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Bruce Brown

The Endurance of On Any Sunday

Words by Brett Smith | Photos courtesy Bruce Brown Films


Bruce Brown was done telling stories. He had nothing left to say, and he asked us if we wanted to see something. Sitting on his front porch back in 2012, we realized the interview was over. Besides, the gnats were holding court in front of our faces, and Brown’s Australian shepherd, Rusty, was anxious to run around. Brown rose from a driftwood bench and motioned for us to follow him inside the house. He had something a couple of fellow gearheads and storytellers would love to see.

Wearing his usual long-sleeved denim shirt and jeans, Brown, a few months shy of his 75th birthday, shuffled down a hallway that was not unlike any typical corridor in a ranch-style home. Keep in mind, this house was north of Santa Barbara, California, and had a view of the Pacific Ocean. The walls were neutral, and the carpet was the color of beach sand. We walked past a plaque that read “Certificate of Nomination for Award,” official recognition that one of his documentaries had been nominated for an Oscar in 1972 (The Hellstrom Chronicle, a movie about insects potentially taking over the world, wound up winning the Academy Award that year). 

Nothing short of actually seeing them could have convinced us what was behind the double doors: hundreds of film reels from 1970 and 1971 in stacks eight high and on six shelves. A 6-foot-tall 1x4 braced the shelving up the middle so it didn’t collapse. “These are the originals,” Brown said of his now-legendary motorcycle film On Any Sunday. He said he kept them in his residence because he once lost a collection from another film in a storage unit fire. 

Scrawled in black marker, the labels — by then peeling and yellowing — indicated where the shoots took place. Some of the locations were unrecognizable to those familiar with the film. Not every shoot made it into the final 96-minute-long documentary.

It was a heavy sight to behold, especially in a world where media is no longer physical. Today it’s only data, ones and zeros inside a hard drive. That closet was a time capsule; more than 300 reels of raw film stacked floor to ceiling, documenting American motorcycle racing in the early 1970s, a truly halcyon era when bike sales were on the brink of exploding. Maybe Brown created the boom. Maybe it was coming regardless. A former Navy man who started surfing in the 1940s, Brown never took credit for his contributions to surfing and motorcycling, the sports he documented. He was humble, but deep down, he knew he had met his intentions. 

After his ninth surfing movie, he had wanted to do something different. The goal with On Any Sunday was similar to that of his most popular surf flick, The Endless Summer; he wanted to change the public’s perception of who motorcycle riders were. That’s why the early minutes of the movie include a scene with a clean-shaven man walking through San Francisco in a suit. That’s why the movie features a lanky yank in El Escorial, Spain, going through a six-day torture test to represent the United States of America. 

“The general perception was ‘Hell’s Angels, bad guys, losers, blah, blah, blah,’” he said. “That’s my favorite thing with Mert [Lawwill], is that his grandmother had never been to a motorcycle race, and they thought he was the black sheep of the family. She went to the theater and saw On Any Sunday, and when Mert came on, she stood up and went, ‘That’s my grandson!’ He went from zero to hero.”

Brown discovered motorcycles late in life. He started riding after making The Endless Summer. He went to Ascot Park for the popular Friday-night races with the same mental picture as the general public: that motorcyclists were all big and burly with nasty demeanors and looking like longshoremen. At Ascot, he experienced friendly, passionate people and a family atmosphere. He bought his first Husqvarna from a talented rider named Malcolm Smith, who worked at K&N Motorcycles at the time. 

“I figured that if I got a Husky, which is what he was riding, then I could ride like Malcolm,” Brown said. “Well, it turns out it wasn’t the bike, it was him [laughs].” Brown marveled at how fast Malcolm could tear down a bike when it needed to be repaired. 

Luckily for the motorcycle world, Brown wanted a break from making surf movies, and he floated the idea around to document racers and racing. For financing, he approached actor Steve McQueen, whom he didn’t know other than his general awareness that the highest-paid Hollywood star was a motorsports fanatic and weekend warrior motorcycle racer. 

“I said, ‘I want to do this movie about motorcycle racing.’ And he said, ‘Oh, cool. What do you want me to do?’ And I said, ‘Well, pay for it.’ He started laughing and said, ‘Hey man, I make movies; I don’t finance them.’ And then I said, ‘OK, then you can’t be in my movie.’ He started laughing. The next day he called me and said, ‘OK, let’s go for it.’ He was the one who put the money up to do it.” 

The Solar Productions film credit in the movie was Steve McQueen’s company. 

A great way to ignite an argument is to bring up the topic of who deserves the praise. In later interviews with Mert Lawwill and Malcolm Smith, they blamed Bruce Brown. Brown blamed Mert and Malcolm. Nobody wanted to take credit for On Any Sunday’s influence on motorcycling, still strong nearly 50 years past its release. Was it Malcolm’s diverse skillset and constant smile? Mert’s unflappability in a failed title defense? Or was the real hero of the movie Brown, the man who sparked the idea, assembled the characters, found the money and directed the film? Brown became aggravated when the subject of how Mert and Malcolm became legends was brought up at all. 

“They’re really good at what they did, and the movie showed it,” he said. “I always say they would have been that anyway. I just basically showed it as it happened. We didn’t make anything up. I don’t want to take credit for something like that. Go on to something else.” 

Malcolm wouldn’t let Brown off that easy. Although he admitted that people still approached him to say that he was the reason they started riding motorcycles, Malcolm was hesitant to accept that responsibility. “It isn’t me!” Malcolm said. “It’s Bruce Brown who did that. He’s the guy who could make people understand the thrill of it and the excitement of it. I was just one of the guys he used.”

When asked how the movie affected his life and career, he smiled and admitted that Husqvarna sales increased considerably. But it’s a little-known story that Malcolm almost said no to what became the biggest opportunity of his life. Luckily for him, Brown was a persistent producer. 

