. “But I didn’t know it was going to be super-technical, or that we’d be riding at such high speeds. You kind of go in like a deer in headlights.”

“The first big ride day, we pulled off into this pass, and it’s ten miles of really narrow and really technical terrain,” he continues. “Ten minutes in, I break my ribs. A couple minutes later, I go over the bars and smash my head. The side of my Shoei is nuked. I remember thinking, ‘I’ve just got to get out of this pass.’ And then we hit deep sand for the first time. And I’m on this huge bike. Now I’ve entered into a world of motorcycling I didn’t know existed.”

A year and a half earlier, Dunning had never even swung a leg over a motorcycle. 

In life and work, Dunning is a man tirelessly in pursuit of purpose. Professionally, this quality made him a disruptor in his field and turned him into a successful entrepreneur. In 1993, after a decade working in the music industry, Dunning founded his first company, Rip N Hammer, which attempted to do for the cycling and endurance racing world what a brand like Stüssy did for the surf-and-skate world. Then, in 2001, he founded Dunning Golf and grew it into one of the foremost golf apparel brands in the world, making his name synonymous with quality and innovation. 

The inspiration for the brand came when Dunning played a round of golf at a public course on the Big Island of Hawaii. He had just completed an Ironman race and found himself swinging a club, wearing a cotton shirt, absolutely drenched in sweat. He looked around the green and saw a legion of sopping cotton. By that point, he’d been designing and manufacturing technical apparel for a decade. In the golf world’s tendency toward conservatism, he saw an opportunity, despite his unfamiliarity with the culture. 

Dunning developed a series of products focused on fit, performance, durability and timeless design. His approach was met with a mix of excitement and criticism. “From 2001 to 2007, no one understood what we were doing except for the tour players,” Dunning says. “They loved the fact that we were making all this technical stuff. Then, in 2007, Zach Johnson wore one of our compression pieces, our pants, our underwear, our polo, and he won the Masters. Our brand just blew up. Dunning Golf completely redefined the golf industry. It changed the entire landscape.”

Dunning continued to innovate, developing new fabrics, always with an eye toward the needs of the player. For the golf community’s love of luxurious-feeling fabrics, Dunning Golf added performance attributes from the broader sporting world: stretch, airflow and heat management, odor control, and UV protection. The golf world eventually took notice, and larger brands began to pursue the world beyond cotton, though many took shortcuts by using chemically treated fabrics that weren’t as durable, ecologically friendly, or effective as what Dunning was developing.

In 2011, Dunning sold 75 percent of his company to grow the brand globally. Even with new corporate ownership, Dunning focused on maintaining the brand’s original DNA, producing proprietary fabrics and controlling brand communication to build consumer trust. 

After nearly two decades, Dunning left the brand in 2020 to follow other paths.

A year later, one of Dunning’s closest friends fell ill. His friend was passionate about learning how to ride a motorcycle, and had already bought a new Triumph, so Dunning decided he’d learn how to ride as a way to support him.

“I’ve been a bicyclist for 35 years,” Dunning says. “From a peripheral perspective, I always looked at motorcycling as dangerous and never really understood it.” 

Regardless, on a wet day in October, Dunning went to a local off-road school to learn the basics of operating a motorcycle. 

“I showed up and there were, like, twenty people,” he says. “Fifteen of them were like six years old, and the rest were like 12 to 15. And me.”

They put him on a Yamaha TT-R230 and introduced the absolute basics of riding. Throttle, clutch, brakes. Dunning says: “I got on the bike, the clutch goes out, and the bike starts to move, and I was like, ‘Fuck!’”

After about 45 minutes and having experienced the glorious success of shifting into second gear, Dunning followed the class around some gravel tracks. From his years of gravel biking, it all started to click, and his enthusiasm grew. After the class, when all the kids went home, the instructor took Dunning around for the rest of the afternoon. He was hooked. “I stopped at a bike dealership on the way home to buy a TT-R,” he says. 

That spring, he took the M1 course to get his street license. “I didn’t really love school, but I studied for this test like it was the most important thing I’d ever done,” he says. “So, I passed the written portion and then the M2 course, and then I got a Honda CB500X. Within a year and a half, I rode 15,000 miles on it and sunk my teeth into motorcycling. Now I’m obsessed. It’s all I think about.”

When he signed up for RawHyde’s Mojave tour, he knew he’d be out of his comfort zone, exposed to terrain he’d never encountered before, riding a bike with close to three times as much horsepower as anything he’d ever ridden, and among riders with decades of experience. 

 “On the second day,” Dunning says, “we rode through a bunch of technical sand stuff, and I stuck with the crew and was really proud. But near the end of the day, it was getting dark, we were at really high elevation in really fast, winding sections, and I got dropped. They probably waited for me for ten minutes. When I pulled up, the ride leader was annoyed and kind of got in my face. He said: ‘Why are you so slow?’ I just looked at him and didn’t say anything and rode back to the hotel. I didn’t even know how to process that until I realized he had no idea that I was a new rider.” 

“It was kind of embarrassing getting dropped like that, but I wanted to learn, and the only way to get to that point is to ride with really good riders,” he adds. “You’ve got to be around people who are better than you. There’s going to be some humiliation that goes along with that. But it’s no different from learning anything — in business or anything.”

At 55 years old, when many people look forward to slowing down and replacing work with leisure, Dunning began to develop a new brand called Foreign Rider Co., specializing in small-batch, ethically produced clothing built to his exacting standards in Toronto. The first short runs of foundational items like tees and hoodies sold out quickly, showing that there’s always a market for quality.

“The last thing the world needs right now is another apparel company,” Dunning says. “What apparel is doing to the environment is a problem. There are too many companies and harmful production processes. There’s too much shit being put into landfills. I wanted to address all of that and build a company exactly the right way.”

The brand’s logo is a basic circle with the lowercase abbreviation “fr.” inside. The logo alludes to the brand’s purpose of producing straightforward garments refined to their essentiality. Since discovering motorcycling, Dunning has reevaluated the scope of its offerings, however, and is relaunching with the mantra “the exploration of fr.eedom.”   

To begin with, Foreign Rider will introduce a line of high-performance base layers that keep their shape and stay fresh even beneath a motorcycle jacket. Then, it will introduce casual wear, including Supima cotton T-shirts made from California-grown cotton that’s knit, sewn and dyed in Toronto. Selvedge denim jeans and a Halley Stevenson waxed cotton canvas jacket will follow. 

 “Even with T-shirts,” Dunning says, “in the back of my mind, I’m asking, ‘How does this apply to the life of someone who rides?’ We have thirty years of apparel experience, so we understand fit, fabric, construction and aesthetic. There’s a reason for every piece we make to exist. Long-lasting quality is so important to us.”

In 2024, Foreign Rider will introduce motorcycle riding gear. There are few types of clothing as technically demanding, but Dunning is undeterred, and plans on leveraging the moto community to develop gear fit for the future of riding.    

Dunning is too humble to say he hopes to do for the moto world what he did for the golf world, but his ambition is evident. Foreign Rider is more than just his next business venture and a culmination of his professional expertise; for Dunning, it’s the act of motorcycling dyed, stitched together, and worn for life. 

The brand is an expression of Dunning’s personal journey and of the journey of every motorcyclist: To find the heart of motorcycling, Dunning subjected himself to the unknown challenges of the Mojave.

“A few days into the Mojave tour, I’d torn my pectoral muscle, broken my ribs in two places, sprained my wrist, and almost put my knee through that boxer engine,” Dunning shares. “I was just in agony. They were like, ‘Do we need to have someone come get you?’ But I shook it off. When I thought about all the Ironman races I’d done over the years, I knew I’d be fine. I rode the rest of the trip and felt such a sense of pride that I was able to grind it out. What it did for me was address fear. This leads into Foreign Rider and our mantra of ‘the exploration of freedom.’”

Dunning knows that fear is the other side of purpose. Fear doesn’t merely stand in the way of purpose; it walks beside it hand in hand. From competing in eight Ironman races to risking financial security to pursuing new business ventures, he’s grown accustomed to fear’s heart-pounding, head-turning companionship. To know fear is to know freedom.

“Getting into motorcycling was that defining moment in my life where I opened up to what freedom actually is,” he says. “And freedom is all-encompassing — in your mind, what you do on your bike, how you communicate with people, how you open up to the world. I learned all of that from riding a motorbike. There’s a Zen-like approach to living that motorcycling has brought to me.” 

Dunning says that at the same time, he was influenced by the Japanese belief that every person possesses ikigai, a latent purpose that when discovered brings meaning and fulfillment. Ikigai is achieved when a person combines what they love, what they’re good at, what the world needs, and what they can be paid to do. Life and work are viewed not as distinct or opposing forces, but as a singularity that melds passion, vocation, mission and profession. It makes an art of living well.

“For the first time in my life, I’m really comfortable with who I am as a businessperson,” Dunning says. “When Dunning Golf started to really grow, I made some tactical mistakes by letting the company grow too quickly. I saw financial opportunities and chased them before realizing I wasn’t ready. Now, I get up in the morning and believe in what I’m doing.”

Sigrid Undset, the Nobel Prize-winning author, writes in The Burning Bush: “St. Thomas had a psychological explanation even for such a thing as his feeling about work—he defined art, ars [the Latin for “skilled work”], as an intellectual virtue, and virtue in his language means power. Art is the right understanding of the thing which is to be produced; every man is a worker, and as such, has need of art, not in order to live well in a moral sense, but in order to do good work.”  

Foreign Rider is in many ways the manifestation of Dunning’s ikigai and his fulfillment of Thomas’ portrayal of the worker. Motivated by his passion for two wheels, recognizing a space in the marketplace, and armed with three decades of expertise, Dunning is freed by the notion of ars-as-power and equipped to do good work.

Dunning’s work is defined by building brands with integrity. His understanding of culture gives him a zoomed-out perspective, while his goal of creating products of lasting quality keeps his focus rooted in the particulars. On the brink of relaunching Foreign Rider Co., Dunning is also planning to revive his first company, Rip N Hammer, with a focus on motocross, off-road riding, and mountain biking. 

Good work is born of purpose, purpose is born of freedom, freedom is born of fear. Rather than running from fear or resting in the solace of his own success, Dunning went to the desert to embrace unknown danger, adopting a posture of humility in the pursuit of freedom and purpose. 

“By the end of the trip,” Dunning says, “the instructor who was pretty hard on me at first was high-fiving me and hugging me. He had me follow him through the twisties to show me the right lines, and he took time to help me. He taught me a lot. By the end, he said: ‘Right on, man. You’re a rider now.’ With everything I’ve done in my career, that moment means more than anything.”

We’re all foreign riders. Fear finds us, and freedom takes us. In the end, we belong wherever we’re going.

Metanoia in Morocco

OVERCOMING LOSS AND FINDING SPIRITUAL TRANSFORMATION

Forward by Joel Fuller  | With journal entries & photography by Tyler Ravelle

 

Five days of riding in Morocco: 800-plus miles, 98% off-road, lungs full of dust, boots full of sand, cracked lips, best friends, poorly filtered gas, tagines, mint tea, cafe au laits, 6th gear pinned across the Western Sahara. Nerves, pain and sorrow overcome from the recent unforeseen passing of a father bonded by life on two wheels. 

Two weeks before Tyler Ravelle’s trip to Morocco, I received a phone call from him asking, “Would you like to go to Morocco and ride dirt bikes?” A friend of his was originally supposed to join him, but had to cancel at the last minute, so a spot opened up. Despite the need for a difficult conversation with my then-significant other about canceling a trip to Hawaii … I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join Ty on this adventure.

Ty and I have a close bond, forged by our shared love of riding, photography and storytelling. It was an honor for me to join him on this trip, especially given the very recent loss of his father in a motorcycle accident. I was glad to be there to support him during this difficult time and help document our journey together. It would be the first time he set off on a motorcycle since his father’s passing.

In the following pages, you will find Ty’s journal entries from our trip. We hope that through his words, you will get not only a sense of our adventures in this beautiful country, but also a deeper understanding of the close and personal relationship between Ty and his father.

 
 
 
 
 

The Lion Wanted To Hunt

POL TARRÉS ON BECOMING HIMSELF

Words by Tina Torelli | Photography by Javi Echevarri

 

This is the intimate portrait of Pol Tarrés, bike whisperer and insanely skilled visionary on the motorcycle scene. Like any artist, as he defines himself, the 29-year-old official Yamaha rider from Spain is here to disturb the peace. His heavy-duty art is like a roaring lion perched on a rock – loud, free and self-confident. 

It’s a Friday morning, and Tarrés has just finished his first workout of the day. Too disciplined for this world (his own words), he wakes up at dawn, puts his sneakers on no matter what and goes out on his artistic hunt.

“It’s this need to create and to express myself. Instead of paint and a brush, I use my body and my bike. It’s who I am, and this gift is what I was born with,” says Tarrés, fresh and radiant after his morning run. 

 

He likes to find inspiration in nature, tapping into its whispers, textures and shapes. “When I go for a run, I intentionally take new trails, because it’s like opening a portal to let new ideas flow in. I have the ability to see jumps and tricks where there are rocks, trees, rivers and walls. I am obviously inspired by BMX, only I’m dancing over the terrain on a 450-pound motorcycle. I’m basically mapping the world of adventure bikes through the lens of a BMX rider, and that’s what makes me happy.”

Besides redefining what is possible in riding, physics and human potential, Tarrés is simply living his life. “Who am I? I am a simple guy. Most of the time I am just training, riding and playing princesses with my daughter,” he explains … almost seriously. 

Tarrés doesn’t mind opening up about all things good and bad. The story about how he became himself and his classical hero’s journey with all the bestselling ingredients. It’s a story about freedom, beauty, perseverance, patience, hard work and sacrifice.

So, let’s go back to 1993. On September 29, a boy with his fate already carved in stone was born. His father, Francesc Tarrés, competed in trials riding, and so did his uncle Jordi Tarrés, seven-time world champion. Pol successfully toed the family line until 2016, when he quit trials.  He was hungry for greater challenges, and his soul called him to extreme enduro and super enduro, where he would create his own universe. 

Saying goodbye to trials was unexpected, and it would take another six years to show everybody exactly why he did it. Today he’s a famous and well-respected rider, but nobody on the outside knows the battle for freedom he fought behind the scenes. Not against an outside enemy, but worse – he had to endure doubts, judgments, accusations and persuasion from his own circle. 

“Imagine a lion raised as a circus animal, trained to perform tricks. The lion might be the king of the circus, yet what he really wanted to be the king of the jungle,” Tarrés says.  “A lion wants to hunt, to attack, to rest and sleep. A lion wants to be FREE.”

He continues, “It sounds harsh, but I felt like a circus lion in a cage. Of course, I was making good money. Many people wanted my life, but not me, I didn’t want it, because the tag on my cage said how much money I should win, and how I should do it. I did win a lot, but when you are a circus animal, winning doesn’t make you happy.”

He adds that when he was in this situation, there was no feeling of fulfillment, because he wasn’t achieving his goals.  “My uncle is a legend of the sport with all he did for trials, and all his titles, and it was all on me to carry the torch,” Tarrés says. “At one point, I had no choice but to stand up against 95 percent of the trials world. I was lucky enough to have fellow rider Toni Bou on my side. Toni understood immediately that I had to leave so I could pursue what I am doing today.”

Tarrés’ evolution started as all evolutions do: in the muddy waters of a revolution. Rewriting your own story is a dirty job, but he had to do it anyway. “There’s one important thing I’d like to add,” he shares. “I left trial with immense gratitude. This difficult discipline formed my character, honed my technique, taught me sacrifice and gave me the tools for my art. Trials was the university I attended for many years, but then I chose a different career. It happens to a lot of people, after all.” 

The master of badass riding with the body proportions of a Spartan warrior is surely not meant to follow anyone else’s path but his own, and blazing his own trail brought him satisfaction beyond his wildest imagination. Tarrés was now ready to express the unimaginable. To make the impossible, possible. 

The visionary team he cofounded, Trece Racing Society, came together in the name of this possibility. Trece Racing Society is a gang of doers and free-spirited individuals who like to be challenged while serving beauty to the world. It’s the creative force behind all the wild projects that Tarrés is in evolved in, from traveling the globe to creating inspiring films, setting world records or competing in ground-breaking events. 

It’s not easy to explain how this family lives and breathes, but Tarrés gives it a try. “When I’m with the guys, it’s like entering into our own little world and it gives me a whole new level of confidence. In the end, I am able to do these extraordinary things because I trust completely in myself and my team. If the idea sounds too crazy, we do it anyway. If we want to set a new world record, the only question is how.”

Tarrés is a hunter of crazy new ideas, but it’s also true that these crazy ideas are hunting him. “If I can see it with my mind, a trick, a jump or a mission, I know it can be done. If something pops into my head and won’t let me go, I intuitively know it’s possible. It feels like the idea belongs to me. Everything you see on my YouTube or Instagram is something I felt beforehand, and it was this undeniable feeling that made me overcome people’s comments. ‘What do you want to prove?’ Nothing, calm down, nothing. ‘You’ll kill yourself!’ People think I’m crazy and it’s simply not true. I am mentally balanced,” he smiles. 

Life flows when you move according to its energy. “If something gives me good vibes, it’s a green light for me,” says Tarrés, making a gesture of touching the throttle impatiently. It’s easy to imagine him standing at the traffic lights with his eyes closed, centered and perfectly present. Red, yellow, green … and he launches the mission, unconditionally backed up by his team. But what is really behind all these gigantic achievements, on the mental side of the game? 

“Sacrifice, patience and willingness to feel pain,” he offers. “People see me traveling the world to do some tricks. Surprise, surprise – that’s the same Pol who gets up at six every day and goes for a run. Still the same Pol that works an entire month on one ten-second trick. But the moment I can finally jump, it’s just glorious!”