Six months passed after Brown told Malcolm that he was making a motorcycle movie, and he wanted Malcolm to appear in it. In that span, Malcolm had purchased the dealership he worked in. Now a business owner, he had much more responsibility. When Brown called to let Malcolm know about the shoot schedule, Malcolm said he couldn’t do it because he was overwhelmed with learning the financial side of running the business. Brown said he wasn’t starting for a couple of weeks, and that he would call back. 

Today, it’s unimaginable to think of someone else in that starring role, but Brown said Plan B didn’t exist. “I had never thought about it. I wanted Malcolm, and I always knew I was going to get him even if I had to cry.” 

Brown didn’t have to beg. In that two weeks, Malcolm determined on his own that it was something he needed to do. When Brown called back, Malcolm said he had his affairs in line and was ready for the first shoot. But there were still moments where Brown had to pry. Competitions like the International Six Days Trials and the Mexican (Baja) 1000 were events where Malcolm shined, but Brown wanted to see how truly good this man was. He asked him to come to the Widowmaker hill climb, which at the time had not been conquered. 

“Malcolm said, ‘Well, I really can’t leave the shop. How many days is it?’” Brown said.

“Three days,” Brown says Malcolm answered. “What do you make at the shop?”

“Oh, about $100 a day,” Malcolm said. 

“OK, then we’ll give you $300 to go to Salt Lake.”

Malcolm knew Brown was blanketing the country, shooting at motocross, desert and dirt track events as well as drag racing, ice racing and even sidecar. Although OAS filmed with Malcolm several times, he had no idea what was actually going to be used. Brown never told Malcolm that he was going to be one of the three main characters of the movie, along with Mert and McQueen. “I thought I was going to be two or three minutes and gone,” Malcolm said. 

Twenty-four minutes of the film includes Malcolm riding everything from desert events, trials, hill climb, the ISDT, a grand prix and “cow trailing.” The memorable final scenes with all three characters together were filmed in three locations: Baja Peninsula, Brown’s ranch in San Juan Capistrano, and Camp Pendleton, a Marine Corps Base Camp that sits on 17 miles of prime Pacific coastline north of San Diego. When Brown called the military to get into Pendleton, they told him, “No way.” When McQueen called, they said, “How’s tomorrow?”

The ending was part of Brown’s original plan before he shot a single frame of film. It was those moments — three buddies riding together, having fun — that fully represented why people ride motorcycles. Flanked by a movie star and the nation’s top professional motorcycle racer, Malcolm represented the rest of us. He was technically not a professional rider, and we wanted to think we were just like him. 

Realistically, we were the ones stuck in the mud bog at the Elsinore Grand Prix, but Malcolm gave us the impression we could all do it (he still does). 

When Malcolm saw the movie in the theater for the first time he was shocked, and it hit him that he almost said no to the project.  

“And that was the best decision that I ever made.” 

Mert was easy to cast. The 1969 AMA Grand National Dirt Track Champion, Mert’s title defense in 1970 was the primary part of his story. Mert wasn’t (and still isn’t) a particularly outgoing or extroverted man. He didn’t have the cocksure attitude of Gary Nixon, or the youthful spirit of Dave Aldana, but he was the number-one rider, and that title held a lot of weight. “We thought about Aldana, [Mark] Brelsford and different guys, but we thought, ‘Well, there’s a story there whether [Mert] wins it or loses it,’” Brown said. And when asked to participate, Mert just shrugged. 

“I was really narrow-minded at that time and only focused on just racing,” Mert said. “I had no idea who [Bruce Brown] was. He was just another guy, and if the movie turned out great, then that’s really cool. That pyramided into a much more gigantic thing that I ever could have imagined.”

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Because of his participation in the movie, Mert is forever 29 years old, the young man with the thick brown hair walking through San Francisco, looking like he just left a board meeting. He still lives in the same house in Tiburon, California, even though the entire neighborhood today is completely unrecognizable from the scenes in the film. The Lawwill home is surrounded by other dwellings that sell for seven figures and come with views of the Golden Gate Bridge. 

The garage where Mert tuned his Harley-Davidson is now a living room with a billiards table. Mert likes to point out the exact spot where, in the film, he closely examined his transmission’s gearing, searching for a way to shave weight and increase power. He has a new and bigger garage where he developed the first mountain bike suspension (he’s in the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame) and now builds prosthetics for amputees.

His wife, June, was pregnant in the early days of filming, and she wouldn’t allow Brown to film her because she “didn’t want to be pregnant forever.” June Lawwill, who died in the summer of 2018, may have been the only person to foreshadow the unending relevance of the movie. Mert was too busy trying to win another championship to give something like that much thought. 

Mert still gets phone calls from random fans. Some come in the middle of the night because the caller is on a different continent. On his birthday (September 25), his phone is particularly busy.

Six months younger, Malcolm was also 29 during the making of the film, and his favorite moments today are when children think he is Malcolm Smith’s grandfather, which happens when he meets kids in his shop or at dealer meetings. Unable to understand how the elder in front of them could possibly be the same man they saw in the movie their dad recently showed them, they deduce that this must be Malcolm’s grandfather. But they shake his hand and ask him to sign a hat, because he’s still pretty cool.

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Although he enjoyed the making of it, Malcolm never imagined a lifetime of recognition from the movie. He shakes lots of hands at gatherings and smiles when people give him the credit for convincing them to ride motorcycles. He still can’t believe the movie’s endurance. “They’re still selling the movie; kids are still watching it,” he said. “I really thought the movie, in a year, would be completely forgotten, shelved, and nobody would even remember it.”