Only a great team with the same dedication and values can create great things. Tarrés  explains: “This is how Trece Racing Society began. On a sunny day, a guy named Javi Echevarría called me and proposed a commercial spot for Mango, where I would be wearing a suit and riding a motorcycle. I’ve done many commercials but never actually had fun while doing them. There was an unusual chemistry, so we decide to meet again and share ideas. Echevarría eventually became the team manager and creative director of Trece Racing Society, and eventually more people joined, and we become a family.”

Trece Racing Society went from “Hello, let’s fund a team and do some fun shit together” to a full-on brand in no time. But where is the road taking him? “I have no idea. I just know there’s no end. I will continue pushing my bike’s limits and mine. There are race results to improve, new tricks to invent, and many more exciting stories to tell.”

What could be better than doing what you love most in the world while collecting all these extreme adventures with your friends? “Nothing,” Tarrés says. “Every time we achieve something, I look back seven years and give myself a high-five. On a flight back home from a race or an expedition, I say to myself: ‘I’m doing what I felt I had to do. Isn’t that amazing?’ I know who I am, I set my own goals and I work harder than ever before.”

He adds, “In most of our projects, I get to the point where I’ve reached all sorts of my limits. Let’s say I am pushing up the wall of a mountain with no tire left; it’s freaking cold and there’s no oxygen. Or I am sinking into the sea of dunes at 120 degrees, watching other riders passing by. The moment of despair could easily break me, but instead I surrender to it, I don’t fight it.

“I think the human body is very intelligent and practically limitless, but it’s the mind who’s in control. It’s only when you connect everything – the mind, body and soul – that you can win. Being whole, that’s my biggest secret. I am not ashamed to say that I worked for years with psychologists, and that changed my life. You have to leave your pride at home sometimes. You get stronger physically, stronger technically, and you have to become stronger mentally to balance this out. We’re all just human.”

Tarrés knows how to prevent those frequent trips to the hospital: He sweats more in training and bleeds less in battle. “I owe it to myself and to the people who believe in me to work hard. I need to be super fit. Wake me up at midnight, I am ready to ride.”

Freedom doesn’t always mean lying on the beach with a cocktail in your hard. It’s hard work. “I know why I do it,” he says.  “I appreciate every second I can enjoy my freedom and doing what I love.”

Roaring on his rock, wild and free. 

Inverted Perspective

THE VICKI GOLDEN STORY

A Film by 805 Beer

 

Inverted Perspective is a deep dive into Vicki Golden’s powerful rise to the top of the motocross world. An original film from 805 Beer that uncovers just what it is that makes Vicki tick. Unbeatable on the track, unrelenting on the ramp, and unwavering in her pursuit of being better every day, Vicki's inspired an entire generation of young women riders who now have someone to look up to. Vicki Golden’s decorated career as a five-time X Games gold medalist begins as innocently as most. Family days at the track sparked a desire to be the best rider she could be. Eventually, her dedication to all things two wheels and unwillingness to be put in a separate category elevated her to every conversation in the moto world. But giving Vicki the proper amount of credit in text alone would be not only a ridiculous task, but it’d also be a disservice to her. From being the first woman to qualify for Supercross, the first woman to medal in X Games Best Whip, and the first woman to be invited to Red Bull Imagination, Vicki has to be seen to be believed.

 

Enso

A FILM ABOUT LETTING GO

By Dylan Wineland & Aaron McClintock

 

At some point there seems to be a defining moment in life where you learn to let go. Sometimes, not by choice. And often times it comes to us as the illusion of defeat, while in reality, it was the very thing we needed to guide us to where we had to go.

About a year ago, Aaron and I came across the Buddhist word, Ensō. This single word described everything that we had been talking about for the last year or so. By definition, it represents and suggests cutting the desire for perfection and allowing things to be just as they are.

Understanding that perfection doesn’t exist allows you to move through life gracefully, free of unnecessary pressure. It opens the door to allow situations to unfold naturally, and invites intuition and creativity to move through. For Aaron, riding is a great place to practice this concept. It’s a place that he can go where the universe can reveal these sort of secrets.

In this film, we ride along with Aaron as he takes a journey into the idea letting go and simply being.

 

Vicki Golden: To The Limit

UNSTOPPABLE: VICKI GOLDEN

Words by Kirsten Midura | Photography by MacKenzie Hennessey

 
Aplume of dust billows across the sherbet sunset as two knobby tires launch sky-high into the air. The rider’s body twists to one side, the handlebars to the other. Platinum blond hair streams from beneath the helmet, framing the name and number emblazoned on the jersey: Golden, 423. 

Below, the bleachers sit silent, vacant, yet cheers arise from a group of onlookers nearby. The public is not permitted at the practice day for the Red Bull Imagination event, but no matter. Vicki Golden’s biggest fans are her peers who ride alongside her this weekend – the top motocross freeriders in the world.

Disguised as a competition, Imagination is, at its core, a family-reunion-cum-field-day for elite athletes in the sport: Those who, having come mostly from racing, have elevated their riding beyond any conventional metric for comparison. 

 
 
 

“Freeriding is more art than sport,” explains Jeremy “Twitch” Stenberg, a founding member of Vicki’s first freestyle motocross (FMX) team, the preeminent Metal Mulisha. A world-class rider in his own right, Twitch knows how different this sport is from other competitions. “It’s all up to interpretation,” he says. “Even the competitive element doesn’t quite make sense.”

Indeed, in two short days, the ten riders who have been invited to compete will take on a sea of intersecting motocross jumps, each crest towering above the next. But today is practice day; spirits are high, smiles are ubiquitous, and the athletes are here to help each other and hone their craft.

 

As usual, the artistry is undeniable in Vicki’s performance. All agree that she is riding as well as she ever has. She makes it look effortless, yet Vicki’s mastery has come from a lifetime of hard work and incalculable physical and emotional sacrifices. Admittedly, Vicki thrives on pushing herself to the limit. “I absolutely love putting in work,” she says. “The more work you put in, the more it pays off.”

Throughout her life, Vicki’s work ethic has been centered undauntingly on dirt bikes, which she gravitated to in her early childhood. “It was mainly because of my dad,” she says. “He was just your average guy going to the track, but I saw him doing it, and it sparked my passion for anything on two wheels.”

Growing up in the outskirts of San Diego, Vicki, her dad, and her friends would bypass the local facilities and carve their own motocross tracks out of the surrounding hillsides. “It was the cheapest way to stay on two wheels,” Vicki explains. “We had more access, but it made it a lot tougher to go up and down big, rocky, rutty hills and just survive on a 50cc.” Those early challenges paid off, and by the ripe age of 8 – only a year after she first swung a leg over a bike – Vicki found herself racing.

 

At the time, there was no women’s class, despite the presence of multiple female racers. Nevertheless, Vicki flourished when competing against the boys. “It’s just what I got used to at the very beginning,” she explains, “I was always riding with guys on the practice days. It’s my origins; it’s just how it was.” As Vicki describes it, motocross is one of the few sports where you can hit a girl on the track and get away with it. “If they want to take your front wheel and get around you,” she says, “they’re going to. You have to figure out how to stand up to them to get their respect.”

And stand up to them she did. As she won race after race, Vicki established herself among the top in her class, to the dismay of many a competitor. “There was always a joke my dad had with me,” Vicki remembers, “that at every race there would be a kid crying because he got beat by a girl.”

When she was 12, both Vicki and her dad qualified for Loretta Lynn’s annual AMA Amateur Nationals Motocross Championship in Tennessee, the premier amateur MX competition. But months before they were set to compete, Vicki’s life took a dramatic turn.

 
 

On an otherwise typical day of riding at the local track, Vicki’s father was hit by an ATV that was also on the course. He was immediately paralyzed from the chest down. In an instant, Vicki’s mentor and go-to riding partner would never again ride alongside his daughter. “When the accident happened,” Vicki recalls, “I was too young to really understand what dangers the sport can bring. But my dad was so stoked to have me riding that from then on, I really rode for the both of us.”

Still determined to compete at Loretta Lynn’s that year, Vicki now had to become a one-woman show, preparing her “bone-stock, clapped out” bike for the event. “When I went there, the bike wasn’t even running properly,” she says, remembering the tears she had shed at the track. With only her owner’s manual and an occasional family friend for technical support, Vicki did all she could do to stay in the race. “I didn’t really know how it was going to go,” she says, “but it was either ride that bike or don’t race at all.” With the never-say-die attitude that has defined her career, Vicki collected herself. She not only competed that day, but won her race.

 

Over the next four years, Vicki continued to push herself outside her comfort zone. In 2008, she became the Loretta Lynn’s AMA Women’s Amateur Champion. The following year, she turned pro at age 17 and won the TransWorld Motocross Magazine’s Women’s MX Rookie of the Year. However, she also suffered a crash that brought her inaugural season to a staggering halt. With a collapsed lung, a lacerated liver, and an assortment of other injuries, this was the beginning of yet another theme in the Vicki Golden story – the pendulum swing between breaking records and breaking bones.

The peaks and valleys of Vicki’s career continued. In 2011 she took gold in the Summer X Games’ Women’s MX Racing, was the first woman to break the top 10 in AMA Arenacross Lites Main, and became the first woman to qualify for an AMA Arenacross Premier Class night show. She also tore her anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) and medial collateral ligament (MCL), resulting in the loss of both ligaments in her left leg. In 2012 and 2013, she won her second and third consecutive gold medals in the Summer X Games’ Women’s MX Racing. However, she suffered additional injuries to her head, leg, ankle, and shoulder while leading up to her 2014 season.

 

Still, Vicki pushed on indomitably, setting aside fear and placing full trust in building her muscle memory. “Fear is a mental barrier that has to be broken,” Vicki says. “I know I can do it, so why would I let my brain convince me otherwise?” 

Rather than let her injuries faze her, Vicki threw herself head-first into training. “On Monday I would ride, and Tuesday I would train,” Vicki says. “Then on Tuesday or Wednesday I would fly to the East Coast. From there I would have a couple of press days starting at 3 or 4 in the morning, all the way to noon or the end of the day. Friday would be more press and bike prep, Saturday was the actual race, and Sunday was spent flying back to California. Every weekend that I didn’t qualify, I went home and worked harder, which was the opposite of what I should have been doing.”

In the midst of the 2014 season, Vicki’s daunting schedule began to take its toll. A slew of mysterious ailments emerged. Cold symptoms one week would be followed by nausea the next, then by problems with her memory, her focus, and her mood. This was more than mere exhaustion, yet nearly a full year would pass before Vicki could find a medical explanation. Still, she did not stop. “I was digging myself a bigger and bigger hole,” she admits, although she did not know it at the time.

 
 

At the penultimate round of the season, Vicki received bloodwork results that were nothing short of life-altering. She had developed Epstein-Barr, a virus that plagues extreme athletes, including Olympians, who overtrain. “My body was so shut down that I slept 20 to 24 hours a day,” Vicki says. “It was a slow process to get blood work, see how numbers look, to sit and do nothing for months on end with lots of IV treatments to speed things along.”

A period of self-reflection passed over Vicki’s life as she was forced to let go of the pressures and pace to which she had become accustomed. “It was extremely frustrating,” Vicki says. “If you break your arm, it’s pretty obvious, and the doctor will give you a fix and a timeline of what it will take to get back on the bike. With Epstein-Barr, it’s completely silent. You don’t know what’s going on, and when you find out, you don’t know what you can do about it.”

 

Vicki tiptoed through recovery, terrified of overexerting herself and triggering the “couch potato hole” that she had found herself in. She used the 2015 Costa Rica nationals as a testing ground for her rehabilitation, and after dealing with a second bout of severe Epstein-Barr, she eventually found herself back in the Monster Energy AMA Supercross stadium. But Vicki had come face to face with the limit that she had pushed for so many years, and she knew something had to change.

“It was a learning curve switching from racing to freestyling,” Vicki admits. “I knew I couldn’t race and put in the effort that I wanted to, so it was time to move on.” No longer measured by lap times, freestyle motocross brought a new slate of challenges for Vicki. “I had that racer style that doesn’t quite work for tricks,” she explains. “You’re trying to stay low and suck into the bike for racer style, but when you’re a freestyle rider, you want to get away from the bike as much as possible.”

 

Vicki knew that her secret weapon would be the diligence with which she had always approached her preparation, albeit with a newfound recognition of her limitations. “It’s tough in our sport because I think you need to have ‘it,’ but there are also athletes who have ‘it’ and still need that work and repetition,” explains Vicki. “I think that’s me. I need repetition to really grasp something, but once I have the start, I know where to go. Once I develop that skill and ability, I just have to learn how to use it.”

Vicki still worked out regularly, but her training now incorporated a stricter diet, and more attention to rest periods. Freestyle MX and, eventually, freeriding also introduced Vicki to a community that prioritized camaraderie over competition, which helped to elevate her riding even further. “On the racing side,” she explains, “everything’s kept secret. You don’t really talk to or help people outside of your own team. But the freeriding community is more of a family thing. If you called another athlete and were struggling with a trick, they would give the shirt off their back to help you out.”

 
 

Just as Vicki was finding her rhythm in the freestyling world, she was confronted once again with debilitating obstacles. In 2017, her father passed away, and in 2018, she suffered an accident that nearly ended her career. During a freestyle trick on a concrete floor, Vicki’s wheel spun from beneath her, causing her to fall and shatter her right heel in multiple places. “It was a pivotal moment for me,” Vicki says. “I was mentally tapped out on surgery, since your pain receptors heighten as you get more surgeries. Even getting the IV put in before a surgery was kind of grueling.”

This crash meant yet another year on the couch for Vicki, who developed compartment syndrome and an infection in her heel, and came dangerously close to having her leg amputated. “That one left me at a point where I was reconsidering riding,” says Vicki, “but when I thought about it, I knew it wouldn’t make a difference if I quit or not. I’d still have to do all the therapy to get back to walking. Once you start walking, then you have hope.”

 

Thankfully, Vicki’s doctors found a solution that avoided further surgeries. She was able to not only keep her leg, but to continue to compete. She resumed her record-breaking streak and, in New Zealand, performed a backflip off the 15-foot Next Level ramp, making her the only woman to flip one of the largest FMX ramps in the world. In 2019, she broke the firewall record on the History Channel show “Evil Live 2,” riding through 13 flaming boards – an accomplishment “where other people think it’s cooler than I did,” Vicki admits. And in 2020, to Vicki’s own surprise, she was invited to ride amongst the best-of-the-best in the first annual Red Bull Imagination freeriding event.

For the first time in her illustrious career, however, Vicki began hedging her bets. She now realized that longevity and legacy are as important as winning medals. “I don’t want to be in a spot where riding’s done and I’m like, ‘shoot, what do I do now?’” Vicki says.

 

In 2021, Vicki began allocating some of her energy toward business, becoming an owner of the MX goggle company Onium. While this shift brought promise for Vicki’s future, it also has brought a sense of uncertainty that is all but new to this champion rider. “It’s like being a kid with your first party, and you don’t know if people are gonna show up,” says Vicki. “But people are stoked on the product, and it’s cool when you see people want to be in the company just because you’re a part of it.”

Vicki also has begun putting herself out there in the women’s riding community, an area to which she’s had limited exposure except in competition. Last year, she taught the Over and Out (OAO) Moto Camp, experiencing for the first time an all-women’s moto campout. “I never really understood the whole women’s-only camp thing,” Vicki admits. “I was skeptical and thought it was a little corny. I grew up around males my whole life, and I never realized that if a girl asks a dumb question, the guy will laugh, and the girl will get embarrassed and not want to do it anymore.”

 
 

OAO opened Vicki’s eyes to what it’s like for women getting into the sport later in life. She witnessed firsthand a woman struggling to start her own bike, and then stalling it immediately after she got it running. Contrary to the judgment, gawking, and laughter to which Vicki had grown accustomed over the years, she watched as another woman helped and encouraged the rider. “It was something super special that I never thought about or understood,” says Vicki. “Guys and girls learn differently, and I was so desensitized to it that I realized, oh, this is what they need: someone to help them learn without the pressure.”

“Women want to be women,” Vicki continues, “and to do what they want in the way that they want. I immediately hopped into this idea of things and want to be a part of it.”

Vicki also discovered that she had something unique to bring to the women’s grassroots riding community: proper MX training. “I noticed that a lot of women were not getting taught all the right steps in the right order,” Vicki recalls. “Even after a group lesson of just 10 minutes, I had so many women come up to me and say, ‘I’ve been riding for 5 years, and no one’s told me that.’”

 

While Vicki continues to diversify her resume, she is not yet ready to leave the competitive arena. She still pushes herself to the limit, only now she knows where the limit is. She still feels frustrated when she does not perform to her own standards, but she brings with her a perspective that can only come from a career’s worth of trial and error. “I get defeated when I’m not doing well results-wise,” she says, “but I have to take a step back and realize there is no one else that I can beat higher. Beyond where I’m at, there really isn’t anyone else to compete with.”

On competition day at this year’s Imagination event, Vicki hits the lip of a jump, catches an extreme gust of wind, and goes sailing into the trees. “I didn’t mean to go into the woods,” she jokes, “but we ended up there anyway. You’ve always got to get creative, and I guess I just did a little extra.” Her injuries are not debilitating, but Vicki considers the accidents she’s had this year so far and the competitions that she has ahead of her. With the sagacity of a seasoned professional, Vicki makes the tough decision to withdraw from today’s event. “It’s a bummer,” Vicki admits, “but I hit my personal goals for this week, and that’s really what matters.”

 

Whether Vicki competes at this event, or the next, or any in her upcoming program, nothing can change the trail that she has blazed in this sport, for women and otherwise. This is something that even Vicki has come to accept of herself. “It’s really humbling to look back at where I started and to see where I am now,” Vicki says. “I kind of just embrace it more now because I’m in a really good spot in my career and my life.”

In stark contrast to her early career, Vicki is finally at peace with letting go of the need to prove herself. This shift has not only had an impact on her physical health, but also on her personal life. “I kind of started noticing enjoying things,” Vicki says, “like getting to enjoy time with my boyfriend, family, and friends. I’d neglected it for so long when it was all dirt bikes all the time.”

 
 

“Gnarly Vicki” has been pushing the limit and inspiring riders for years, but now she hopes her fans will take away another lesson from her story. “The biggest thing is that dirt bikes aren’t everything,” she advises. “They’re a huge part of somebody’s life – and of my life – but I see a lot of kids get heartbroken because they didn’t win. I see a lot of moto parents who put too much pressure on kids because of how much money they’ve spent. But it’s a family sport, so take it for what it is. It’s about having fun. Just enjoy it, because that’s the whole point.”

Zye Norris: Living & Dreaming in Noosa

THE LIFE AND TIMES OF ZYE NORRIS

Words by Phil Jarratt | Photography by Harrison Mark

 

On the afternoon of October 5 in California – the morning of October 6 on the other side of the Pacific – while longboarding superstar Harrison Roach was streaking toward his first world title at Surfrider Beach, Malibu, his best surfing buddy and soul-brother was stomping around on a rough-as-guts building site on the outskirts of surf town Noosa, phone in hand, issuing orders to his site workers while watching the world title go down to the wire.

At one point, Zye Norris moved away from the guys pushing barrows and digging trenches and put the phone to his face as he watched Roach take off on a bomb. “Come on Harry, you got this!” He repeated the mantra until Roach kicked out in the shore break and was awarded another score in the excellent range. Yes, he had this!

 

If ever there were a testament to the power of transoceanic positive thinking, this was it. Not that Noosa’s Harry Roach needed positive affirmations from afar to win the world title he had been eyeing for years, but it spoke volumes about the kind of loyalty to his clan that Harry has always dished out, and the way it is reciprocated in kind. And from no one more than Zye Norris. There is also another element to this. Their places that October day could easily have been traded.

Both Harrison and Zye, three years his junior, are brilliant all-round surfers, and elegantly powerful longboarders. While it might be argued that Harrison has the edge in consistency and a better mindset for big events, he has also struggled for years to focus on the will to pull on a colored jersey and perform on demand, rather than jumping on a bike and riding through the night to surf a remote reef on the edge of a jungle. Happy-go-lucky Zye was just starting to regain his contest mojo when COVID intervened, but he had still done enough to qualify for the 2022 WSL Longboard Tour. 

Sitting on a sofa overlooking the Noosa River and sipping a beer, still in his dirty work gear at the end of a hard day that began with watching the world title go down, Zye is philosophical. “Potentially I could have done the tour this year but getting the time off would have been very difficult. Then I thought about flying over just to be there for Harry. Watching it this morning, all I could think was, wish I’d gone! But no regrets, not about any of it really.”

Born in Noosa in 1994, Zye and older brother Ezra grew up surrounded by the strong surfing culture of Sunshine Beach, a now-stylish beachside Noosa precinct where most surfers have long been priced out of the market by sun-seeking billionaires. But back then it was affordable and family-oriented, and it was surf city. Just down from the Norris house were the Roach family and the Bidens, whose patriarch was local postman Peter “Biddo” Biden. As the neighborhood kids began to take an interest in surfing, Biddo became unofficial coach.

On days when there were likely to be waves on the Noosa points, Biddo would rouse his own boys, Fraser and Harrison (there were a lot of Harrisons going around at the time; must have been a “Raiders of the Lost Ark” thing), before dawn, then jump in his rusty old VW Transporter and do the rounds, knocking on bedroom windows at the Roach house and the Norris’ to gather up the gang. All manner of surfboards would be thrown in the back on top of Biddo’s 12-foot point enforcer, the kids would pile in on top of all that, and off they’d go.  

Zye recalls: “The routine of us all going surfing together in Biddo’s van seems like it was every day when I look back on it. It wasn’t, of course, because we did go to school, mostly, but it stands out as the memory of my childhood. We’d go to First Point with as many different boards as we could fit in. We’d surf all day, trying out different boards and different stuff, and some nights we’d be sitting there wondering where the hell Biddo was, and then you’d see him paddling into the beach an hour after dark.”

He continues, “Our parents were always cool with it, though. They encouraged us and didn’t care if we played hooky from school to go surfing. In fact, I think that had something to do with me wanting to become a tradie [tradesman]. Every time we wagged school, the tradies would be the only other surfers out there. They’d say, ‘Why aren’t you at school?’ And we’d say, ‘Why aren’t you at work?’, and all have a laugh.” 

But it wasn’t all about surfing. When Zye was about eight years old, his dad, Owen Norris, took him and Ezra down to the local bike shop and bought them a 1984 Yamaha YZ 60 to share. “To be honest, we were shit-scared of it at first. It was all Dad’s idea, and we just came home with this thing, and Mum looked at him like he was crazy.”

Owen Norris is a wild-eyed kind of guy who’s game for anything, but there is also a very gentle side to him. It’s the kind of yin and yang you often see in Zye. And sure enough, the bike was a good call. The boys learned how to ride it, and for Zye riding became a lifelong passion.

Although there were always plenty of shorties in the quiver in the back of Biddo’s van, it being Noosa, longboards were the usual craft of choice for the Sunshine Beach gang, with five long, tapering point breaks to choose from, each of them perfect for extended nose-rides. Biddo and other older locals introduced the boys to the delights of riding surfboards at least twice as old as they were, using such techniques of bygone eras as drop knee and soul arch turns, and walking rather than shuffling.

As his buddy Harrison Roach would write of Zye a few years later in The Yak: “He is 20 years old and revered as one of most stylish longboarders in the world, but before now he’s never had much of a rep for his achievements on the shorter sides of surfing … hell, he’d hardly even gone left at the start of this year.”

But the rounding of Zye Norris as a surfer was coming. At 14, he made his first overseas surf trip, going to Bali with the family of a schoolfriend. Here he did go left, on a shortboard at Bingin on the Bukit peninsula, almost got barreled, and has the photo to prove it. But you’ll never see it. “I’m sort of almost in the barrel, but I’m wearing booties and boardies! What a kook! I’ve never worn booties since,” Zye confesses.  

In 2010, Zye, Ezra and Owen were all members of a Noosa Malibu Club team trip to the Malibu Surfing Association annual clubs contest at First Point, Malibu. This was Zye’s first taste of California and of traveling to compete. He instantly loved both, but moreover, he suddenly realized that he had friends all over the longboarding world. For several years both he and Ezra had been competing in the junior boys’ divisions at the Noosa Festival of Surfing, befriending kids from California, Hawaii and even Europe, who would sometimes stay with the Norris family. What he hadn’t realized was that this was a reciprocal deal, that he was equally welcome in his friends’ homes. That sense of a global surfing family has never left him.

At the end of 2011, Zye left school and began a carpentry apprenticeship under builder Paul Winter, another Noosa Mal Club member. This was a fortunate turn of events because, although Zye had to toe the line, his boss well understood the importance of a Coral Sea swell and would make appropriate allowances. Just a few months into the apprenticeship, Zye, just 17, won the open noserider event at the Noosa Festival. Up against the best in the world, Zye, built like a stick, just walked casually to the nose every wave, hung ten toes over it and stayed there for an unbelievably long time. It was the performance of the festival, and won him a trophy, some cash and his first sponsorship, from the Deus Ex Machina operation in Bali.

In 2013 he went back to Bali to do some promotional work for Deus and to compete in their Nine Foot and Single contest. The Deus ethos, then and now, is all about boards and bikes, in no particular order, so it was to be expected that at some point Zye would be asked: “Can you ride a motorcycle?” His response, “Been riding them all my life,” may have been taken initially with a grain of salt, but he soon proved himself, thrashing through the jungle at speed or taking on Bali’s numerous motocross tracks. Deus fit Zye Norris like a glove.

When he finished his apprenticeship in 2014, he accepted a Deus offer to live and work in Bali for the season, appearing in the brand’s promo videos. Thus began what seemed to Zye the perfect lifestyle, living in Canggu, hanging out with Noosa and other California friends, riding dirt bikes and surfing perfect waves in what turned out to be an epic first full season in Indo.

Zye’s first assignment was to accompany Harry Roach and Deus boss and filmmaker Dustin Humphrey on a bike and surf trip across the western end of the Indonesian archipelago. The product of the journey was called “South to Sian” and it was the adventure of a lifetime, with Harrison and Zye biking around crater lakes and surfing giant unknown pits on remote coasts. But it ended prematurely when Harrison dislocated his shoulder in the most painful way in South Sumatra, a seven-hour drive on rough tracks from help.

Back in Bali, Dustin Humphrey was encouraging his young son to participate in the local motocross tour and invited Zye to tag along. He recalls: “We met a bunch of local guys and started traveling with them and doing all these races. It’s all over Bali and Java, and it’s big. The best one was at a private compound with a world-class track that professional racer Agi Agassi had in Java. Competing was just for fun, like I was in the B or C class or something. But you’d go very, very fast, and that was when I had my biggest crash.

“It was a place about three hours up the West Coast of Bali in the hills,” he continues. “The course was built for small bikes, and the jumps were very short. I was on a full-sized bike, and after the first race Dustin and I agreed the track was too crazy. I didn’t want to get hurt, so I decided I wouldn’t race again that day, then they called me up and guess what, I just forgot all that and went for it. I was about second-to-last, and I came around a corner inside a guy, gave it a fistful and didn’t make the jump. I went to get up and couldn’t.”

Zye had broken his arm and smacked a big hematoma into his leg. After getting a splint on the leg and getting chucked into a van to head to the local hospital, he recalls being wheeled out onto the street and down the road to get an X-ray. “I stayed there overnight and these scooter accident victims were coming in with half a face, just horrible,” he remembers. “I rang Dustin and told him he had to get me out. The surgery I needed was going to cost $10,000 or more so I flew home, had it done, spent Christmas with the family and went back. But I never raced again.”

The job at Deus stretched from three months to six months to two years, with Zye working on about a half-dozen hit branded videos. He loved it, but there was just one thing wrong: His best pal Harrison was the Deus star team rider whose brand assets matched Zye’s in almost every respect – all boarding, all biking, adventure-loving guys that the camera just loved. In other words, there was not much room for Zye to advance. He recalls: “It was great fun, but I wasn’t making much money, and every time I brought up the subject of a career path, the conversation would veer off somewhere else. So, I came home and started working as a carpenter.” In fact, in the years since, he completed his builder’s certificate.

The Noosa Festival of Surfing had already given Zye many blessings, but perhaps the biggest was in 2015, when he noticed a beautiful woman out on the town in Noosa with Hawaii’s junior star Honolua Blomfield. Zye edged closer, but she backed away and started walking briskly toward her rented apartment. At the next festival, Zye did better with Sierra Lerback, a stylish longboarder from Maui. In fact, by the time it ended, they were an item.

For the next couple of years, it was a long-distance love affair, meeting up every few months on Maui or Bali or in Noosa. Nice work if you can get it, but finally they realized it wasn’t financially sustainable. Zye says, “We kinda went, what do we do now?” They were married in Noosa in 2019, and made their home in the hinterland, where this year they bought their first house, surrounded by parks and forestry and less than an hour to the surf.

Sierra comes from a motorcycling family, so tucked away in Zye’s garage full of boards and bikes is her Husqvarna 250, a step up from the 1980s XT 250 he bought her when she arrived. Surrounded by trails, they both take advantage of where they live, but surfing is still a major part of the equation, with Sierra now sponsored by Deus and taking out the men in mixed-gender events in Noosa and Byron Bay this year.

And while Zye is pretty serious about his career as a master builder, he’s also signed a new sponsorship deal this year with Noosa-born surf champ Julian Wilson’s new brand, Rivvia Projects, with its focus on motorcycle and surf lifestyle, adding that to his Triumph Australia ambassadorship, inked in 2021.

And so the adventure continues.

Range of Light

RIDING FAST AND LIVING SLOW IN THE EASTERN SIERRA

Words by Ben Giese | Photography by Drew Martin

Cinematography by Kasen Schamaun | Soundtrack by John Ryan Hebert | In collaboration with Danner

 

The punishing late-summer sun beats down on the back of my neck as the rev-limiter on my XR650 screams for dear life. I have no speedometer on this machine, but I’m clicking through the gears with the throttle twisted to the stop as we skim across the soft desert basin at full speed. Faster and faster into the 110-degree furnace just north of Death Valley. There is no town, no cell service, no shade and not a cloud in the sky for miles. One mistake out here would be a disaster, but if we can just ride fast enough, and far enough, we can find salvation in the mountains ahead.

I’m holding my breath through the endless cloud of dust as I chase five other crazy riders ripping flat-out into the badlands like a pack of wild coyotes. Their silhouettes warp and distort behind a distant mirage, dancing and shifting across the horizon like some strange heroes of the desert. But there are no heroes out here. No egos. Just new friends, old bikes, good vibes and five days to kill exploring the beautiful Eastern Sierra.

 

It all started back in the spring with a text from my buddy Drew Martin, a photographer from Huntington Beach, California, who had been quietly mapping out a dream route up Highway 395 into the heart of the Eastern Sierra. Drew has been exploring this region for as long as he can remember, discovering epic new locations with each adventure. His plan for this trip was to pack everything on the back of our bikes and connect a bunch of his favorite spots with hundreds of miles of remote dirt roads, camping all along the way. 

In Drew’s words, “It’ll be a dream trip for the crew, with swim holes, creek crossings, epic high-elevation views and fast low-valley roads. Big trees, no trees, hot springs, cool springs and some good eatin’ spots. There will surely be broken shit, makeshift replacement parts and the kitchen sink. We’ll sleep in the dirt, get lost and probably run out of gas. The whole deal.” I was sold.

So, Drew and I kept the conversation rolling, and by late summer we were finally meeting up with his band of Southern California misfits at a little burrito spot in the desert to kick off the ride. Joining us for the trip was Noah Culver, a film producer living in San Diego; Jay Reilly, a photographer and director based in Carlsbad; and the roommates from Oceanside, Alex Ritz and Johnny Russy, who both work as motorcycle adventure guides and photographers. 

Looking at this crew was like flashing back in time. They were all dressed to the nines in a cool vintage style, with fun-loving attitudes to match. A real run-what-you-brung kind of group that cares more about having a good time than having fancy equipment. It’s rare to find such like-minded people, and it’s truly special to get the chance to share an unforgettable experience like this together. 

We kicked off the ride at the hottest time of the day, during the hottest part of the summer, in the midst of an intense heat wave in the hottest part of the country. I’m not sure exactly what we were thinking – maybe we’ve all hit our heads a few too many times – but our bikes were pointed west toward the Sierra with the promise of higher altitudes and cooler temps. We were all sparkling clean and laced up in fresh Danner boots, but that wouldn’t last very long. Within a few miles, every inch of our bikes and bodies would be caked in dust, and the adventure we had been anticipating all summer was finally off and running.

The Sierra Nevada is home to several national parks, wilderness areas and national monuments. Those include Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States, as well as Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America, Yosemite, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon National Parks, and Devils Postpile National Monument, just to name a few. But as beautiful as those places are, we weren’t as interested in the mainstream attractions. We wanted to explore the lesser-known corners of the Eastern Sierra. The places you couldn’t find on a map. The spots you only hear about through word-of-mouth. We wanted to take the backroads, the long way through, far away from influencers, tour buses and gift shops.

I went into this with no idea about the kind of extreme elevation changes we were going experience on this trip, but for reference, Mount Whitney, which towers at an elevation of 14,505 feet, is only 85 miles away as the crow flies from the lowest point in North America, at 282 feet below sea level. On a route like this, you can expect to see five different life zones, each characterized by the completely unique plant and animal habitats at different elevations. From the hot and dry pinyon-sagebrush zone where we started, we would ride up through the lower and upper pine-forested montane zones, then eventually higher into the colder and more desolate subalpine and alpine zones.

Every passing mile was like a doorway into a new world. Like riding through the barren deserts of Arizona and suddenly being transported to the red rock canyons of Utah, then to the rolling green hills of Montana and eventually the rugged mountains of Colorado. And that vast diversity of terrain and climate is felt even more acutely when traveling on a bike, completely exposed to the world around you and at the mercy of the ever-changing elements. 

After some hot and dusty miles up the mountain and a few good swimming holes along the way, we arrived at our first camp spot just as the sun dipped below the horizon. An infinite blanket of stars lit up the sky as we set up camp and reflected on the beauty of the wilderness around us. There’s something magical about spending time the mountains. The crisp, clean air is healing somehow, and the smell of the pines just makes you feel at ease. We went to bed early that night as a gentle breeze washed over our bodies, and we drifted off into peaceful dreams to the sound of crickets.


Like the boots we wore on this trip?


There was an unfamiliar chill in the air when we woke up that next morning – a far cry from the heat of the desert the day before. I could sense the end of summer for the first time. The inevitable change of seasons that always reminds me how temporary this all is. Soon these mountains would be covered in snow, and we would be back in the grind of life at home. But for now, we can enjoy these golden moments before they float away like the leaves of autumn. We sat by the bikes and brewed some coffee, then walked over to a nearby hot spring to watch the sunrise and soak up the warmth of the earth. Just what the doctor ordered before another long day in the saddle.