When pressed for answers on why a decades-old motorcycle documentary still endures, why it still influences and inspires, and how it’s even still relevant, none of these men ever raised their hands. Brown might not have directly helped them win any championships or gold medals, but Mert and Malcolm became two of the greatest mononyms in motorsports history — just say the words “Mert” or “Malcolm,” and everyone knows to whom you’re referring. 

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Brown died in December 2017, nine days after his 80th birthday. He holds a special place in the surf and motorcycle industries (including their respective halls of fame), and his son Dana Brown will soon release a tribute documentary to his dad called Bruce Brown: A Life of Endless Summers. At the center of the movie is a road trip Brown took with his three children to visit as many of his old friends as he could. The film is due out in the summer of 2019. 

And the On Any Sunday film reels? They’re still in that closet, awaiting their own afterlife.

Hell On Wheels

Beers & Shit-Talking with Meatball

Interview by Greg Tomlinson | Photos by Brenden Lutes


Do you know Meatball? Perhaps you don’t know Jeffery Tulinius, aka “Meatball,” founder, proprietor and promoter of the Hell On Wheels Motorcycle Club, directly. But you know him. He’s that guy whom you can’t help but love. He makes, as he commonly says, “chicken soup out of chicken poop.”  He would loan you a twenty spot when he has only five. He’d fumble the ball on the goal line and somehow recover it, run the wrong way and score the winning point when the clock goes to zero. He’s been messing around with motorbikes for longer than he’d care to remember and is passionate about them, and even more passionate about the friends and good times that come with them. Yep, he’s a self-admitted goofball, enjoys a cold one and could play a little simpler than he is. Make no mistake: He’s both, but neither. He’s a kneeboarder, which is a third-class citizen in the cool-guy beach culture, but he’s proud of it. Yep, he’s the lead singer of his band, Smiling Face Down, but you might mistake him for a roadie. Not a studied, schooled mechanic or a prize-winning, hipster fabricator, but he knows more — and has probably forgotten more — about the old machines he loves to wrestle with than most. On that note, old Meaty was reluctantly featured as a builder, the leading man in the cultish movie/documentary Brittown, even though he wanted the movie to be about his friends. Hell, he’s on IMDb! He loves any kind of a race whether he’s in it or promoting it, or not. There always seems to be, as he puts it, “three cannons pointed at his head,” mostly self-inflicted — but he always squirts through, sometimes a little roughed up. You may not know Meatball, but you know the guy. Heart of gold.  Dare I say Eeyore? A ne’er-do-well in the most complimentary way.

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So, Meatball, you were Southern California born and raised?

No, not raised. When I was 10, we moved, which messed me up. My dad took a job at NASA, and we had to move to Virginia. It was rough.  But then we moved back to Huntington Beach the week before I started high school, and I didn’t have any friends.

You didn’t have friends?

Not a single soul. I walked into school as the new kid from Virginia, backwards as can be. 

What year was that?

’77, I think. My dad worked all the time, so I took my TL 125 and rode through the oil fields towing my surfboard in a wagon behind me. I bought the surfboard, and I didn’t even know what I was buying.  Turns out it was a kneeboard.

Did you fabricate the cart yourself?

I think I just towed a wagon with a piece of string, so if I stopped quickly that thing rode up my back. It wasn’t very good, but it got me through the oil fields every morning, and that’s how I learned to kneeboard.

There aren’t many things lower than being a kneeboarder… 

Boogie boarder, maybe. But even boogie boarders make more money [laughs].

Anyways, I went to high school and was on the surf team doing contests. I really just wanted to ride motorcycles, but I couldn’t because I couldn’t drive to get there. So in high school, I ended up kneeboarding instead. I was doing contests, and somehow, I ended up on the national surf team.  

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Did being a kneeboarder make you scrappy and fight for what you wanted to do?

Nah, I was just a goofball and I got lucky. That’s how everything is. I kind of wander into things and just end up places. 


So how’d you get into motorbikes?

Well, I was always into motorbikes, because my dad rode them. I just couldn’t go because he was always working, and I couldn’t drive. But then, once I had my license, it started taking off, and I just stuck with it. We had Bultacos and Triumphs and stuff.  I rode street bikes from age 16 on.

Shit, Hondas were cheap at that time, too.

Well, I just like Triumphs.  But my first bike was a Honda, and when I rode home my dad was like, “Where is your helmet?” and I was like “I’m not going to wear a helmet.  Why have cool hair if you’re going to wear a helmet?” 

Somehow, I eventually started collecting Triumphs and old cars. I don’t know how I did that.

Did you have money?

No, I didn’t have any money.

Then how did you do it?

Nobody wanted a Triumph back then.  Everyone rode Harleys and would look back and just see a bunch of smoke billowing from my bike.  I got into Triumphs because they were cheap. Then, later on, everybody started liking Triumphs. And I had been broken down so many times that I had learned how to work on them. So eventually I started a business fixing Triumphs after I got laid off from my suit-and-tie job.

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Wait, you wore a suit? 

Yeah, I rode my motorcycle in a suit. I worked in AutoCAD. I went to school to be an engineer, but I never finished. I was in engineering school to be on the surf team, and once I wasn’t on the surf team anymore, it was like, I don’t want to be going to school. That’s when I got a regular job.

How did you get the name Meatball? Because you’re not a fat dude; you’re tall and skinny.  

It was just, “Where’s that fuckin’ Meatball?” I was always lost. Usually in the bushes or drunk. I got the name because I was never where I was supposed to be.

What’s your favorite bike of all the bikes you’ve owned?

I think I gotta stick with the Triumph twins and BSA singles.

What is your favorite hairstyle?

You gotta have punk rock style.  Punk rock is where it’s at.

Have you ever been in a parade?

A parade lap.

What is beautiful to you?

A baby-blue Triumph twin. Maybe an old sports car. A nice wave. A string bikini.

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When did you start racing?

I started riding and racing in ’93. I was riding around Huntington and started racing in the desert, also motocross and dirt track. I was racing at Willow Springs a lot. Almost every weekend. It was hot and windy out there, and we lived on Keystone Lights and hotdogs. Then I started racing the scrambles in ’95. I rode a BSA single, a lot of Bultacos, and whatever was cheap. I just rode whatever was running at the time. I was racing a lot up until 2001, when I cracked my head, then I stopped.

You cracked your head? What do you mean?

I had a grand spectacular crash at Glen Helen and had brain hemorrhaging. I lost my memory for a month. So that was the end of racing for me.

How did you crash?

I don’t remember; I lost my memory [laughs]. They hauled me off in the meat wagon.

So was that around the time you opened up your own shop in Costa Mesa?

No, I opened up the shop in ’97. We were racing and wrenched on bikes a little, but it was mainly partying. I’d get an eviction notice every Monday after the weekend. 

How did you open up a shop if you didn’t have money?

I made just enough.  It was just me, and I didn’t have kids or anything.

What else did you do out of that shop?

We were selling jerseys when we started racing, and that’s when the striped jerseys first came out. Black Flys was big back then, and they would give us goggles and screen my shirts for me. That’s about the time when the name “Hell On Wheels” came about.  I don’t even know where it came from, but it was on the back of all our jackets.

So were you trying to be outlaws with the jail-striped jerseys, and “Hell On Wheels” on the back of your jackets?

I don’t know if I was trying to be an outlaw; we were just partying. We were having a good time. When we would go to the races we would bring 20 or 30 people, and bring our own bar, so after the races we could have a good time.

So, essentially, “Hell On Wheels” became a combination of wrenching on bikes, slinging merchandise and whatever kind of stuff you could sell, and also promoting races and events?

Yeah. I like to get people together, but it’s all about the party. That’s how it’s always been. At our races everyone pats me on the back and says, “That was a great race.” But it’s really not me — it’s my buddies and the people that come; they put on a good show. They’re all nice, and it always turns out good. It’s always been like that. It’s always been about the people. 

Have you ever been married?

Yeah, that didn’t work out so well … That was growing up, and it wasn’t in my cards to grow up. Growing up was not good to me.

After parting ways with the old lady, you took the plunge to open up a retail shop in Santa Ana, right? All the while you’ve got two kids that you’re raising. How was it juggling kids while trying to run the shop?

Kids are the easy part. The shop was a nightmare. Being married to a building wasn’t for me, either. That’s why they call me Meatball, remember? I’m never where I am supposed to be. So the retail thing, being open to the public, didn’t work too good. You’ve got to be organized and have it together, and I wasn’t together.

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So you moved to a new little spot in Costa Mesa?

Yeah, it’s like a junkyard. An indoor junkyard. It’s a better situation for me because it’s more of a hideout where I can go to get things done. But really, the only time I seem to get my shit together is at the racetrack when I’m hosting races. And that’s just because I want everybody to have a good time. That’s the most organized I get. I do my best, and people have fun.

It’s a good community event.

It’s just good fun, is what it is. And nice people. And nobody is worried about who got last or first; everyone’s just having a good time.

Tell me more about the Hell On Wheels races.

I throw some races on the big TT truck track, and we race some scrambles tracks and some dirt tracks. We have a hill climb, too. When you get 8 or 10 Triumphs on the starting line, it sounds great. Not only does it get the people stoked because the bikes are revving their hearts, but also the riders are stoked. There’s people-watching; there’s an interaction like when you’re at a rock show and everybody’s screaming and yelling. Shit, when everybody’s screaming and taking their tops off, pretty soon you’re playing some mean rock ’n’ roll. It’s the same with racing. They’re probably not the best riders, but they have huge hearts, so they put on a great show. I know most of the guys riding, and I can tell you they are all riding over their heads trying to win a $10 trophy. It’s great stuff.

What do you enjoy competing in most?

Well, I started out dirt tracking because it’s easy, like kneeboarding. You just go around in a circle. But, man, if I could ride motocross good and was in shape and my arms didn’t fall off because I’m tired, I guess motocross is the most fun. I always liked motocross as a kid, but did dirt track because it’s easy. Road racing is fun, too; it’s just expensive and you never get to do it. 

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So what’s next for the races?

Retirement races for retirement folks. Keep it common-man’s racing and not try to compete with all the big-shot races. Keep it fun. We need to bring that back, where everybody gets along and everybody likes everybody.

Do you watch Supercross or any other professional racing?

I like all that stuff, but it’s hard to find the damn races.

What do you mean? They are on TV. Do you have a TV?

I don’t, actually. We go to Hooters and watch the races. I like it; it’s just harder to follow when you have to go somewhere to watch them.

What are you best at?

Going to bars and telling stories. I’ve done a lot of stuff.

Describe your bedroom.

I’ve been on the couch. You know how old people sleep on the couch? I’ve been on the couch a lot lately.

What makes you angry?

I don’t get angry. Only Meatball makes me angry when I do dumb stuff. And that happens all the time.

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Have you ever been in a fight?

Yeah, I get beat up a lot.  And in front of a whole bunch of people.

What’s your most prized possession?

My kids, of course.

What’s your favorite food?
I like chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.

What’s your favorite movie?

I love On Any Sunday, but that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid movie is kinda cute.

Did you ever wet your pants?

I shit myself at the bar one time. Threw my underwear in the trash and sat back down at the bar.


Have you ever been to jail?

Yeah, I’ve been to jail.  Wearing a woman’s pink sweater and a flask in my back pocket.

Out of everything you’ve done, what has been the best experience so far?

Everything that I’ve done has been great except for growing up. The growing-up thing sucks. But my kids are my best trophies. They are incredible.