We would spend that morning following Drew through more spectacular miles of remote forest roads, winding up and down the mountains through dense trees and vibrant wildflower meadows. Slower, tighter sections turned into high-speed dirt roads. The sky was blue, the birds were chirping, and we enjoyed this blissful ride until we arrived at another epic swimming hole near the town of June Lake. We would spend that afternoon on the lake, cheering and laughing like little kids as we flipped, flailed and belly-flopped off a rope swing. The sun was shining, the beers were flowing and the vibes were at an all-time high. There’s something nice about having nothing to do and nowhere to be, when you can simply sit back and watch the clouds float by. 

It would be another peaceful night sleeping under the stars. Another crisp morning in the mountains. Another delicious camp coffee. Another fun day of riding bikes with friends. Rinse and repeat. Life is so simple this way, when you can escape the money-machine and just breathe in the fresh air. When you can let go of the modern distractions that cause us so much anxiety and exist purely in the present moment. These thoughts really came to surface for me the following morning as we rode passed the historic ghost town of Bodie. The abandoned streets and decaying structures of the town felt like yet another reminder of how temporary this all is, and the importance of enjoying this moment. 

Our route back down the mountain was magnificent. We said goodbye to the pines and followed an endless and desolate road that snaked and carved its way through the vast and expansive landscape. The views were stunning, but you could feel the temperature begin to rise as we rode farther and farther into the depths of the desert, as 80 degrees became 90, 100, 110 – and beyond – into the land of the blazing sun.

At this point in the trip, Noah’s bike was sputtering, and he was giving it his all just to make it to our final destination. Johnny’s seat fell off somewhere along the way, and it was being held on by zip ties. My luggage rack broke, and my bags were about to fall off my bike, and I had a pair of vice grips clamped to my handlebars to replace a broken front brake lever. My lips were chapped, and my body was completely dried out as the scorching hot air sucked the last bit of moisture from my skin. The beauty and comfort of the mountains was now a distant memory, and the harshness of the desert began to take hold. It was back to survival mode. Ride as fast as you can, as far as you can. Overcome the discomfort, and the destination will be that much more rewarding.

Through some treacherous rock gardens and a few deep silt beds, we limped our bikes across the valley into our final camp spot. A tiny little oasis in the middle of nowhere, with a few large shade trees and a pond with fresh water flowing out of the ground. Drew came skidding in to a stop, jumped off his bike, stripped off his gear as fast as possible, and then sprinted to launch himself into the water with a big splash. Alex, Jay and I were laughing right behind him as we jumped in, and a few minutes later Johnny came rolling in with his shirt off and a celebratory “YEWWW!” 

We cracked open some cold beers and gave a cheers to an unforgettable ride around the Eastern Sierra. The sun began to set over the valley, and the hot brown hell around us came to life in a spectrum of vibrant color. Suddenly it felt like heaven, and as the peak of Mount Whitney was illuminated in bright pink in the background, I finally understood the nickname “Range of Light.” In the distance, we could see a golden plume of dust from a large herd of elk roaming through the valley. Noah told us how it was the last herd left in this region, and it made me think about this group of guys. A dying breed. Still wandering, exploring and hanging on to an old way of living.

I’m so thankful that my motorcycle has introduced me to these people, and that we could share this time together, away from the nerve-shaken world. That we had this opportunity to step back, breathe, live simply, and enjoy some unforgettable moments in the Eastern Sierra.

Old Horses, New Adventure

A MEXICAN JOURNEY ON VINTAGE BIKES

Words by Quentin Franco | Photography by Matt Cherubino

In collaboration with Deus Ex Machina

 

It was sometime between my last high-speed front-flip and seeing the carcass of a mangled motorcycle in my garage that I began to wonder if riding a 400-pound Triumph across the Mexican desert might not be the best idea. After all, my latest racing “stunt” had cost me a perfectly good helmet and a concussion that wiped the month of April off the calendar. 

At that point, some would have said enough was enough with the old bike, but I still couldn’t shake the idea that there was more to be attempted on my 1972 Triumph Tr6C. These were the glorified machines Bud Ekins and Steve McQueen raced. In their day, whether it was dirt track or desert scrambles, these were the bikes to beat. Surely, the old girl deserved another try, right? I mean it wasn’t the bike’s decision to hit a bush at 50 mph, was it? So, as someone who likes learning a lesson the hard way, I bent my bike back into submission, dumped a few more quarts of oil in it, and got the call from Forrest Minchinton.

 

It did not take long to talk me into it. In fact, all he really needed to say was “Mexico,” and I was in. You see, for us California boys, south of the border has always been the promised land. The roads flowed with ice-cold Tecate, handed out by the most beautiful women, and every point down the coast seemed to hide its own treasure trove of waves. That, and you could eat yourself sick with tacos and ride your motorcycle in any direction you pointed the handlebars. At least that’s the romantic version of Mexico. The reality, however, is that the promise of ultimate freedom and lawlessness usually sucks in the most gullible of gringos and bites them in the ass. Lucky for me, I would be riding south with two other experienced two-wheeled cowboys.

By this point in life, Minchinton has probably logged more hair-raising seat time on a motorcycle than most of us could ever dream of. A native Spanish speaker, he cut his teeth riding waves and bikes all across Latin America, making him the de facto leader of this harebrained trip. Then there was Reid Harper, a lifelong buddy of mine. A second-generation stuntman in Hollywood, the guy is so smooth in just about everything he does you could get yourself in way over your head just trying to keep up. As far as my own experience goes, my successes were usually measured in how much abuse I could take. But like I said before, I seem to enjoy doing things the hard way. And that’s exactly what this trip was: Mexico – the hardest way possible. 

It wouldn’t be the terrain that got us; we all knew that well enough. Nor would it be the threat of sitting in some Ensenada holding cell for running stop signs – those are rookie mistakes. For the three of us, this trip was going to be a test of who had the best-running, least-rattling and oil-leaking, easiest-on-the-spine, fifty-plus-year-old British bike. In that department, Harper usually won. Having put his bike in the garage after winning the vintage class at a recent desert race – the same one where I front-flipped – I was pretty sure he would show up with polished chrome and a perfectly running machine. Per usual, my bike was more of a disaster. The lovable but devious oil-in-frame model had been in pieces and mysteriously losing power since our last dance together. But I was semi-confident she’d run for at least most of the trip. I hoped. Then there was Minchinton’s bike, which was literally in pieces as we rolled up to his garage. With his typical laid-back approach, he threw on the few remaining parts, and off we went. Three experienced motorcycle riders, with way more common sense than to attempt to ride vintage Triumphs through a land that swallows modern factory-built race bikes.

The usual border crossing was a breeze, and as we hit the toll road down the Pacific this trip had all the telltale signs that it was going to be one for the books. A few tacos and a mandatory surf check later, we opened the doors and unloaded the old girls. On the outskirts of beautiful Baja wine country, we topped off the fuel and kicked the tires for an air pressure check. We slid on our open-face helmets (our teeth be damned) and threw our legs over the ancient steeds. Throwing a few shakas at the locals and dodging the street dogs that would inevitably try to gnaw our boots off the minute we rode away, we settled in for the first leg of the trip.

We hit the dirt with one goal, to reach the Pacific Ocean. Riding three-wide, we slid the old Triumphs around every slick corner we could find. Through winding mountain roads, past cattle ranches and lush overgrown patches of trees. Only an hour into the trip it felt like we were having our very own “On any Sunday” moment. The British Triplets, singing in harmony and churning up every rock in sight. We were having so much fun we didn’t even have time to think about the rapidly setting sun.

I’d been out in Baja at night before, but that was on a modern bike with headlights that could be seen from miles away. On the Triumphs, putting out enough voltage for some shitty Lucas halogens is a struggle enough – forget expecting them to actually light up the road ahead. So, as we cruised toward the shining beacon of the coast, I reached down and flicked on my light. I sat back and let the dim little flashlight lead the way until I hit the first real bump in the road, and it rattled loose. I’d be operating the light by hand from here on out, like a spotlight in a storm. Nothing better than riding one-handed in the dark, right? With Minchinton and Harper beginning to pull away, I aimed my headlight and took off after them as we crested the highest point of the valley and caught our first glimpse of the ocean. With the moonlight dancing across the midnight blue of the Pacific, we pointed our front wheels downhill and jockeyed for position toward her.

I sat for a moment and smelled the sea. It felt necessary to stop and take it all in. For surfers and riders alike, the sheer access to untainted coastline like this was nothing short of a miracle. But my romantic moment of reflection would be short-lived as I watched the dueling headlights of Minchinton and Harper blow past me and traverse the steep, boulder-ridden downhill to the coast. Dodging hidden rocks, ruts and the occasional lost cattle, every obstacle feels consequential on these old bikes. Maybe that’s what makes them so thrilling to ride. Just making it to your destination feels like you’ve earned something. In our case it would be a hot dinner and a few stiff drinks to wash away the dust. 

Following the scent of fresh-brewed coffee, and thinking I was ahead of the game, I walked outside the following morning and found the boys already getting after it. Minchinton, having fallen asleep upright on a couch, was up and ready to jump on the bikes. Harper was checking his beloved machine for any issues, and I figured I’d at least lube my chain and see from what new places oil was escaping. The day’s agenda: Hit the coast and head south. So, we fired up the old gals and rolled out – for a few feet – until we discovered Harper’s sudden gearbox issue. She wouldn’t roll. Not wanting to burn an entire day trying to fix it, we pushed him to the top of the nearest hill we could find. Clicking through gears, trying to bump it, Harper got all the way up into fourth before she would light up. Not wanting to risk another stall, he took off ahead.

Minchinton took the lead, and we chased him into the dirt. Alongside the ocean, we dove in and out of sandy singletracks, throwing the bikes around with ease. We wheelied between each other, jumped any whoop or dirt pile in sight, and battled our way out of town and toward miles of virgin beach. At speed, Harper’s bike was back in the mix, and Minchinton’s 500cc single was humming along and keeping pace with the 650s. Our second day on the bikes was looking like it would eclipse the first. We were fresh, and the machines were holding their own. Then I rounded the next corner and cracked the throttle back, and my bike sputtered to a dead stop. I watched helplessly as Harper and Minchinton drifted away from me. 

I pulled my tool roll from my bike and dropped it into the dirt to take a better look. The good news? I had a few fresh spark plugs to test, minus one spark plug wrench. The boys whipped back around to come lend a hand, not having much help in the tool department. With a pair of pliers that barely fit, we backed the plug out and surveyed the issue. What do you know: no spark. Checking a few other could-be culprits, my poor bike appeared to be dead in the water. We gave it one last go and attempted another bump-start. As we kicked it into second, she sputtered and clanked, and just when all hope was lost, my engine roared back to life. I couldn’t believe it. Not wanting to waste a second chance, I turned around and raced past the fellas and aimed for the nearest highway. If shit hit the fan again, at least I could bum a ride into the nearest town, instead of being stranded on some desolate cow trail.

With all the bikes needing some love, we dragged them into a familiar garage of a friendly American expat and did our best mechanic impersonations. Minchinton and Harper got to work on some clutch adjustments while I tore my bike apart, trying to figure out why she insisted on stranding me again. Time was measured in crushed beer cans and shit talk until the sun started setting, and we slapped the bikes back together for a little test run. Harper took off, Minchinton got his bike running, and I prayed to whatever gods that this damn bike would run. She rose from the dead, and I wasted no time in punishing the fragile machine. We banged bars across sections of an old racecourse, lumbering through silt beds and blowing out sandy corners. For all the headaches they occasionally caused, these bikes were unbelievably fun to ride. 

The next day was one of those rides you had to have been on to believe. From the sea, the center of the Baja peninsula rises 10,000 feet to the top of breathtaking peaks. Dusty and dried-out cactus give way to staggering pine forests and views like no other. With the bikes breathing clean air for the first time on the trip, the boys flowed effortlessly through the curves, without a car in sight. 

On the edge of the highway, we stumbled upon a perfectly graded dirt track, used by the locals for the occasional “run what you brung” style of auto racing. Were we really going to get to pitch bikes sideways, Mert Lawwill-style, in the middle of nowhere? Mexico fucking rules. 

Harper and Minchinton rolled down onto the track to take a better look, and I walked down to the starting line to stage a race between them. Regardless of where you put him, Minchinton is always going to find some way to compete on a motorcycle. Harper was ready to take his shot at the champ. I stood between the two oil-soaked machines. The engines revved wildly, and their eyes focused up ahead. Fingers trembled slightly on clutch levers, ready for the drop of the flag. I reached up and pulled off my cowboy hat, lowering it slowly toward the ground. I bent at the knees, and in one fluid motion hurled my hat into the sky. The dust cloud engulfed me as they took off toward the first corner. Lap after lap, I watched my buddies pitch their Triumphs sideways, battling for the lead. The corners appeared a bit rougher than they looked, as the rear ends danced and stood the boys up from time to time, but there was no stopping them. The sun dropped into the sea yet again and backlit the golden plumes of dust that drifted away from each corner that they slid through. Oh, the places you can go with a motorcycle and a few friends…

On the final day of our ride, my cowboy boots dangled from the truck bed of a lime green Suzuki Samurai, and I was really beginning to ponder my recent life choices. Armed with a Super 8mm camera in one hand and bracing for dear life with the other, I shot some frames of Minchinton and Harper as they ripped up the coast one final time. Heading northbound to document the last remnants of our trip, Minchinton turned on the charm with his suave Spanish and made friends with a local mechanic, recruiting him for the lucrative role of a hired camera car driver. For a few beers and some cash, the fella blew off Mother’s Day with the family and threw a few gringos he just met into his beloved chariot. At speed, the little Suzuki was a far more terrifying ride than that of the Triumphs, especially as we bounced over rocks and ruts a mere few feet from the coastal cliffs.

Eating dust behind us, Minchinton and Harper labored the tired machines toward home. Taking a break to avoid the nausea of Mr. Toad’s wild ride, I watched from above as the boys drew giant figure eights on a desolate beach below. Their tires dug deep ruts into the sand as they shot roost across the beach at each other. A few feet away, as the waves crashed onto land, the high tide slowly took back the temporary scars left by churning wheels. Seagulls dove into the sea, the Suzuki Samurai drifted gracefully across the sand, and atop the sea cliff, I took in the show with pure awe. It didn’t seem possible to do all the things we had done on this trip on these bikes. The local coffee shop runs and weekend rides with the girlfriend back home would never be the same. After Mexico, riding the Triumphs anywhere else besides the beaches, the mountains, or on private dirt tracks would be mundane.

Fifty-something years after the first Triumphs made their mark down here south of the border, our British machines grabbed the torch and ran with it. This trip wasn’t a record-breaking tip-to-tip run or a Baja 1000 race for glory, but it was a watershed moment for all of us. These motorcycles were more than collectors’ items, doomed to sit under dusty covers in a garage. They were meant to be ridden and ridden hard. That’s why we came to Mexico. To test ourselves and our bikes, proving to those who said they wouldn’t survive that these relics could hold their own against a formidable opponent. I gained a deeper respect and admiration for the engineering of decades’ past. Vintage bikes bring a new perspective. They forced you to slow down a bit and see Baja with a fresh new set of eyes.

It felt like déjà vu looking at my bike in the garage, once again in pieces. It had been through hell and back in recent weeks. From racing across the California desert to slogging through countless miles of dirt, sand, and rocks. Minchinton put his 500cc single back in the garage, gave her a nice coat of WD-40, and set her aside. He’d grab another bike, pick a new destination, and begin his next two-wheeled adventure all over again. Harper wasted no time polishing his beauty back to her pre-Mexico glory, eager to resume his regular schedule of canyon rides and wreaking havoc across Malibu. With a growing parts list, I figured I’d take my time and give my bike the attention and respect she deserved. She’d earned it. A month prior, I could’ve been convinced to hang up the open face and sell the vintage bike. But after Mexico, I couldn’t wait to ride her again. I think I’ll crack open an ice-cold cerveza and get to work. The old gal and I have plenty more miles to go.

The Land of Fire and Ice

THE ETERNAL ROMANCE OF ICELAND

Photography by Tyler Ravelle | Words by Ben Giese

 

From the moment he was born in the cracks of the earth, his soul burned for her cold embrace. He would suffer through an eternity of fire and hell as his molten heart poured out into the bottom of the sea, but he never stopped reaching for the heavens. A place at the top of the world where she would be waiting to heal his wounds and cover up the scars of his past. Where they could dance in harmony for millions of years as she carved a beautiful new life around his rough edges. 

They would create a home full of enchantment, with black sand that sleeps under soft blankets of green and majestic peaks that sparkle off electric blue lakes. Where frozen days turn to midnight dreams under a luminescent sky. A place of timeless time, primordial and immortal. Endless and infinite. Where Mother Earth would paint her greatest masterpiece.

They lived there together in perfect harmony and lost themselves in eternal romance. His heart still brimmed with violent flames, but she always had a way of holding him close and cooling him down. He would be lost without her, and she promised her love would never end. But over time he began to notice a change in her body. She felt smaller somehow and seemed sick, as if the fever of the world was just too much. 

He gave her a shoulder to cry on as she withered and wept in rivers and waterfalls down the surface of his back, and he stood strong as her life slowly trickled out to sea. One day soon she will cry her last drop, and his heart will turn to stone. Alone in the North until he burns out and crumbles to dust. 

Nothing can last forever, so he’ll just have to cherish the precious time they have left. The final days of paradise, somewhere over the rainbow. The end of the ice.

 

Where Beauty & Terror Dance

MOTO SAFARI: COSTA RICA

Words by Ben Giese | Photography by John Ryan Hebert

 
 

Deeper into the jungle, our tires sink and slide through the muddy trail. Behind us, nothing but rutted tracks winding through a dark rainforest canopy. A Garden of Eden full of life, and a strange hell where death lurks around every corner. In the trees and beneath the murky waters. Hidden in the mist of the humid tropical air, monsters wait in the shadows. And those muddy tracks would be the only trace of our passage if something were to go wrong.

When we reached the edge of a sandy riverbank, I looked out at the water ahead and thought this would be the end of the road. After three days of riding through tropical storms, the heavy rains made for deep currents that stretched over 200 feet across. I sat in silence, listening to the slow thump of our bikes that matched the beating of my heart, and looked over at Forrest Minchinton, waiting to hear if he had a plan or knew of an alternate route. He paused for a moment, then turned to me and asked, “You ready?”

 
 
 
 
 

Without hesitation, I followed him into the depths. Haunting screams of howler monkeys echoed through the trees, like demons taunting our demise. They cried out a deep and horrible howl, a sound nightmarish enough to make the hair on the backs of our necks stand up. But my mind was elsewhere. I was thinking about the terror that might be swimming below. Ancient creatures of doom with soulless eyes and jaws of death. This region is home to one of the world’s largest populations of American crocodiles, which are known to frequent these coastal rivers. And that feeling of vulnerability in the presence of a prehistoric predator is a sobering reminder that we are not separate from this animal world. We are all part of the same cycle of life, and we will all be swept away down the river in time. But that would not be our fate today. Today we made it to the shore to share some high fives and laughs before continuing on our epic ride through Costa Rica.

 
 
 
 

I first met Minchinton in Bali back in 2016 on a trip with the crew from Deus Ex Machina. We spent two weeks riding the beaches and volcanoes of Indonesia, and immediately I knew that we would share a long road ahead. When our time in Bali came to a close, we imagined where the next great adventure might take us. He told me all about the magic Costa Rica has to offer. The lush rainforest and desolate beaches, the enchanted mountains and holy volcanoes, the endless trails and perfect waves. Minchinton spent the first five years of his life down there before moving to California, and to this day it’s essentially his second home. He knows the place well and promised the juice would be worth the squeeze.  I’ve been dreaming about it ever since. 

 
 
 
 

We’ve collaborated on several projects over the years, but life moves fast, and with the constant grind of work and a global pandemic, that next great adventure was still looming in the background. That is, until one day recently when Minchinton was in town and we met up at a bar in Denver, and he told me whispers of an upcoming motorcycle trip to Costa Rica. It was finally going to happen. And better yet, the ride would be organized by our friend Wesley Hannam, the mastermind behind Moto Safari — a motorcycle adventure company that curates dream riding experiences in some of the most exotic locations across the globe. With Hannam’s knowledge of ADV riding, Minchinton as our guide, and one of my best buds, John Hebert, capturing images along the way, I knew we had all the ingredients for a truly special experience.

 
 
 
 

Hannam and Minchinton mapped out seven days of dual-sport riding that would cover over 1,000 miles through Western Costa Rica. From our starting point in San Jose, we rode south into the mountains on a mixture of slippery dirt and rough asphalt roads carved into the steep hills. Sharp hairpin turns wound back and forth forever, like a seductive serpent luring us higher and higher, until we rose above the clouds and entered the heavens. We passed by small villages and beautiful coffee farms, raging rivers and powerful waterfalls. I looked up and saw the sun beaming through the mist in the vines, and all the worries of life at home – the bills and obligations, the emails and deadlines – melted away in the soft summer rain. A feeling of pure bliss and enchantment, surrounded by the eternal wisdom of the mountains. These are the moments we live for.


 
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Over the course of two days, those winding roads brought us down to the coast, and after a quick ferry ride across the Gulf of Nicoya, we reached the small surf town of Santa Teresa. Once a tiny fishing village, Santa Teresa is now dotted with fine restaurants, boutique retail stores and surf shops, along with our destination for the next two nights, The House of Somos — an outpost where riders, surfers and wanderers find refuge. Concrete and wood intertwine seamlessly with tropical plants throughout the contemporary structure, and within the bespoke rooms and bungalows, weary travelers can find rest. Downstairs, the Somos Café will provide nourishment from executive chefs who use only local produce, fresh meats and line-caught fish. 

It was a hidden paradise where the next 48 hours would dissolve into a swirl of laughter and delight. White-sand beaches where the sun always shines, and the waves are always peeling. Tacos and cerveza. Warm sun and a cool breeze. Slow days and wild nights. Pura vida, as they say. But good things can’t last forever, and comfort is not what we came for. The jungle of terror was calling.

 
 
 
 

After a few morning wheelies down the beach and a quick goodbye to our friends in Santa Teresa, we found a narrow road leading to the dense trees. Into the dark realm, where more sinister things were lying in wait. Fangs and venom. Teeth and claws. Lurching, slithering, creeping and crawling. A place where everything wants to kill you. Like the aggressive fer-de-lance pit viper, one of the many extremely venomous snakes. Or the Brazilian wandering spider, considered to be the most toxic spider in the world and powerful enough to kill a human with a single bite. Giant centipedes and bullet ants. Scorpions and poison frogs. Panthers and jaguars. Crocodiles. The list goes on. 

The farther you go, the rougher the road gets. The rivers get wider, the mud gets deeper, and the rocky hills get steeper. But good things never come easy, and if you can make it through hell, you just might find heaven. Keep pushing through the tangled vines and ghostly canyons, and eventually you’ll rise above the trees and enter the holy land. 

 
 
 
 

The sun sparkled off tiny droplets on my wet goggles, and the horrors of the jungle faded away in the rearview. We wandered higher, through the peaceful rolling hills where vibrant green grasslands peppered with black volcanic rock sleep in the shadow of majestic giants. Ancient volcanoes that rise into the clouds like fire-breathing gods. Timeless and eternal. The creators of the land, dancing with the rain, the giver of life. Some things are just too much for words, so all we could do was keep riding and rejoice in the rapture of the land.

The hours turned to days, and the precious time slipped through our fingers in an instant. We were all feeling exhausted by the end of the trip, but the final stretch of was easygoing. We enjoyed a hundred miles of endless twisting tarmac back down into San José. And as we crested one final hill and saw the city down in the valley, I thought about all the distance we had covered and all that we had witnessed along the way. The sun and the rain. The beaches and jungles. Costa Rica is a magical place, and if there’s one thing the stood out to me during our tropical moto safari, it was the innate connection we share with the animal world. The birds and the butterflies. The spiders and snakes. 

 
 
 

We’re all just trying to survive, and to thrive. And for us, that meant finding ourselves on the seat of a motorcycle in a strange land, far from home. Loving this world in all its beauty and terror. And rubbing shoulders with death, because that’s where we feel most alive.  

Thom Hill: The Land That Shaped Me

THOM HILL AND AN UNASSUMING CALIFORNIA SURF TOWN

Words by Chris Nelson | Photography by Dylan Gordon

 
 

It doesn’t start here, and it probably won’t end here, but most of Thom Hill’s story has played out against the impossibly beautiful background of the laid-back, blue-collar surf town of Ventura, California, which is located halfway between Malibu and Santa Barbara along the Pacific Coast Highway. Hill, the 55-year-old founder of Iron & Resin — a moto- and surf-inspired apparel and provisions brand with an enviably outfitted flagship store located on Ventura’s historic Main Street — says, “A place can have influence over you, what you do, your actions, your lifestyle, and how you think, and I get so much inspiration from this place. We can surf every morning, go for a mountain bike ride after work, and dive for lobster in the evening. We have islands literally outside our front door, a short boat ride away, with complete wilderness above and below the water. All those things together in one place is just magical.”

 
 
 
 

Ventura County split off from Santa Barbara County in the late 1800s after tapping into rich oil wells, and suddenly this small coastal city of Ventura was magnetic. Black gold and booming agriculture brought new interest to the area, and an eclectic mix of families flocked to nest in its neighborhoods. In the ’60s, if you walked down one street block, you could meet ranchers, roughnecks, surfers, firefighters, plumbers, policemen, or other down-to-earth, hardworking folks.

“Nearby Santa Barbara is a façade of Spanish architecture — a portrayal of what its residents want their city to feel like, which is fine — but Ventura is funky, rough around the edges, and I like that,” Hill says. “Most people you meet in Ventura were born here, their parents were born here, their grandparents were born here, and there are deep roots here that I think are important in any great community.” He witnessed how strong that community can be in late 2017, when one of the biggest fires in modern California history burned through Ventura and nearby cities, and he watched as his 100,000 neighbors came together to help one another. “Ventura is the first place I’ve been in California that feels like home,” Hill says.

 
 
 
 

If you understand where he comes from, it makes sense he ended up in “Ventucky,” because it’s sort of a hick farm sanctuary for surfers. Hill grew up in a bumpkin town outside of Raleigh, North Carolina, called Apex, which has since been swallowed by a sprawling metropolitan area. He fondly remembers his family cabin in the mountains, where he’d ride the Honda Trail 70 that his grandpa bought him at the age of eight, and he spent a lot of his time on the Atlantic Coast, surfing the sandbars of the Outer Banks. “Back then all I wanted to do when I graduated high school was go to college someplace where I could surf, and I didn’t really care where that was,” Hill admits.

When he woke up in his dorm at UC Santa Barbara, he’d sit up in bed, look out his window, see a perfect right-hand point break, and know exactly what he was doing that day. “I realized that all the things I loved as a kid ended up being in one place after I came to California,” Hill says. “The mountains come straight down to the ocean. In the morning, you can go surf, and in the afternoon, you can play in the snow, or vice versa. How is that even possible?”

 
 
 
 

As an undergraduate, Hill studied economics because he thought it sounded grown up, and double-majored in environmental studies, simply because he so admires the outdoors. So, when he graduated in 1990, he had no idea what to do. All he knew was that he didn’t want to work at Apple, where he had interned for the past three summers. “I got offered an amazing job right out of school, paying me more money than I’d ever know what to do with as a college grad, and they were going to relocate me to Austin,” Hill says. “But the expectation was that when you went to work there, you were going to dedicate your life to that place, and it was a huge turnoff for me. So I turned it down to stay in Santa Barbara and surf.”

Still, Santa Barbara didn’t fit right for Hill, so he moved south along U.S. 101 to an affordable beach community called La Conchita, which is about 15 miles up from Ventura. Hill found middling work as a graphic designer at an ad agency, until he stumbled across a guy who was packing up a commercial screen-printing setup to put in storage, and everything changed. Hill had always been interested in screen printing, even though he knew next to nothing about it. He had saved up $5,000 for a car, so he impulsively offered it to the guy, who accepted, and went home with a shop’s worth of professional screen-printing equipment that he had to store in his carport.

 
 

“When people talk about burning the boat, I burned the boat to the water, and the boat sank, and there was nothing left, so I had to make it work,” Hill says. “I was engaged to get married, and I didn’t even talk to my future wife about it. I called my boss and quit my job that day, because a light bulb went off: I could work for myself and be free.”

He adds, “I mean, how hard could screen printing be? I was creative, I could do artwork, but I was a dumbass kid who didn’t know shit about anything, much less running a business or screen printing. But I got a book on screen printing and asked a friend who was a screen printer to come over and teach me a bunch of stuff. I wrapped my carport in plastic and got to work on shirts for local bands and little skate and surf brands.”

 
 
 
 

After five years, Hill had built a 150-employee business that produced private-label products like shirts, stickers, and skate decks, adorned with a catalog of artistic and progressive designs, that were then rebranded for thousands of surf shops, mountain resorts, or similar. “It allowed smaller brands to compete with any big brand out there with their own private-label lines,” Hill says, “and since I didn’t have the money to put my own brand together, I figured I’d build brands for other people, but really, I was just designing things in a very commercial way that didn’t have soul. We designed the stuff that we knew would sell, but it wasn’t my taste, and after a while I wanted to do something that reflected what I was into.”

In 2011, a subsidiary business called Iron & Resin came to life with an aim to produce durable, high-quality products inspired by the local culture that charmed Hill. He and his team created a small collection of apparel and goods, pulled together a makeshift booth for a trade show, and shook hands to set up a few accounts and get the wheels rolling. A well-curated Instagram became the brand’s main vehicle for exposure, and before long people from all over the world were asking to carry Iron & Resin in their stores. “Still, we never made any money with it, really, and we just kept pouring money back into it from the other business,” Hill admits.

 
 
 
 

It got worse before it got better. After 21 years of marriage, Hill went through a litigious divorce, and in 2019, it forced him to hit pause on Iron & Resin, sell off his main business and his house, and walk away from decades of work. He says, “It sucked having to start over at my age, but at least I was able to get the trademark for Iron & Resin out of it all.” 

And at least the dissolution of a tumultuous marriage led him to his new partner, Laura Fullilove, who runs her own brand, The Salt Ranch, while also managing the Iron & Resin flagship store in Ventura. “I met her a couple years after my separation, and I was definitely not looking for another relationship,” Hill says. “I hadn’t even dated somebody else since I was basically a kid. But I’d just gotten out of the water from surfing and went to have beers with some buddies, and there she was.”

“She runs these horsemanship clinics and had just finished one,” he continues, “so she was dirty and had her hat and boots on, with dirt under her fingernails, and I was like, ‘Man, this chick is interesting.’ We ended up talking ’til two in the morning, and for the last seven years we’ve been partners in life, business, everything.”

 
 
 
 

Within five months of settling his divorce, Hill had restructured and relaunched Iron & Resin. In its salad days, the brand followed a wholesale model that is traditionally fraught with troubles, but now it focuses on a direct-to-consumer model, which Hill prefers since he can better tailor the product experience for his customers. Hill and his small, tight-knit team of a dozen function as a family, spending days at the beach so they can go surfing or riding motorcycles together at lunch, and if a truck pulls up in front of the store and needs to be unloaded, everybody gets up from their desk, goes outside, and unloads it together. 

“As painful as it was to get here, it was probably the best thing that could have happened, because it freed Iron & Resin of a lot of baggage from my old business and left it completely unencumbered to grow and be very healthy,” Hill says. “Now I can just focus on that, and it’s really where my heart is, and it’s just been a much happier time in my life the last couple years.” 

 
 

If he’s not in the office or at the beach, Hill is likely at his ranch just outside of Cuyama Valley, on the far side of the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains. “If you imagine a ranching community in the 1940s or ’50s in California, Cuyama Valley is pretty much still that,” he says. “There’s probably 750 residents total across a hundred miles, and it’s very spread out, but everybody knows everybody. Our neighbor, 88-year-old Fred, has an 80,000-acre cattle ranch that his family has been running since the 1800s. He still runs cattle, horseback by himself, and his grandfather was the first forest ranger in the Los Padres National Forest.” 

When Hill is at his ranch, he rides horses or motorcycles on endless singletrack trails, shoots guns and runs around naked, doing whatever he wants to do with nobody there to tell him he can’t.

 
 
 
 

As much as he cherishes his adopted home of Ventura, Hill says the culture of the city is changing quickly as new money moves in, and as he gets older, he finds himself seeking seclusion, because he wants to be around noisy people less and less – the main appeal of ranch life. “When we’re at the beach, the train and the freeway go right by our house, and every day we watch thousands of cars pass us,” Hill says, “but in the mountains I have a place of complete solitude, with almost no one around, total silence, and an endless sky of stars.”

Hill is and always has been amused by his surroundings, a willing product of the environments that speak to him, from the sandbars of the Outer Banks and the forests of North Carolina to the surf breaks of Santa Barbara and Ventura, to the valleys of the Santa Lucia Mountains and wherever else he follows the passionate siren song of nature. Maybe next it draws him out with the tide to open ocean, to live aboard a sailboat with Fullilove, but still Hill never sees completely abandoning his beloved laid-back, blue-collar surf city. “We’d have the ranch, and we’d maintain our businesses here, and as long as we have balance, I don’t see any reason we’d ever really leave Ventura,” he says.

 
 
 

In the end, why does “where” matter to him? Because being in the right place helps Hill be in the right mindset and be present in what he calls “peak moments,” which are the flashbang instances of elation that we all chase. “I want to put myself in a place and in a position to have as many of those peak moments as I can,” he says. “In life, there’s good times, there’s bad times, and sometimes you got to put your head down and work, but the whole reason for doing that is to have those peak moments. It’s fleeting, it lasts only a few minutes, and then it’s gone, but threading those together over a lifetime is what makes life worth living, as far as I’m concerned.”

Of Dust and Death

AN ODE TO THE OLD WEST

Photography by Jack Antal featuring Austin Dixon | Words by Ben Giese

In collaboration with RAEN

the lone rider moves with the wind

to the west

through a sea of dust and death

 
 
 
 
 
 

scorned by the sun

forsaken by heaven and earth

a thousand miles from nowhere

 
 
 
 
 
 

the land of illusion and delusion

of serpents and skeletons

eternal stars and holy nights

 
 
 
 
 
 

but there are no gods here

only devils

and the lost souls of the west

 
 
 
 
 
 

the long shadows of ancient saguaros

that still sing hymns of yesterday

of outlaws and gunslingers

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

and the lone rider

headed west

with the setting sun

Life in the Fast Lane

MOTORCYCLES AND MUSIC WITH CONNER

A film by Avery Rost with Fox Racing

Being an artist is more than just making music for Conner. It’s the way that he lives his life in the fast lane – a balance between thoughts racing around his head and finding a way to put them into his music. But when he has nothing to say, he finds himself on his motorcycle. The ultimate escape that reminds him of being a kid in Hagerstown, Maryland, dreaming of one day becoming a musician.