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What do you like most about motorcycles?

When you start up a bike and it makes you smile. And when you’re hot and dusty and drink a beer, you smile — you know? It’s kind of a simple thing. 

I want to start riding more, but I’m worried about getting hurt. I’m 98 years old, so ...

You’re not 98.

I would come apart like a cooked chicken.

So what’s next for Meatball?

I think retirement. I’m going to scale everything back.

You ain’t that old.

I gotta retire and get the kids into college. I gotta get my mess cleaned up. 

How are you going to do that?

I don’t know.

In closing, what are your words to live by?

You only live once, so just do what you want to do, and hopefully, get lucky. I’ve just kind of got lucky with everything I’ve done. Keep good friends and just have fun.

Abîme.

Photography by Thibaut Gravet


“Never” was not an option for Steven Frossard.  Even after a horrific accident left him with no sensation in his legs and doctors told him that he may never walk again. 

Mantua, a lakefront town in the Lombardy region of Italy, is where the French native’s fate shifted so radically a few summers ago. In late August 2015, spectators held their collective breath while they watched Steven Frossard get violently thrown from his bike.  Next came the sharp sound of helicopter blades in the wind as he was airlifted to the nearest hospital. With bones crushed, ligaments torn, and a future shattered in a matter of seconds, Frossard was paralyzed from the waist down. The resulting stillness was a stark contrast to the speed he had always known. 

Despite the lack of an optimistic prognosis, the young athlete refused to let the dust settle on a promising career and lifelong passion.  He found that the pain was a welcome reminder of what was at stake. In the year following his misfortune, an unscathed spirit fueled his grueling journey towards recovery.  Stiff, fibrosis tissue now fills the shallow craters dug by the crash and the surgeon’s scalpel.  Today, Steven Frossard has beaten the odds: He is riding again. Decidedly reminding the world, and himself, that his scars are not barriers, but new roads to explore.

The Good Old Days Are Now

Taking it Back to Simpler Times

Words by Ben Giese | Photos by Aaron Brimhall


Growing up in a motocross family was a childhood unlike any other. We spent our weekends sitting in the dirt and launching our bodies through the air to see if we could get around the racetrack faster than our friends. It’s kind of weird when you think about it like that. Sure, there was the occasional blood and broken bones, but most of the time those weekends were filled with nothing but laughs and smiles. Saturday night’s pre-race campfires were a gathering of friends old and new. I think of them as our chosen family — a group of crazy humans who found pleasure living the same strange life as we did. We lived off Gatorade and brown-bag sandwiches, and would come home from the races caked in sweat and dirt — sunburnt and exhausted in the best way. Those endless and unforgettable weekends brought us all closer together, and I feel fortunate that we all got to share that period of life doing something we love.

Eventually, though, we all grew older, and the passage of time led us all on our individual journeys to adulthood. Some of us moved away for school or work, and some of us don’t even ride anymore. Reality set in for all of us, and the responsibilities of adulthood transformed those gasoline-fueled weekends with friends and family into nothing but a fond memory.

Since those glory days have passed, I’ve spent a decade pursuing my career, chasing the dream of paying rent by capitalizing on my love for motorcycles. It’s been great to stay involved in the motorcycle industry after my racing years were over and to see things come full circle like they have. But as each year passes and META continues to grow, I’ve found that I’m spending less and less time behind a set of handlebars, and more and more time behind a computer screen. Lately it has gotten to a point of frustration, and I’m realizing that chasing this “dream” means nothing if I don’t have time to stop and enjoy it once in a while. 

With that realization, I called up my dad and brother to plan out a much-needed weekend getaway in the Utah desert. My dad also works a demanding and stressful job, and my brother Mike was in the midst of a job change and planning his move to Washington. I think we each needed this trip in our own way, and it might be our last chance to get together and do something like this for a while. I was really looking forward to getting off-grid, with no cell service and no distractions to relive those good old days.

Dad and I woke up at 5 a.m., loaded the Husqvarna FX 350 and FC 450 into our Toyota Tundra, brewed some coffee and hit the road well before the sun came up.  The drive from Denver to our destination is about 7 hours, so we had plenty of time to catch up and tell stories. Road trips are always fun, but this one was extra special. It reminded me of the dozens of trips we took as a family driving back and forth across the country to one motocross race or another. I think those experiences as kids really instilled a love for travel and a sense of wanderlust in Mike and me. 

Mike lived in Park City, Utah, at the time, so he would just meet up with us at a roadside destination in the middle of nowhere, and we would caravan out to the riding spot. My dad jumped in the car with Mike for the remainder of the drive, and I would occasionally look in the rearview mirror to see him hanging out the window with his camera snapping photos. Ever since I can remember, he’s had a camera in his hand documenting our adventures. I chuckled to myself and thought “some things never change.” 

As we pulled into our destination just outside of Hanksville, Utah, the stoke was at an all-time high.  No matter how many times I’ve been here, the size and beauty of this landscape always takes my breath away. “Swingarm City” — more commonly referred to as “Caineville” by old-school riders — is a legendary riding spot. I first came here in 2003 on a YZ85, and have been watching VHS tapes of the pros riding out here since the ’90s. Towering rock faces and canyons surround miles of steep ridgelines and valleys. This place is humbling and has a way of making you feel small. The massive moto-playground features endless jumps, berms, hill climbs and everything in between. The only limit to possibilities out here is your imagination.

Mike and I each individually hadn’t ridden dirt bikes in over a year, and we hadn’t ridden together in several years. It’s a shame, really, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. I figured we would be a bit rusty, and it might take some time to get back into the flow of riding together. But as soon as we geared up and started the bikes, it was like we never had skipped a beat. We followed each other up massive hills, balancing across steep ridgelines and floating side by side over jumps. The decades we’ve spent riding together quickly became obvious. 