Death Acre

WHERE THE DUNES MEET THE SEA ON THE COAST OF ANGOLA

Words by Adam Lyman | Photography by Archie Leeming

 
 

Ican’t do this, man.” I sat on the hard mattress of the dingy border-town hotel room and said the dreaded words. Silence. Archie Leeming, looking tired, calmly paused his packing. We were both exhausted. I was at my wit’s end. I had to break the news; I couldn’t take the intensity of this trip anymore. It had been a wild journey already, fraught with frustration and challenges. And yet the “real” trip had yet to begin. The Death Acre in Angola — the southern African nation officially known as the Republic of Angola and an adventurer’s dream — was still ahead of us. But we had been met with relentless struggle already, and I didn’t think I could be a good travel partner if we continued. 

 
 

A strained conversation ensued. We were both a bit upset. The trip wasn’t supposed to end this way. We had been planning it for nearly nine months and had been so eager. At this point it felt like it was supposed to happen. But I couldn’t seem to change my feelings. By choosing not to go, I threw Archie’s entire trip off. The Death Acre is not a place you go on your own, so without a travel partner, his dreams of exploring the coastal dunes of Angola were dashed. We packed the rest of our gear in silence and trudged out of our damp, shabby room with dusty panniers slung across our shoulders. A three-wheeled motorcycle with a covered cargo bed putt-putted into the courtyard to take us and our gear back to Angolan customs, where our bikes had been stuck overnight. 

The Death Acre is a 50-mile section of coastline in Southern Angola. Here, mountainous dunes rise immediately from the sea’s edge, ending in towering peaks of sand. There is no beach, no border between the wall of sand and the ocean. Normally, there is no way to cross this section by land. However, at certain times of the month and according to moon patterns, the tide recedes to reveal a temporary passageway wide enough to pass between the sea and the dunes’ edges. But after a window of a few hours, the ocean returns to the foot of the dunes, swallowing your tracks and any vehicle that remains. This is what we had come to explore. But the thought of doing so was very foreboding.

 

To even be at the Angolan border was a feat of its own. Two weeks prior, Archie and I had met in Windhoek, Namibia, after journeying several thousand miles each to get there. I was coming down from Northern Zambia, and he up from Cape Town, South Africa. And what a journey it had been. For months we had poured our hearts and souls into our old, classic Honda motorcycles for this trip. I had completely rebuilt my 750cc Africa Twin from the frame up, and Archie had freshly rebuilt his engine and carefully customized his XR600R for the long-range adventure. We lived and breathed old bikes, and our trip to the Angolan border had been a trial by fire, as it was the first time both bikes had been ridden fully reassembled. 

Naturally, Murphy and his law had it out for us the entire time; anything that could go wrong seemingly had. Mechanical failures. Electrical failures. Engine problems. We quickly occupied any garage space across Southern Africa that we were allowed into. Some people would call it “chaos,” but to us it was just standard procedure. It seemed like there had already been at least two separate trips within this trip. I was beyond exhausted. We had chosen our hill, and the odds weren’t looking good. I was ready to surrender before that proverbial death. 

 
 

I gazed out the back of the three-wheeler, watching the chaotic road scene unfold as we plodded toward the border. People in flip flops drove small motorbikes in every direction on a packed road, zigzagging every which way. Crowded storefronts lined the street. A cow stood alone in the middle of a grassy roundabout. I was still going back and forth in my mind about my decision. We had been committed to this trip together for a very long time, and as we get older these opportunities are getting harder and harder to come by. There was a lot of momentum riding on this trip, but at this point I felt like we were pushing a rock uphill, knowing full well we may get crushed by it if we kept it up. Then the putt-putting of the three-wheeler slowed, and I snapped out of it as we stopped in front of customs, where our bikes had been held overnight.

Technically, the border was closed due to COVID-19. We weren’t even supposed to be here. Everyone in Namibia had told us crossing was impossible. Until we convinced him, the Namibian immigration officer was not going to stamp us out of the country. The day before we had failed to cross into Angola because the immigration officer in charge of processing our visas was at church. So, stranded and destitute without passports, motorcycles or money, we were forced into a dodgy, humid and mosquito-infested hotel room near the border. Stranded and destitute was the last sign I needed to tip my decision-making scales.  

 

As we trudged back up to Angola immigration, the officer in question came bursting out of the door holding our visas over his head, beaming with excitement. He spoke good English and had been very helpful so far, completely unphased by the border closure. “Are you guys ready for Angola?” he asked cheerfully. I countered with my somber news: We would be turning around and heading home. He looked very confused, almost concerned. “But Angola needs you!” he pleaded. I saw Archie cracking a smile in my periphery. The officer was in his corner — the last-ditch convincing effort he needed. “I’ve already processed your visa; everything is ready to go!” We were silent. Archie was gleefully holding back from piling on with convincing remarks. So, the officer continued for him, “There is nothing to worry about, where you are going it’s so beautiful. Just come, don’t worry.”

I smirked and shook my head. This situation was so absurd. I looked at Archie, and he was laughing. The tension between us was broken. I looked at the bikes. Then toward the locked gate at the end of immigration and customs. We had come all this way. 

 

We excused ourselves for a minute. I walked around the building and sat on the curb next to the bikes. Several possible scenarios flashed in my head — some realistic, some fear-based. What if the trip takes longer than we expect? What if the bikes break down (again) and it becomes a massive undertaking to extract? What if the COVID situation changes and Namibia or Angola locks down their borders? I looked at the bikes. Back at Archie. Back at the gate into Angola. I could hear the voices of all the reasonable people in my life saying how terrible of an idea it would be to go through that gate. “Real Africa” was behind it — anything was possible once we stepped through. My head was in a fog from our night of battling mosquitoes and heat. On top of being road weary. We hadn’t had a proper meal in days. I was blank. Several moments passed.

 
 

“All right, let’s fucking do this.” I stood up confidently. Archie beamed, and we hugged. It was on. Tension turned into teamwork. Back around the corner the immigration officer stood excitedly waiting with our passports in his hands. He might have been as excited as we were when he heard the news. All of us cheered. A few stamps and papers for the bikes later we passed through the gate and were on the road into Angola.

Everything changed as we crossed the border – the language, the people, the culture. We switched from driving on the right to the left. People, animals and other random objects poured into the streets. There were abandoned, rusted tanks sitting along the side the road, their turrets pointed south toward Namibia, remnants of the devastating civil war that had occurred mere decades ago. Empty hotel and housing projects sat idle. It felt strangely eerie, like driving through a documentary of the Soviet Union in the ’80s, but this was Africa. European architecture and pastel-colored buildings dotted the roadside, making things even more confusing. But everywhere we stopped, the warm, relaxed nature of the people we met immediately shattered the artificial cold projected by these historical remnants.  

 

Our route took us northwest from the border along the single tarmac road headed toward the town of Cahama. There was hardly anything there, just a handful of small shops along the road for a few hundred miles. A horde of small bikes crowded around a large above-ground fuel tank. We pulled in. Eminem was blasting on a cheap Chinese stereo. We filled up all fillable containers we had with fuel and water — from here on out there wouldn’t be any official fuel stations. There may be fuel in the villages, but there was no way to tell. I scrounged up some grocery supplies. We would not see another tarmac road until the end of the trip, several days and nearly 1,000 miles later. Well, we weren’t exactly sure what we would see.

There is something so enticing about heading into the unknown in a totally different country, with a completely unique landscape and culture. We pointed our fully loaded bikes into the sunset over the scrubby, bushy scene before us. From here, we’d head west toward the ocean across several hundred miles of remote bush track before reaching the start of the Death Acre. For us, the Death Acre was the proverbial summit of the trip. The last, most difficult task lying ominously at the end of the challenging track to get there. That morning’s drama slipped far into the background as we started off into the dying sun looking for a place to sleep in the bush.

 

Dusty roads. Cool mornings, and hot days. Spirits were high — the riding was incredible. I danced on my foot pegs to the Grateful Dead blasting in my helmet as we weaved in and out of the rocky track flowing up and down through the bushy desert that slowly turned mountainous. This. This is why we do this. Exploring the far corners of the world with a good friend, loaded up on bikes we had transferred part of our souls into. We were firmly in the ever-elusive “zone.”  Things were coming together. All memories of past suffering faded away. What was up next? When was the last time a foreigner had been down these roads? Months? Years? Each small town we came across felt like an oasis. There weren’t many, but every few hours a village would appear out of the dry, barren landscape. Over the next few days, the villages became smaller and smaller, farther and farther apart down more aggressive roads. Only a few hundred more miles to the ocean. 

Iona National Park was the beginning of the endless sand. Deep sand. We trudged through the ruts of 4x4 tracks that had gone before us heading for a ranger station. This would be our last checkpoint before the open desert and the start of the Death Acre. We didn’t know what we would find at the station, so both Archie and I were completely loaded with water and fuel. A 23-liter tank of fuel, plus six more liters in an auxiliary bag.  Eleven liters of water. I could feel the weight of the Twin, now very top-heavy, shifting from side to side violently in the sand. We were both tired, but all remaining energy reserves were focused on keeping things upright and moving fast enough to maintain balance, and not get sucked into the bottomless fluff. Every now and then I’d break concentration to remind myself to take in the increasingly rugged, unearthly scenery unfolding around us.

 
 

Around midday we pulled into the ranger station in Iona. It was a simple camp, consisting of a few rows of block housing where we were offered to stay the night. We looked at each other. A real bed? Indoors? Behind the station was a sea of infinite desert. The mountains were no more — it was nothing but sand between us and the ocean. As we parked under the shade, I could see heat waves rolling off the surface into the horizon. Around sunset we hiked up a nearby mountain. From the top we had a 360-degree view of our surroundings. The geological shift was clear. There was no one else here. It was quiet. Barren. Isolated. Majestic. Ominous. 

From the ranger station, we still had to cross the 60-mile section of desert plain that lay before us. There was no official road here – just open desert with faint two tracks in the windswept sand. Eventually they would lead to the Foz do Cunene, or “Mouth of the Cunene,” which was the border between Angola and Namibia. There was a small police post guarding the border, nestled in an abandoned colonial settlement from the 1800s, amongst the dunes. Next, we’d ride along the brooding, desolate coastline for about 60 miles north from the police camp, where the Death Acre would begin. The whole area was wildly remote. Nothing but sand, wind and water for hundreds of miles. Cell signal had stopped four days ago. 

 

We went flat-out Dakar Rally-style, pinning the bikes racing side by side like ink pens drawing a route on the surface of the blank virgin sand. Archie had the coordinates on his GPS, and we followed that line along with some faint tire tracks in the sand. We couldn’t afford to get lost out here. The conditions were too harsh; the stakes too high. 

As we got closer to the ocean, the flat desert turned to dunes, gradually becoming larger and larger. The sand shifted back from hard pack to soft beach. This is where Archie’s XR600R was at its best. I, on the other hand, with a fully loaded Twin, was pumping the throttle to keep the ship afloat. If we stopped at the wrong spot — at the bottom of an incline, or the middle of a loose sand rut — we could get very stuck. So, we had to keep the speed up so that the bike could remain afloat above the sand — but not too fast, because the dunes were laden with treachery, oftentimes concealed. Most common was a hidden ridge: A dune face that appeared to gradually slope down the other side could drop off unexpectedly, leaving a sheer drop. Depth perception among the dunes was difficult to ascertain, so it was hard to tell which ridges dropped off and which ones didn’t. 

 

Archie stopped and looked down at his front tire. It was flat. We were already pressed for time, and this was an unfortunate setback. There was no shelter out here, and we really needed to make it to the river mouth if we had any chance of crossing the Death Acre the next morning. A puncture two hours before sundown, in the middle of the desert, with little backup options available, was the worst-case scenario. Here we go — this is what we had trained for on all our previous trips. We went through the motions of changing Archie’s tube as the late-afternoon sun beat down and the wind whipped sand across our face. I could smell the sea in the intense wind blowing from the coast, which still must have been many dozens of miles away. 

The sun set over the dunes, and the sea mist rolling in from the ocean was fogging up my goggles. We still couldn’t see the ocean, but the smell and heavy air was unmistakable. As we got closer to the ocean, more and more rocks appeared, hidden in the dunes. There was more wind here, too. We were so close, but that didn’t really matter. Each mile had potential for danger and getting very lost. Things were getting dicey now as darkness set in. We were pushing. Up and over the dunes, one after the other, going faster and faster with a sense of urgency. Eventually we crested a rolling dune and saw the ocean in the distance. I was in disbelief that we were actually here after all we’d been through. But there was no time to celebrate, as we had to find our camp. 

 
 

An eerie, abandoned settlement rose out of the desert to greet us in the dusk. Tucked into the dunes and set back from the sea was a smattering of concrete block houses. Their paint had faded years ago and stood as gloomy gray dwellings in an already bleak landscape. Most of the houses were rundown and ramshackle, with roofs falling in, or filled with sand that had blown into their open doors and windows.  

Guards appeared out of the block houses near the entrance to the village. People. There were people here. How was that possible? Their cheer and friendliness immediately cut through the town’s eerie darkness that at this point was both quite literal and figurative. We were welcomed by the guards, who took our details, effectively checking us “in” to the abandoned village. 

 

In the last remaining light, we rode our bikes across town over to the ramshackle pump house at the edge of the river where we would sleep. Busted-out windows and graffiti added to the ghostlike feeling. Large pipes twisted in various arrangements were still scattered throughout the house, which looked directly over the river, which was something of an anomaly itself. A wide ribbon of fresh water winding its way through the dry, sandy desert, eventually dumping into the ocean. We later found out the river was packed full of crocs and a variety of sharks, adding to its exotic appeal. 

There wasn’t much time to take in how incredibly peculiar the whole settlement and situation was because we had to begin preparing for tomorrow. Our attention turned to the task at hand. I could feel the weight of the following day when we would make a go at the Death Acre.

Archie’s alarm pierced the early-morning stillness. It was 4:30. Coffee, oats, a few quiet moments by the river. I looked for crocodiles. Nothing. The sun crested the top of the dune opposite the river. Time to go. 

 

If all went well today, we would be camping in the middle of the Death Acre section. Archie had GPS coordinates to meet up with a group for a tour from a place called Flamingo Lodge going to Baja dos Tigres tomorrow and camping in the dunes for two nights. Our plan was to meet up with our guide at their camp and join the tour. If we made it on time. Through a variety of satellite communications Archie had arranged an hour window to meet them between 11:30 and 12:30. 

Both Archie and I had been on a lot of trips to obscure places, but there was something different about today. I could feel it. This was serious. Countless things could go wrong very quickly and easily. Seamless execution was dependent on our skill, focus and preparation. Past images of sunken Land Rovers and motorcycles being hauled up a dune away from the incoming tide crossed my mind. Stories of experienced motorcyclists going headfirst over a dune and breaking bones surfaced. If anything went wrong, help wouldn’t be easy or guaranteed. Definitely not fast. Things were serious. 

 
 

We started off. There was roughly 60 miles of challenging coastline to cover before the official start of the Death Acre. But there was no road. It was up to us to choose the right line, which was nearly impossible. Each line has its own perils. Near the ocean, riding was flat, but occasionally saturated sand would become quicksand, instantly stopping us in our tracks. Or a rock outcropping sticking into the ocean would block our path, and we had to go up and over the sandy bank to gamble on the inland line. Once inland, we were faced with deep beach sand and dunes with huge whoops, boulders and drop-offs. Rock chunks that could easily take out an engine case were hidden by the sand. The sand was anything but flat. Ramping off a dune, or diving into a hidden crevasse, seemed inevitable. One mistake and we’d go over the handlebars, breaking the bikes or ourselves. My adrenaline and focus had never been higher. Sure enough, both of us eventually dumped our bikes down a false dune side, luckily avoiding any critical damage or injury.  

After many hard-fought miles, we reached the start of the Death Acre — marked by the towering dunes appearing out of the desert plain. Fortunately, the conditions made the famed Death Acre riding much easier than what we had just completed. The sand in front of us, recently covered by water a few hours prior, was hardpacked and gave us no issues. It was a calm, sunny day. We made good time. The scenery was beyond epic, unlike anything I had ever seen in my life. We were happy and smiling, and we had plenty of time to mess around and shoot some photos. 

 

And then I got lost. Archie and I were separated for nearly an hour. I made a wrong turn into a false lagoon created by ocean currents. What appeared to be coastline eventually disappeared into the ocean. I didn’t have the GPS, or any way of knowing where I was, or where Archie was. I didn’t realize I was lost and waited for Archie to catch up, not knowing he had already passed me farther inland. Maybe he was having mechanical issues again, I thought. I waited. Nothing. Meanwhile, unbeknownst to me, Archie was completely panicked. He drove up and down the coast searching everywhere for me, writing notes in the sand, worried I had been lost and then backtracked. By the time we finally met again, he was rattled, and another hour was gone. We were pushing time again, putting our meetup window in jeopardy. 

We continued riding up the coast. Dune ridges, towering over the ocean, wound northward as far as we could see. Past the lagoon, riding was easy again, as we flowed in and out of the curvature of the dunes. We made good time again, although still wary of our past hindrances. 

 

Eventually Archie stopped abruptly on the coast. “This is it, the GPS coordinates. Camp Relief should be a few hundred meters that way.” He pointed at the massive dune to our right. Finally! We were in a celebratory mood — the highest of highs. Archie was beaming. The apex of our trip! We had done it! There was still sand in both of our helmets from when we had dumped our bikes over dunes earlier this morning. I had several near-misses with boulders. But we had made it. Months of planning and prep and hardship resulted in this moment. The trials and tribulations to get here were substantial. Just a week ago I had reached my wit’s end, and nearly turned around. But here we were. 

Time for a tea and snack by the ocean. I dug out the last bits of biltong (cured meat strips) and dried mangos — luxuries I had saved from Namibia. This was a real celebration. I suggested we move the bikes down to the water to create a makeshift shelter to protect us from the hot midday sun and slight offshore breeze. Still chuffed, we walked to our bikes to move them. 

Thwap, thwap, thwap. Archie looked at me with a horrified face. His kicking intensified. Thwap, thwap, thwap. Nothing, not even a single fire. He kept kicking in denial. Several minutes passed. This might be one of the worst places for the bike to give up. Both our minds were racing. What if it actually didn’t start? What if we were stuck in the middle of the Death Acre with a bike that’s not working and no backup on the way? Thwap, thwap, thwap. 

 
 

I suggested we go have that cup of tea, cool off, enjoy the surroundings a bit and not think about it right now. But it was too late. Archie had already begun spiraling — as one would — when you may be stranded in the middle of possibly the most remote desert location in the world. After 2 p.m. that day, the tide would come in and then no one could reach us by land. Our high had crashed immediately. The mood was again one of frustration and hopelessness. 

We had our tea. Archie was visibly upset and disgruntled. I tried to provide some comfort and be a steady voice of reason, but even I could tell that the situation looked a bit bleak. Eleven-thirty turned into 12:30, which turned into 1:30. What if we waited too long, then missed our window to get out of the Death Acre? Do we camp here for the night? Will Archie’s bike start again? What do we do if it doesn’t? 

 

I took another sip of tea and stared out over the ocean. In front of us to the north, the coastline swooped around, jutting out to a point. I fixed my eyes on that point. If our guide comes, it will be around that point. No sign of a vehicle yet. Meanwhile, our surroundings didn’t seem to care about our internal turmoil. Everything was still. A calm, turquoise colored sea gently lapped the shore. Periodically the wind picked up across the sea, blowing bits of sand up and over the lonely dune peaks. Seagulls rode the thermals, hovering just over top the mountain of sand. Their shadows danced across the face of the dune below. A jackal sat completely still halfway up another dune, looking at us curiously. I broke the silence with another attempt at keeping the optimism up. We had the essentials. We had prepared for this. There was enough food and water for an emergency overnight. It might not be ideal, but it was fine. My words seemed empty, hardly comforting in the void that was our current environment. There was nothing left to say, so we sat in silence, both running scenarios about what might unfold.      

 

“What’s that?!” We strained our eyes toward the point like stranded sailors desperate for rescue. Nope, that was just a dark rock I hadn’t seen yet. We eventually gave up and walked back to the bike to inspect it. Seat off, tank off, luggage spread everywhere. Standard procedure. We checked the spark plug, and sure enough the spark was weak. It was yellow. Sometimes. Other times there was no spark at all. Without a multimeter we couldn’t pinpoint the problem exactly. All we could do was hope there was enough spark for enough of the time to get us out of the Death Acre.  

We were nearing complete devastation. The whole trip had been a roller coaster of emotions, constantly going from highs to lows. But this was a new level of low. Archie was especially upset — he had put so much time and effort into painstakingly preparing the bike for the trip — and now we might be stuck for real. The uncertainty and anxiety that came with it was crushing. 

 
 

I periodically peered up from Archie’s bike, looking toward the point. Nothing. Wait, there was movement. I squinted against the sun. Oh my god. A Land Cruiser came flying around the corner in the far distance with a long boat on a trailer wagging behind it. I did a double take. Even from this distance the cruiser was moving seriously fast. He must have been going nearly 70 mph along the beach, with a boat in tow. It was a sight to see. We could hardly believe it! Excitement flooded both our faces.  Our guide pulls up and hangs out the window, greeting us with a wry, mischievous smile. The simple presence of another human washed away all the darkness of our anxiety and stress. We were saved!

Archie put the bike back together and started kicking. Thwap, thwap, thwap. Somehow, in a seeming act of God, the bike eventually fired, springing back to life. It was on.

We asked our guide where a camp was. He pointed at the massive dune rising behind us and said, “Just behind there.” We looked at each other, then back at him, confused. I was speechless. How could a camp be back there; there was a dune in the way? How were we going to get there? “Follow me,” our guide shouted as he drove away. Archie and I stood there, still in shock, as he looped around and charged up the side of the dune in the Land Cruiser with the boat behind him, the turbo screaming the entire way up. Up and over — the cruiser disappeared behind the dune. Not wanting to get lost again, Archie and I quickly saddled up and followed the guide through the mysterious portal into the campsite. Sure enough, over the first dune was a small relief surrounded by towering dunes where several basic camping shelters stood. 

 

Archie and I got off the bikes completely chuffed. Archie was laughing. The darkness was over. The guide brought out cold drinks. Lunch was being prepared. Near total desperation turned into what felt like a relaxing beach holiday. A gazebo was popped up. French expats working in the oil and gas industry in the capital city of Luanda showed up in a second Land Cruiser that reeked of a burnt transmission. Both vehicles had problems on the way, delaying them for hours. We sat in the shade, enjoying cold drinks and each other’s company. The afternoon was spent swimming in the warm coastal water and wandering along the tops of the surrounding dune ridges. The high was back. Later that night we enjoyed a massive meal of hot food, huddled from the desert cold in one of the basic wooden shelters. 

I slept so hard that night, underneath the desert stars in the open-air shelter. So hard that when I woke up I had to remind myself where I was. We were on holiday! Not broken down and clinging to life on the side of a dune. I smiled. I heard the sounds of breakfast being prepared, and smelled bacon cutting through the pre-dawn stillness. Unreal. This could be a dream, as far as I was concerned. That morning we toured Baja dos Tigres with our guide and the group. The island was one of the most bizarre locations I have ever been to, a large fishing ghost town located on a tiny strip of desert surrounded by ocean and impassible desert. We walked around as tourists, excitedly exploring the ruins of 19th-century buildings. What a difference a day can make. Twenty-four hours prior it had felt like we were fighting for survival. 

 

With ultra-high spirits, our entire group left the camp in a convoy. Archie and I on the bikes led the way, with the Land Cruiser behind us, speeding across the coast. Archie stopped and threw up his hands at the official end of the Death Acre. We really had made it this time. The town of Tombua appeared on the horizon. This was our first large town since leaving Cahama a week before. Motorbikes buzzed everywhere. Large Portuguese buildings and architecture sprawled throughout the city, painted in pastel colors. We finally arrived at the Flamingo Lodge just in time to see the sun set over the ocean. We recovered here for the last few days of the trip, eating well, resting and soaking in the beautiful surroundings. 

A few days later, Archie and I went our separate ways. I was headed back to Cape Town to start a new project, while Archie continued north on his motorbike along the West Coast of Africa, with his sights set on Europe.

 
 

It was in the quiet moments near the end of the trip that I could reflect and make sense of what had happened the past few weeks. This had been by far the most adventurous trip I had ever been on. I thought about that. Adventure. In a world of visual, manicured media, the way adventure is communicated has changed. The hardship involved in these types of trips is often lost, traded instead for one-sided glory or glamour. For us, adventure meant enduring some of the lowest of lows and the highest of stresses, and difficulties we had ever seen before. It meant more grit than glory. But, amid the troughs — no matter how low — there was always a peak. Perhaps it’s the sheer difference in potential between the highs and lows that makes this type of travel so addicting. As the sun went down on that night and the rest of the trip, I was completely knackered and ready to head home. But I knew I would be back at some point. True adventure has a way of calling. Until next time.

Dark Hours Outsider

MIKEY OJEDA: BLEACH DESIGN WERKS

Words by Seth Richards | Photography by John Ryan Hebert

 
 

It’s after hours in Los Angeles. From the Hollywood Hills, the lights of endless sprawl underpin the gray horizon, and from the heights of this American Olympus, the gods of celebrity, culture and money invent themselves. It’s here that Mikey Ojeda had a revelation.

Ojeda and his friend, the pro skateboarder Nyjah Huston, are leaving an afterparty. As the evening’s revelry disperses in the night, Huston, in a T-shirt and white Nikes, climbs on the murdered-out KTM 500 EXC-F Ojeda had just finished building for him, thumbs the starter, and sets off. Huston glances over his shoulder at the Uber full of women giving chase and pulls a heraldic wheelie, pronouncing his place in the world.

 
 
 

As the blast of the KTM’s exhaust cuts through the perfume of sagebrush and spilled champagne, the party’s din fades in the air, and Ojeda begins to realize the significance of his custom dual sport.

That night and others like it became the inspiration for Ojeda’s custom house, Bleach Design Werks. Based in Los Angeles, Bleach specializes in building custom dual sports with an LA-inspired aesthetic. It’s quickly attracted a celebrity clientele and sparked collaborations with Deus Ex Machina, Harley-Davidson, Alpinestars and Dunlop. And that’s just the beginning. Remember the name. Bleach Design Werks is about to blow up.

 
 
 
 

 “In the beginning,” Ojeda says, “I didn’t even like the idea of dual sports. I didn’t understand them.”

Given his background, it’s no wonder they seemed so alien. Ojeda grew up in Los Angeles and started racing motocross on a KTM 50 SX, practically learning to ride in the crucible of competition. A motorcycle was a tool for competition, not something to be ridden to the corner store for a carton of milk and a laugh.

Spending much of his childhood at the track prepared him for a career in the industry: first as an athlete manager for supercross and motocross racers, then as marketing director for an online motorcycle gear retailer.  

When Huston, with whom he shares a love of skateboarding and motocross, said he wanted to customize a dirt bike to fit his style like he does with his cars, Ojeda figured he could help negotiate a deal with Kawasaki, given Huston and Team Green’s mutual association with Monster Energy. Huston had other ideas.

 
 
 
 

Ojeda recalls the conversation: “Nyjah said, ‘I want a dual sport. I want to ride it on the street. I want a KTM 500.’”

“I said, ‘We don’t ride those bikes. We ride dirt bikes!’ I remember arguing with him about it and was like, ‘You’re crazy. They’re not cool.’ But he was so persistent.”

Next to a purebred motocross bike, a dual sport is a compromise—and looks it. A larger tank, cheapo turn signals and a bulky license plate bracket diminish the form-follows-function look of a number-plate-and-knobby off-roader. They’re slower and heavier, too. The engines often have lower compression ratios for improved street-ability, larger radiators to cope with city riding and revised chassis geometry. To pass muster with the Feds, they have catalytic converters, charcoal canisters and quiet exhausts. In the process of becoming reliable, street-legal and socially acceptable, dual sports lose the purity that makes a motocross bike the most badass machine on a showroom floor.    

Huston was undeterred. After picking up the KTM at Three Brothers Racing in Costa Mesa, California, he shocked Ojeda again by tossing him the keys. 

 
 
 
 

“Nyjah said, ‘All right, take it home,’” Ojeda recalls. “I was like, ‘What for?’ He said, ‘Build it.’ I told him, ‘I don’t do that. I don’t build bikes.’’’ 

Ojeda remembers thinking, “Once again, I’m getting talked into something I don’t do.” 

“If I can style this dual sport as closely to a moto bike as I can,” he remembers thinking, “it might be cool. I’m going to take factory brakes from a motocross bike; I’m going to set the suspension up like a motocross bike; I’m going to be able to ride it on the track.”

He tore down the brand-new engine to have it Cerakoted black, gave the front suspension a black diamond-like coating, installed a slender motocross tank, added a bunch of titanium hardware, and gave it a signature graphics treatment. It set the formula for every Bleach Design Werks motorcycle since. 

 
 
 
 

After riding it, he realized this new breed of dual sport was no joke. “Ten years ago a dual sport was an XR650,” Ojeda says. “Now these KTMs and Husky and Hondas are so close to a motocross bike.”

“The way I saw Nyjah use that bike really became my whole concept behind the brand,” Ojeda says. “I use the analogy of a Ford Raptor. It’s fully capable off-road, but 90 percent of them will probably never see dirt. People want to go to the club, or go to dinner, or go on a date with their chick and be in this off-road vehicle. There’s this cool factor of it being this urban thing. Can I build the Ford Raptor of bikes?” 

Consciously or not, by understanding a motorcycle’s implicit cultural message and its role in symbolic behavior, Ojeda has fit the machine toward man. Replace for a moment the image of Huston wheelieing away from that afterparty on his Bleach KTM with a 200-horsepower superbike, and the impression it leaves takes on a different meaning. On a superbike, that wheelie comes across as gratuitous and self-serving, an indictment of tact. A superbike’s superlative performance is subjugated to its relation to the rider who will never be its master. It’s too serious a thing to use as a playful prop. But on a lightweight single-cylinder off-roader producing less than 70 horsepower, that wheelie blithely tips its cap to braggadocio. The rider looks like he’s having fun, not like he’s desperate to impress.  

 
 
 
 

It’s no easy trick to express one’s sense of self-assurance and self-gratification so convincingly, and yet such symbolic messages are critical to the way we interact with each other. The clothes we wear, the vehicles we drive or ride, and the places we choose to be seen devise the identities in which we find succor and confidence. In one form or another, finding meaning and social position can be attributed to the way we style our lives.

“Style is everything,” Ojeda says. “Style creates a feeling. There’s no standard for style. My style is what makes me get up and feel the way I want to feel in the morning. I think there’s style in everything.

“I take a lot of inspiration from fashion. Riding these bikes in the city, you’re not wearing motocross gear; you’re wearing normal clothes. The bike is an accessory that belongs with the way you look.”

Bleach motorcycles look like LA pop culture and reflect the style of its celebrity clients, including Justin Bieber, rappers Ty Dolla $ign and Arizona Zervas, Ben Simmons of the Brooklyn Nets, skateboarders Leticia Bufoni and Boo Johnson, and Ojeda’s childhood friend, motocross racer Cole Seely. 

 
 
 
 

As much as the Bleach look is an expression of Los Angeles, riding dirt bikes on the street has strong associations with broader urban culture. Dudes were riding CRs and YZs on the streets of Baltimore long before Ojeda Cerakoted an engine black or Bieber made it cool to suburban kids. 

So, in a sense, a Bleach custom is a designer take on urban style. Exclusivity makes Bleach motorcycles the fare of rappers and basketball players, but the trickledown effect is what most excites Ojeda. 

“I see the bikes almost being the smallest piece,” Ojeda says. “How can we touch the demographic of people who can’t afford the bikes but want to be inspired by the way they make other people look?”

 
 
 
 

Bleach is rapidly expanding into the fashion world and is developing capsule collections with several big-name brands. One such collaboration is with Harley-Davidson. It puts him in good company: H-D’s latest fashion collab is with menswear giant Todd Snyder. Undoubtedly, Harley-Davidson wants a piece of the Bleach demographic.

Bleach’s current residency at Deus Ex Machina in Venice, California, further emphasizes Ojeda’s vision beyond two wheels. Ojeda sees it as an opportunity to invite people into the processes of building a bike and developing a line of made-in-LA clothing.

During the launch party of the residency, Ojeda opened the Deus workshop and began to tear down the KTM, maneuvering around the lift while guests drank beer and chatted. 

“We built the shop out like a clubhouse,” Ojeda says. “I wanted it to feel like when you hang out with friends in your garage. The workshop used to have a one-way mirror looking into the retail store, so no one could see in. The first thing I wanted to do was blow that whole window open.” 

“The days of hiding everything are just dead. Creating transparency is so important. Everyone wants to feel a part of something, like they belong.”

 
 
 
 

While the motorcycle community is connected by common interest, it’s also divided by overt symbolic behavior that delineates who’s part of the club and who isn’t. The perceived barriers of gender, race and social class are just as evident in the motorcycle world as they are anywhere, and are even amplified by the distinct expressions of motorcycling’s subcultures. Marketing success is contingent on a brand’s ability to play to the right crowd. To transcend a specific niche requires a broader appeal. 

Bleach bikes aren’t easy to categorize. They don’t fit easily in the custom scene, and performance aside, their LA-at-night style is a departure from the motocross and off-road scene from which the bikes are derived. Consequently, Bleach’s demographic has come more from outside the motorcycle world than from within. So, despite Ojeda’s deep roots and connections within the industry, Bleach can come across as an outsider. 

 
 
 

“I submitted one of my first bikes to a motorcycle publication, and they denied it,” Ojeda says. “They said it’s not really a custom bike. I was bummed, thinking I’m not doing it right. Then I took a step back and realized I had a different place to go. Now, seeing my bikes in all these different publications that have nothing to do with bikes—that’s where I want to be. That’s where I belong. We take in ‘Nos’ as if they’re always bad, but sometimes ‘Nos’ are the biggest ‘Yes.’ You gotta find where you fit.” 

Ojeda looks beyond the insular subcultures of motorcycling to glimpse a world far larger. He has his eye on Paris Fashion Week, Vogue, and a culture in which two wheels are usually invisible. And in Los Angeles, where culture invents itself in the waning hours and outsiders become the in-crowd, Ojeda is on the brink of introducing Bleach to the world.

Full Circle

A FATHER AND SON’S TWO-WHEELED JOURNEY

Words by Jason Hamborg | Photography by Christos Sagiorgis

A film by 6ix Sigma in association with Tourism Prince George

 

I could see how a person would make the argument that no sane parent would buy their kid a motorcycle. It’s basically a two-wheeled ticket to the hospital. However, as someone whose parent made that exact mistake, I could argue the opposite. A motorcycle is a gateway, not just to the physical world, but into your psyche. To better understand the limits of yourself and those around you. 

Of course, very few of those manic parents bringing home that first bike have any sort of existential motivation. In my case, I’m pretty sure my old man just wanted to give me an opportunity that he never had as a kid. Plus, it was a way to keep me busy, out of my mom’s hair while she did the bookkeeping for the family logging operation. 

 
 

My dad was always cool like that. I remember my first major riding injury: a broken collarbone after trying to impress some random kids at a sandpit on my PW50. He came home with a SEGA and a fresh copy of “Sonic the Hedgehog” to entertain me while I healed. Similar to his PW purchase, he didn’t know the first thing about video games but knew damn well that he would have loved one at 6 years old.