We spent the next 8 hours or so ripping around and having as much fun as ever, stopping only occasionally to fill up on gas and drink some water. The afternoon flew by as Mike and I blasted berms into the sunset. We returned to camp to find my dad with a fire blazing and a cast-iron skillet cooking up some jambalaya. Mike and I took off our gear, and we all sat around the fire eating and telling stories, reflecting on a day we will never forget.

My blistered hands are the trademarks of a day well spent. And much like our childhood weekends at the races, the memories made here this weekend will live within each of us forever. This trip has been a reminder to slow down and enjoy the little things. It makes me smile to know those days are not gone. The good old days are now.

James Crowe

The Reality of Freedom

Words by Jann Eberharter | Photo by Paris Gore


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Two years ago, James Crowe settled into a little slice of paradise. It’s maybe a quarter of an acre and had two small structures on it at the time. One was a derelict prefabricated house that he wasted no time in tearing down. The second was a garage with a small apartment above that needed a lot of work. Naturally, he rebuilt the garage first, turning it into a full-on machine shop, complete with a lathe, mill, CNC machine, frame jig and welding table. 

His priorities are as visible in his remodeling choices as they are out of his upstairs living room window, which offers a stunning view of Mount Currie, the pride of Pemberton, British Columbia. He’s only half an hour away from Whistler, the resort town where he grew up and the path that got him here has been one of figuring out what he wanted to prioritize in life, and doing just that. 

Crowe is a mellow dude. He carries his lanky stature with confidence and speaks softly with thought. He usually has a bit of leftover grease on his hands, still rocks a flip phone, and, at 32 years old, has a few gray hairs beginning to make an appearance in his light-brown hair.

First and foremost, he’s a craftsman. His skill, style and creativity are visible in the custom motorcycles he’s built over the years, the parts he machines and even the tools that hang on the wall. Scribbled on one of his tool boxes is an Ed Roth quote:

“Imagination is the limit and speed is the need. Everything else is irrelevant.” 

Making ends meet solely as an artist can prove challenging though. One pervading trend throughout Crowe’s career has been his ability and willingness to put his head down and grind, focusing on his end goal. He did that for two years in Portland, Oregon, working two full-time jobs. He worked on the oil rigs in Saskatchewan for a summer before embarking on a 10-month journey to South America and back on a custom-built bike. And a job as a welder for the Municipality of Whistler brought him home to British Columbia, somewhere he could settle down and enjoy the surrounding mountains—and the ability to clock out at the end of a long day.

Growing up in Whistler, Crowe naturally took to the mountains. His father groomed the municipality’s cross-country ski trails in the winter, while his mother landscaped in the summers, and between the two, he had plenty of opportunities to chase the seasons. He raced cross-county mountain bikes during high school and skied in the winters. But nothing compared to when he first dug into a combustion engine. His parents gave him a 1990 Mazda pickup two years before he could even legally drive and the truck introduced him to a whole new world.

“I loved all the outdoors things growing up,” he says. “But when I discovered fabrication and welding, that was kind of what I discovered for myself and there wasn’t any of that happening here. I realized really early that making things from scratch with metal, whatever it might be, was where my passion was.”

Once out of high school, he continued chasing that passion. Crowe found a small trade school in Laramie, Wyoming that had a one-year concentrated program for sheet-metal shaping and chassis fabrication. It was exactly what he was looking for. He learned to weld and committed himself wholeheartedly to getting everything out of the experience he could. 

“All of a sudden I was in this new scene with all the tools and everything that I ever dreamed of, and the shops and the cars and the instructors,” Crowe says. “I was loving life.”

His ultimate project at school was a 1958 GMC pickup that he rebuilt. It wasn’t quite done by the time he graduated, so he lived out of a storage unit while making the final modifications. From there, he drove straight to Portland, where he’d received a job offer at a high-end restoration shop. It was there, at Steve’s Auto Restoration, that Crowe began tinkering with motorcycles.

As most mechanics do, he’d accumulated a lot of stuff, including an old Ford Model T. To make ends meet, he moved out of his apartment and into his Volkswagen Bus, renting a garage that soon became too packed to even work on anything. He sold it all and bought three XS 650s, which together would, he hoped, make one working bike.

“Once I got the bike running and once I actually started riding motorcycles, it was on,” Crowe says. “Nothing else really mattered at that point; it was just that feeling of what a bike gives you—it’s amazing.”

This was perhaps the first chapter of Crowe’s all-out working binge. He’d grind at Steve’s during the day and then commute across the Columbia River to Vancouver, Washington for a night job at another fabrication shop. Who knows when—or if—he slept. He took his vacation time to ride to Bonneville Speed Week, where he was in full company of fellow motorheads and got a taste of the open road and sleeping under the stars.

Soon after, Crowe and his best friend Jordan Hufnagel rented warehouse space in Portland where they began to assemble their own shop and a space where they could create whatever they wanted. This was after the Great Recession hit in 2008, and Crowe was able to buy various heavy duty machinery (thanks to his two jobs) that came up for sale. Much of the collection now occupies his shop in Pemberton.

“The motorcycle scene was really taking off at that time and I got really lucky to just meet the right people at an early time,” he says. “There was all this momentum growing to where all the sudden everybody wanted motorcycles.”

It was at this time that he started machining parts and operating under the moniker Crowe Metal Co. He designed and produced custom handlebars, levers, lights and even reinforced frames. He built up a custom BMW R series camper cruiser and CB 750 that caught the eye of enthusiasts all over. The bikes are works of art that also happen to cruise at 70 miles per hour, a visible extension of Crowe’s style and interpretation of what a motorcycle should be.