That 1994 Yamaha PW50 changed everything. My dad tied a rope to the back fender and chased me around the yard as I learned the ins and outs of throttle and brake control. Within a couple of years, he made the mistake of taking me to watch a local race. Up to that point, I had only seen motocross in static images in magazines. Seeing the riders hitting jumps and hearing the sounds of 250 two-strokes racing up and down the hills was all I needed. Kiss your weekends goodbye, Dad, we’re going racing! 

 
 
 

It started slow, with local races and the odd overnight trip out of town. But quickly things progressed. Three races a year turned to 5, turned to 10. Soon we were gone nearly every weekend. My brother, my dad and I, the three amigos, would load up on a Friday after school and come home late Sunday night. Like clockwork. My parent’s business, the logging operation, was 4 hours north of my hometown, meaning it wasn’t uncommon for my dad to get back home on Sunday at 10 p.m., drop the trailer and continue north so he could make a meeting with the mill for the next morning. At the end of the week, he would get as much done as he could on a Friday morning before driving back home, hooking up the motorcycle trailer and driving to wherever the next race took us.

As a kid, you don’t really recognize that sacrifice. You’re blind to it, sleeping most of the drive or looking out the window dreaming about the race weekend to come, all the while your parent is burning the candle at both ends. It’s funny, if I would have taken a moment to pay attention to all of this, I could have realized there was more going on than “chasing the dream.” Say whatever you want about my dad, but one thing for certain is that he’s a realist. In his mind, there was no “dream” to chase. He certainly wasn’t blind to the fact his kid was getting 4th place at some rinky-dink motocross race in rural British Columbia. 

 
 
 
 

Looking back at it now, I realize that all those hours, all those arguments and trips to the hospital meant one very important thing. A chance to spend as much time as possible with his kids. A chance to watch them grow up, guide them and, most importantly, make up for the lost time from being gone in the bush for weeks at a time. Was it perfect? Hell no. But it was our way, and in a lot of ways, that’s all you can ask for. The only problem is that until recently, I didn’t really appreciate what it gave me.

I stopped racing in 2008. Real life was starting. I was graduating from high school and working at the local Suzuki dealership, and the prospect of parties and girls was getting more and more attractive. I stopped riding for nearly 6 years, and as much as I hate to say it, that is probably the time that I have the least recollection of spending quality time with my dad.

I graduated from university in 2013 and finally had the itch to ride again. I bought a used bike that needed some maintenance, so I called up my dad and brought the bike up to his place to work on it. Both of us were years out of practice, but we managed to wrestle a fresh tire onto the rim, only pinching one tube, and we sat in his garage sharing a mix of frustration and pride as we stared at the tire. For the first time in a long time, we had an opportunity to spend genuine quality time together. Over the subsequent years, bikes helped us rekindle our relationship. Discussions about rides, maintenance or new motorcycles gave us talking points well beyond basic family conversations. 

 

In 2018, hell froze over, and my dad who was always the observer finally became a bike owner himself. His buddy convinced him that they should do a trip across the Southeastern U.S., and that a Harley Street Glide was a perfect tool for the job. The old man started riding, and riding a lot. He even rode that Street Glide down 200 miles of dirt roads in Baja. I was now the one giving words of encouragement. Taking time out of my days to talk about the latest trip or offer advice on parts for his bike. That’s when it all clicked. Nearly a decade removed from our racing days, I realized that the roles had reversed. Bikes would now become my way of spending time with my dad, cultivating our relationship and ensuring we had more to talk about than the weather and politics. 

In the summer of 2021, I began planning a ride from my hometown, Prince George, British Columbia, heading east into the Robson Valley at the edge of the Rocky Mountains. The ride would feature a small portion of Highway 16, and a motorcycle route called Route 16: a stretch of highway totaling 600 miles from Valemount to Prince Rupert, BC. I have driven the highway multiple times over the last several years, but this was going to be my first time experiencing the journey by motorcycle. But I needed a partner to make this trip truly enjoyable, and after several foiled attempts to organize a trip with my old man, our schedules aligned, and he was going to be able to join me on the journey. 

 
 
 
 

We set out from Prince George early in the morning, and I realized quickly that this was our first true “trip” on bikes together with a mission and some actual ground to cover. We found our groove naturally, with my dad leading, and me chasing just behind. The highway immediately leaving Prince George is straight and open, with lots of room to daydream. But slowly the topography changes, as the once-distant mountains begin to dominate the sky. Eventually, we were engulfed by stands of cedar as the highway carved a path through the mountains, running parallel with the mighty Fraser River. The first stop on our journey was the Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Wudujut Park, part of the world’s only temperate inland rainforest. Walking through the forest and being dwarfed by the ancient trees, it’s easy to forget the pressures of the outside world. The feeling of being completely present in the moment. The same feeling Dad and I had hanging out in those dusty racetrack parking lots growing up.

We continued east along the highway, carving through the terrain like the river beside us until we turned north, off the beaten path to explore a “shortcut” along the south side of the Fraser. This was my first time seeing my dad ride on the dirt since he had crashed my brother’s bike in 2006 and given himself a goggle-shaped bruise across his forehead. Fortunately, we transitioned from the asphalt with no issues, and like a proud parent, I smiled under my helmet as we pushed our way through mud and sand, slowly climbing up from the valley and farther into the mountains. 

 
 
 

Day two was reserved for exploration within the Robson Valley. We had lofty ambitions in the morning to set our sights on Mount Robson, but with the weather we were struggling to see through the fog past our handlebars, let alone see the top of the Canadian Rockies’ tallest peak. So, we made our way back into Valemount to explore the many forest access roads, climbing out of the valley and into the alpine. Valemount sits at the foothills of the Cariboo, Columbia and Rocky Mountains and makes for an ADV rider’s dream.

By midday, my dad was sick of his traction control and was determined to find a way to shut it off so he could “do some burnouts.” Just like the days when my dad found the blind confidence to coach me through hitting a new jump at the track as a kid, I was now blindly coaching him through a KTM menu screen I had never seen before. It’s funny to travel hundreds of miles just to compare each other’s ability to spin the tire around a corner. 

 
 
 

Pulling up to our final destination on the shoreline at the northern tip of Kinbasket Lake, I paused with reservations about my dad riding in this deep sand. But without hesitation, he clanked passed me on the big 1290, and we had come full circle as I watched my dad push his way up the shore, confidently displaying all the skills he spent years ragging me about. Feet on the pegs, looking ahead and standing up. In that moment I couldn’t have been prouder. That’s when it hit me: the sleepless nights, the hospital visits, the broken bikes and bones. It was all just leading up to the time when we could switch roles and have an opportunity to share a moment like this.

Dust to Dust

AN EVENING WITH DIMITRI COSTE

Photography by John Ryan Hebert | In Collaboration with The Equilibrialist

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Three Stones From the Sun

AN EXPLORATION OF OUR CONNECTION WITH THE NATURAL WORLD

Photography by John Ryan Hebert | Featuring Todd Blubaugh

With quotes by Alan Watts

 
 
 
 
 
 

You are an aperture through which the universe is looking at and exploring itself.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You didn’t come into this world. You came out of it, like leaves from a tree or waves from the ocean.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

If you go off into a far, far place and get very quiet, you’ll come to realize you’re connected with everything.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

We are all as much an extraordinary phenomenon of nature as trees, clouds, the patterns in running water, the flickering of fire, the arrangement of stars and the form of a galaxy.

 

Golden Age

CHIPPA WILSON FINDS HIS FUTURE IN THE PAST

Words by Travis Ferré | Photography by Nick Green

 
 

Chippa Wilson looks good inside an old bar. Especially at noon, tucked into a Naugahyde booth that’s a bit sticky from years of booze and salt spilling over it. The dark windows shield us from the bright noonday sun of your average California Wednesday, while Wilson’s thorough and ornate tattoo work proudly signifies his commitment to the art. He even has plastic wrap covering a fresh piece he had done yesterday by Nathan Kostechko in Los Angeles. Wilson’s been in town getting his knee looked at following a recent tweak and couldn’t leave without getting some work done by the acclaimed artist.

 
 
 

We’re at the Reno Room in Long Beach. It’s an old dive, and they say Charles Bukowski frequented it when he was living in nearby San Pedro, playing pool on the notoriously crooked table in the back. He liked the hours (Reno Room famously opens at 6 a.m. and doesn’t shut until 2 a.m.) that cater to the local longshoremen community servicing the port, along with your usual all-hours barflies. And us. We don’t look entirely out of place here.  

They recently fused a Mexican food spot called Cocorenos with Reno Room, joining two California institutions into one magical beacon of respite from the workaday world: dive bar and Mexican food, together at last. Wilson is wearing a black T-shirt and white denim with a freshly buzzed head, and he perks up every time a loud bike rips past the busy intersection outside. Because it’s located on the corner of East Broadway and Redondo Ave, it’s not uncommon to hear the rattle of a vintage Harley pulling into the alley out back. Wilson glances outside to get a peek at each one. 

 
 
 

“I crave margaritas, man,” he says, looking at the menu. “Where I live you can get beers off tap two minutes down the road, but no margis.” He speaks in a one-of-kind drawl, fusing a subtle lisp with a more “country” Australian accent than his surf pals. His voice comes to you in offbeat rhythms full of kindness.

“The states and California are crazy, man,” he adds. “The amount of culture around here. Motorcycles, surfing, art, music, cars. I love it.” Wilson’s an American-made motor man and just recently sold a signature green 1963 Chevy C10 truck that had become synonymous with him. 

Today, we’re not far from Scotty Stopnik’s Cycle Zombies shop in Huntington Beach, a place that’s inspired Wilson for years. He admits to peppering Stopnik with endless questions about bikes and even bought his first one — a  ’64 Harley panhead — from Stopnik.

 
 
 
 

“Thank fuck for social media,” he says. “One good thing about it: I had my blinders on being a surf rat my whole life, and I’ve been playing catchup on hobbies. Scotty has been an inspiration for me for a long time. His lifestyle is sick. Surfs every morning, skates, has his crew and his family all there building old Harleys. I follow him and learn a ton that way.” 

The TouchTunes machine — one of the modern updates adopted in the Reno Room — kicks up and Interpol’s “The Rover” comes on. Wilson orders the house margarita with a basket of chips and salsa. Our dark-eyed waitress asks about some of his tattoo work before walking away to get our drinks. He vibes with the music and says, “This song could be a really sick part in a surf video.”  

 
 
 
 

Filmmaker Kai Neville once told me he thought Chippa Wilson was the most recognized surfer he’s ever traveled with. Foreign shores, airports, bars, coffee shops and parking lots, Wilson catches the eye, and surfers all over the world have grown to obsess over his video parts. During filming for Neville’s movie Cluster, kids in the Canary Islands would follow the crew around to spots hoping for glimpses of him. Wilson’s run in Neville’s now-classic surf films — Lost Atlas, Dear Suburbia and Cluster — were an obvious fit and have become the standard to which all progression is held. His surfing was exactly what excited Neville about his generation and what he felt inspired to showcase. “Consistency is the thing with Chippa,” Neville says. “To land things as big and technical as he does with the consistency he has is unreal.” 

Wilson’s gold eyes (the late Andy Irons famously called him the Gold Lion) and tattoos do catch the eye, but his surfing is what keeps the jaws on the floor. His creativity and ability to tweak and manipulate his board in ways surfers have only dreamed of while maintaining his signature style has always been his point of differentiation in the water.

“He looks so good on a board,” says filmmaker Michael Cukr, who spent a lot of time following Wilson around before the pandemic, crashing with him for three months straight in Australia to film him surfing. “Nothing looks unnatural. And his whole vibe is a throwback; skaters like him, bikers like him, surfers love him.” But it wasn’t always like that. 

 
 
 
 

Wilson didn’t follow the same path many professional surfers do. He was a late bloomer and remains one of the most refreshing overnight success stories the surf industry has ever produced. In 2009, Wilson was surfing and working construction back home in Cabarita Beach, Australia — a sponsored local pro but not recognized much outside the town limits. Stab Magazine created a contest called “Little Weeds” that Wilson entered. The internet clip competition offered surfers, filmmakers and photographers the chance to submit their work to be voted on in one of the first successful online comps in the surf industry’s rush to figure out the internet. Wilson’s segment, edited by Riley Blakeway, was a tour de force of holy-shit proportions and is probably still one of the greatest discoveries of the internet age. He went from local ripper in Australia to international star with that clip nearly overnight. It led to a signature film in 2010 (Now), new sponsors — including one with Kustom shoes, which put him on the first Kustom Airstrike trip, a contest that put up $50,000 for the best air of the trip. Kai Neville was on that trip and remembers its being the turning point. “I knew after that trip he was one of the best in the world,” says Neville. “His technique was way beyond what I thought, and he stomped everything he tried.” 

 
 
 

Surfing had just seen Neville’s debut film Modern Collective shatter the old guard, launching a progression push that would consume the next decade of surfing. Wilson was quickly snatched up and put into the crew thanks to his technical aerial surfing, easygoing demeanor and throwback look of full-body tats, shaggy blonde locks and freckles. He quickly became a crowd favorite.

In the past, most surfers who injected skate tricks into their surfing did so at the expense of style or success rate — often ushering themselves into obscurity or tiny niche pockets of surfing. Wilson shattered that stereotype by doing tricks no one had seen before and did so with a style that was easy on the eyes.

“As a grom, I tried all this stuff and never pulled it much, which is why I did so bad at contests growing up,” he says. “I found doing shuv-its much easier than winning.” But his surfing drastically improved after that and his make-to-attempt ratio skyrocketed, while his aerial surfing became elite, freaking out and inspiring a generation of surfers along the way. 

During his first official magazine trip to France, Wilson tagged along with the legendary presence that is Nathan Fletcher — surfer, skater, snowboarder, motocross rider, icon — and the admiration was instantly mutual. Wilson paddled around the French beach breaks on that trip with all the big names of surfing who were in town to compete. And the part that freaked him out the most: They were all in awe of him. The late Andy Irons paddled right up to him on the first day he was there, saying, “Yeah, Chippa! The only dude I know with gold eyes!” The entire lineup, a who’s who of surfers including Irons, Dusty Payne, John John Florence and Jordy Smith all made sure to say what’s up to the most exciting addition to surfing in that time.  

 
 
 

A decade later, Wilson has appeared in every surf movie that matters, adding tricks and his approach to the pantheon of surf progression. While rehabbing the tweaked knee and wading his way through the pandemic years, Wilson posted up in Tasmania, the rural, often chilly and isolated Australian territory with his partner Brinkley Davies, a marine biologist and adventurer. They’ve got their dogs and a garage full of toys: Motorcycles, surfboards and all the odds and ends you can think of to keep him busy in the isolated space. “Brinkley keeps me young, man,” he says of his partner. “She’s always swimming with sharks and whales and seals. Always up to something. I just try to keep up now and tinker on the bikes when I can.” 

I ask him what got him into motorcycles, and he quickly lights up. “My old man has always been bike-oriented,” he says. “He was always sitting up late at night watching speedways and motocross, and I remember he had photos of himself when he was young on all the enduro trials bikes, ripping around, so that’s always been an interest and inspiration. I would have got into it earlier, but surfing took a pretty good chunk of my hobby life for many years.”

 
 
 

But now, with his home set up in Tasmania, a good decade of game-changing surfing in the can, and plenty of opportunity on the horizon, he’s focusing himself on the garage.

“My mate Coco put me on my first Harley Davidson panhead with a jockey shift,” he says. “He just told me, ‘Go for gold!’!’  and off I went down the road all jenky and all over the place, not skilled at all. It’s the weirdest way to ride, but I came back with the biggest smile on my face and got into building one of those straight away.” 

The bike, famously known as “Scorch,” is Wilson’s first moto-child. “It’s a ’54 panhead with a springer front end. It’s super mechanical and old school. The clutch rod is linked by an old rusty chain, it has a crazy sissy bar and looks like it might blow up beneath you, but it’s so sick. It’s my first Harley and definitely the one that got me hooked on riding.”

 
 
 
 

The Tasmanian landscape is vast and rural and old. It’s full of winding roads, lonely petrol stations and isolated nooks and crannies — the perfect place for riding and exploring. With a garage full of vehicles — from bikes to surfboards to trucks and jeeps — Wilson has plenty to tinker on as he prepares for the world to open back up. 

“Anything old, I’m drawn to,” he says, which makes me chuckle. It’s funny that one of the world’s most progressive surfers — a guy who’s spent his life living ahead of his time — has stopped in Tasmania to let us all catch up and dig into his obsessions from the past. He’s like the addition of a TouchTunes machine in an old bar. It doesn’t feel right until you learn how to make it work for you.

 
 
 
 

Back inside the Reno Room and into our second round of margaritas, Wilson whips out his phone and starts putting music on through the TouchTunes app as he tells me he’s recently bought his first new car.

“I just got a regular car the other day,” he says. “My first new car ever. I got a Jeep Gladiator, American, ‘ute’ type of thing. I can’t even work it yet, it’s too modern.” He smiles and finally makes his musical choice, and the TouchTunes fires up the classic Social Distortion tune called Telling Them. As it kicks in, I look over at the newly updated pool table, hoping to see the ghost of Bukowski stumbling around in the back, but I only see two college girls skipping class to drink margaritas and play pool. 

 
 

Things have changed here. You can get Mexican food, the pool table isn’t crooked anymore, and it requires quarters; the juke box is connected to the internet but somehow, if you squint your eyes and the song is right, you realize this place hasn’t changed a bit. The rare spot where the past, present and future all mingle together in a swirly modern vintage union that makes perfect sense. Sometimes it happens in a rural Tasmanian garage full of vintage bikes and progressive surfboards, and sometimes it happens on the corner of East Broadway and Redondo when Chippa Wilson is in town.