Being pent up in a workshop results in some impressive productivity, but it also leads to some wild ideas. Sometime during this phase, perhaps in the early hours of the morning, or over a few beers (probably both), Crowe and Hufnagel dreamed up the idea of heading south. Both feeling a little burnt out on working all the time and still being broke — and with a couple of XR 600s in the garage — they decided they needed to hit the road. Logically, in 2011, they set their sights on South America, perhaps the longest possible continual ride from Portland. 

“Often, it’s more about building the bikes than actually riding them,” Crowe says. “But the trips test the build.” 

And test them they did. Crowe took a year to finish up his businesses in Portland before heading to Saskatchewan, where he spent the summer working on an oil rig. He returned with relentless determination and plenty of time to prepare their bikes for the journey, reinforcing the sub frames, expanding the gas tanks, increasing gear capacity and minimizing breakability. Then, they spent the better part of a year riding dirt roads and mountain passes to the southern tip of Patagonia.

“You go where the road takes you,” Crowe says. “You’re kind of heading south, but you’re trying to ride as much dirt as possible, so you’re trying to follow routes you don’t know much about. At the end of the day, all the amazing memories I have are from the little tiny towns when we were lost and the places we got to go that had no significance [on the map].”

An experience like that—seeing the world firsthand—is enough to make anyone think about what really matters.

For Crowe, it was definitely motorcycles, but also the luxuries of the mountains and a place where he could craft and create with metal. 

During the trip, he and Hufnagel established West America, a brand of sorts that embodied their lifestyle and travels. They sold gear to offset their travel costs, connecting with a following who lived vicariously through their photos and frequent updates. When he returned to Portland after the trip, Crowe tried to keep the West America dream alive through travel opportunities and commissioned fabrications.

He went on a two week bike-packing trip to Bolivia and built custom bikes for brands, but all the while felt the lack of authenticity that they had when documenting their riding in South America. He doesn’t mind admitting that he overcommitted himself, and the stress of trying to follow through on everything took a toll.

“It was a huge learning experience of what I actually cared about, which is making things with my hands,” Crowe says. “I love photography and I love storytelling, but not for other people. When I came back, I thought that I could live this fairytale life of building motorcycles and traveling and balancing those two things. The reality is, to do something genuine takes genuine time and if you spread yourself too thin, then pretty soon everything sucks—something’s getting sacrificed.”

For Crowe, one of those sacrifices was his marriage. It was a tempestuous few years, and in 2015 he headed home to Whistler, where he was offered a full-time heavy duty welding job for the municipality. In many ways, the move was contrary to so much in his life up to this point in time—fixed hours and upper management had never been his style. Not long after, he migrated north to Pemberton, where he plans to be indefinitely.

On a different level though, accepting the job was what Crowe needed to do at the time, a resolution that he’s equally familiar with. Just like working around the clock in Portland, or on the oil rigs of Saskatchewan, the motive of this job was in how it would set him up for the future. He figured out his priorities and put them first. 

“It was something I avoided my whole life,” Crowe says. “Getting a nine-to-five, that was like, ‘The world’s going to end if I have to get a real job.’ But the reality is, the last two years, I’ve never had more freedom.” 

His machine shop hadn’t been assembled since the Portland days, but now it’s fully complete and meticulously clean (although that might change), ready to churn raw steel into whatever beautiful piece of art Crowe decides. Orders continue to trickle in for the pieces he designed to take those BMW R series bikes to the next level and he’s happy to indulge in some architectural fabrication for contractors in the Pemberton Valley.

A short ride north of his spot delivers unreal opportunities for backcountry missions on his XR, while a few minutes’ pedal brings Crowe to the base of Pemberton’s venerated mountain bike trails, which he rides regularly on his Chromag hardtail. In the winter, he’s a short sled mission away from multiple backcountry skiing stashes.

Here, Crowe has found a balance in his priorities, one that clocks 40 hours a week and is far from the backroads of South America, but still delivers genuine time. It’s a place where he’s got his machines and his mountains, and together they provide the good life.

The Mint 400

Return of the Bikes

Words by Bill Bryant | Photos courtesy Mint 400


“There he goes. One of god’s own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.”

Hunter S. Thompson, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas

Desert racing is a wildly enigmatic sport generally associated with Fast Guys, Rich Guys and Dumb Guys. If you’re going to try it, you just gotta figure out which one you are gonna be. The endurance required is the long-format sort. It’s not the skills that win a Supercross, or that get one through the harsh terrain encountered in this kind of racing; it’s the thousands of micro-decisions that happen over hours and hours of riding that make the difference. 

Part of the charm is this — the only qualifications required are that your machine and helmet pass tech, and that you can afford the entry fee. Prep your bike or buggy properly; have your logistics, fuel and navigation wired tightly; and you’ve got a chance of success. This sport was built on the backs of hearty individuals who did their best work hundreds of miles away from other humans. You’ve got to love it unconditionally, because it does not love you back. The desert can smell arrogance miles away and takes crafty pride in humbling the richest and most talented riders, no matter their previous successes or accomplishments in other arenas. 

The origins of desert racing can be traced back to 1962, with Dave Ekins (Bud’s brother) and Billy Robertson Jr. These two legendary pioneers traversed the then-unpaved Mexican Federal Highway 1 for 950 miles, from Tijuana to La Paz, on Honda CL72 Scramblers as a publicity stunt for American Honda. Thirty-nine hours, 56 minutes after they started, a new form of racing had been born, and it was a filthy little underdog of a baby with mischief in its bloodshot eyes. Dune buggies and modified 4x4s soon followed, and a culture of desert rats speeding through the deep ruts and rocky traverses of the Southwest U.S. and Mexico has been constantly evolving ever since. 

The Mint 400, also known as “The Great American Off-Road Race,” first ran in 1968 and was shuttered after a twenty-year run, when the hotel it was named after was sold. Resurrected in 2008, it came back with a festive bang, and has truly grown into its nickname. A mind-blowing parade of race cars down the Las Vegas strip and two days of partying with racers, vendors and spectators on Freemont Street has only grown the festive atmosphere, while designated pits, restricted viewing areas and heavy-handed involvement from the BLM has morphed the event into a modern-day spectacle of off-road racing, all while making it safer for everyone involved. 

2019 was the first time motorcycles had been invited since 1976. The scariest aspect of racing on two wheels is the thought of a Trophy truck barreling through the choking dust directly behind you. It is a very real threat — and not one to be taken lightly. The Mint 400 organizers fixed this by putting the bikes on the course Saturday morning, followed by the vintage cars and side-by-side classes later that afternoon. Modern bikes did three 85-mile laps, and the vintage bikes (including a sick XR500 side-hack), along with the half-dozen interlopers on Harleys, were required to finish just two. Once the cars got on the course, any bike still moving was pulled off at the next checkpoint and considered a DNF. The big boys in Trophy Trucks and unlimited buggies didn’t race until the following day. Not mixing two-wheelers with cages was an upgrade in safety that no one complained about. 

The Gnarlys on Harleys were a race inside a race. Inappropriate as they were, their performance shocked not only spectators and fellow racers, but the riders themselves. Arnie Wells from Idaho was one of the only guys who had ever been to an actual desert race. A pillow freshly strapped to the seat of his mostly stock Sportster on lap two spoke legions about his experience that day. The team of combat veterans known as Warrior Built Racing has some race experience in Baja on bikes and in their Class 11 Volkswagen. They had the audacity to attempt the Mint 400 on an Ironhead Sportster. Ironheads are notorious for not making it home from the bar, let alone finishing a grueling race like this. Fueled by tenacity and passion, it still wasn’t quite enough to get them across the finish line. 

Another outsider, Doug Karlson, had ridden a dirt bike only a few times, and had never even tried his Harley in the dirt. What he lacked in experience, he made up for with an infectiously positive attitude and a sense of humor that didn’t quit, even when his body wanted to. Mark “The Rusty Butcher” Atkins and teammate Mikey “Virus” Hill, along with BMX Pro Barry Nobles, have serious skills on two wheels, no matter the bike or conditions. Mark was plagued with mechanical issues and rode about half a lap while missing the foot peg on one side of his bike, after it ripped out of the stock mounts. 

Improvised mechanical fixes, long the staple of off-roading, got him back on the course several times, but it made his first lap time slow enough that he was pulled at a check point somewhere on lap two and sent packing. Barry and Virus swore to stick together and “just finish” but couldn’t stifle their competitive instincts. What was supposed to be a fun, let’s-just-make-it-the-whole-way vibe turned into a real battle for first place as lap two progressed. Both riders hammered their 500-pound-plus machines all the way to the podium with no real mechanical difficulties, short of losing gear and quite a few get-offs. In the end, Barry made it to the finish line and quickly exclaimed “I’m the first Harley, right?!” Not long after that, Mikey pulled in, number plate and headlight dangling by a zip tie and mumbled something like, “I thought I had the fucker!” 

That’s racing. No matter how you start out, you still want to win. 

After the champagne was popped, interviews were given and the guys regrouped, the day’s battle was relived a few times, and the toxic seed that is desert racing took root in these six riders. If Harleys can battle it out in the Hooligan flat-track courses across the country, why can’t they start competing in desert races, too? The days are brutally long and the rewards are few, but the smiles per gallon are impossible to quantify. 

Knowing the competitive nature of this crew, the bikes will get prepped better, training and testing will ensue and another generation of reckless weirdos will do their best to hurtle themselves across a desert on bikes that were never intended for it. Dave, Billy — and even old H.S. Thompson — would be proud. 

Routeless 395

Connecting the Dots from Past to Present

A Film by Ian Beaudoux | Words & Photos by Heidi Zumbrun


Ever since 2014, Heath Pinter (X Games athlete and professional car/motorcycle builder) and Ian Beaudoux (filmmaker) have been documenting their travels together, creating a film project called ROUTELESS.

Go left instead of right … always the long route.  For years Pinter and Beaudoux have been riding motorcycles, vintage roadsters, drag racing, meeting up with friends and doing cool shit, always with a destination but taking the road less traveled. As they see it, the idea is very basic, “grab your buddy, ride your motorcycle and check shit out — it’s what people should do, and we’re just doing what we wanna do.”  And what they want to do now is revisit the route that ties all of their history together: a well-known Highway 395.

To Ian and Heath, this project is a slightly different take on their past journeys. Instead of aiming toward an event or people to interview, this was an opportunity to revisit the road that links it all together for them, connecting Southern California to their roots in South Lake Tahoe, where they met snowboarding at the age of 18. Over the years, Ian and Heath have probably traveled Highway 395 more than a hundred times going from sea level to 10,000 feet, connecting the dots of the past to the present. Highway 395 is the lifeline to how it all began for these two, and for six days, I followed them riding up the backroads, revisiting a road that has a rich history for California, combining two of their favorite passions: motorcycles and snowboarding in the Sierra Nevadas.

As with most of their trips, this one begins in the garage. Two freshly built dual-sport Harley-Davidsons with side-mounted snowboards — one 2010 scrambler built out by the talented Aki Sakomoto from Hog Killers, and one 2003 street tracker customized by Heath, both rigged with snowboard racks built and designed by Heath — rolling out for their first rides from Long Beach to Mammoth Mountain via the most off-the-beaten-track dirt roads as possible and filming along the way. 

Here is my photo diary following these two guys out riding on the open road, signifying 20 years of adventures and projects together.